Hennie said:
IMO this aspect - mounting in the walls - would only be a marginal aspect, the far larger being the loudspeaker and room designs themselves. If the speakers are not right, mounting them in the walls isn't going to help. And getting the room right reflection and absorption wise is the greater effect. You need lots of LF absorption with little HF absorption, except behind the speakers. Get the room right, with the right speakers (and multiple subs) and it won't matter much if the speakers are mounted in the wall or not.
I read this thread up till the Frank Lloyd Wright bit, then came back on a while later and saw your waveguide's picture which threw me off so I read the pages in between then and now quickly.
I'll go back again. So I'm assuming as I was before that the silver part is the throat which looks circular that becomes elliptical as it goes on.
You could just say whether the throat was circular or not, you know
Thanks for taking the trouble anyway, I just don't have brilliant eyesight.
I'll go back again. So I'm assuming as I was before that the silver part is the throat which looks circular that becomes elliptical as it goes on.
You could just say whether the throat was circular or not, you know
Thanks for taking the trouble anyway, I just don't have brilliant eyesight.
My speakers are 450mm from the corner of the room, toeing in around 45 degrees but there is quite a bit of clutter around the back of them. They are 640mm off the ground and the bottom of the waveguide/top of the 10" driver is about ear height. The back wall is around 4m away and I have the lounge suite, listening position 300mm off the back wall, which has a big window in it.
If I raise them another 600mm they will be free of clutter but there will be a window behind them. Is it better to have the "clutter" absorbing reflections and the middle of the speaker at ear height or to raise them up and maybe angle them down say 10 degrees but to have the hard, reflective surface of glass behind them? Reason why I ask is It's not easy to test them without having to make new stands up.
col.
If I raise them another 600mm they will be free of clutter but there will be a window behind them. Is it better to have the "clutter" absorbing reflections and the middle of the speaker at ear height or to raise them up and maybe angle them down say 10 degrees but to have the hard, reflective surface of glass behind them? Reason why I ask is It's not easy to test them without having to make new stands up.
col.
gedlee said:
You should have heard the system I had in my Accord coupe. If the Summas are a "ten", I'd say it was about a seven. While a good home system was superior, it was better than anything I'd ever heard in a car, with the exception of *maybe* 2 or 3 cars.
Documented here:
http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=62789
alexclaber said:
BMS makes a tiny compression driver which is almost unique - it's actually *smaller* than a dome tweeter!
It's a very attractive driver for DIY projects where you're not using a giant waveguide. If you're using a 15" or a 12" waveguide you'll need a bigger compression driver, like the B&C that Earl's using.
But if you're using a smaller waveguide, the BMS is very attractive.
I forget the model name - it's their smallest neo compression driver.
Do you mean the BMS-4540? I used them in my last system with the JBL PT waveguides. They are very nice but they don't cross very low. Recommended crossover is 1.9khz
http://www.minihub.org/~colren/speakahs/minirigV6/bms-4540nd.pdf
col.
http://www.minihub.org/~colren/speakahs/minirigV6/bms-4540nd.pdf
col.
Looking at the FR chart in the datasheet, it seems extend well below 1kHz (800Hz or so).
So I guess the 1900Hz xover recommendation is to maintain a safe operation under that 60W rated power. However, who is going to use a compression driver with 114dB sensitivity at continuous 60W in a home audio application?
So I guess the 1900Hz xover recommendation is to maintain a safe operation under that 60W rated power. However, who is going to use a compression driver with 114dB sensitivity at continuous 60W in a home audio application?
yeah, I was using the BMS-4540 in a mobile sound system that I used to do house parties with, so wanted to stick to the recommended crossover. I had so many people complementing me on the sound of that system.
Had to sell it though, ran low on money and got fed up humping the thing around. I should have worked out a way to keep the compression drivers but it wasn't a priority at the time.
I'm quite happy with this pair of B&C DE10 though on the dayton waveguide with a bit of Earls foam. They sound great! and they were MUCH cheaper. I'm trying to work out how to do some some nice measurements, when I do I'll stick up some graphs.
col.
Had to sell it though, ran low on money and got fed up humping the thing around. I should have worked out a way to keep the compression drivers but it wasn't a priority at the time.
I'm quite happy with this pair of B&C DE10 though on the dayton waveguide with a bit of Earls foam. They sound great! and they were MUCH cheaper. I'm trying to work out how to do some some nice measurements, when I do I'll stick up some graphs.
col.
Hennie said:
In a compression driver the diaphragm shape is not a factor if the phase plug is done right. They all end up with a "flat" wavefront in the throat aperature. I actually like the idea of an annular diaphragm, it can be very effective, but I don't like two diaphragms in one device. There is no way to make this work right. But the BMS drivers are just too expensive for me.
