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GB Thread for Salas SSLV1.1 BiB shunt reg

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Joined 2006
Paid Member
There is no price for the bib board's in the spreadsheet. I could a couple so...

Hi there.
I actually have these boards and minikits in stock right now.
The board is 25.00 (includes two + and one - rail board)
The minikits are 15.00 each.

Private Message Me if you are interested in these right now. Otherwise they will be available at end of next GB cycle.
 
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Joined 2006
Paid Member
The current GB for all Salas boards end of 12/3/2017.
I will be sending out private messages to all those on the spreadsheet with payment instructions, so I can send you an invoice.
If you are not on the spreadsheet, please sign up then send me a private message.
After the Group buy closes and boards are ordered, it should be between 4-6 weeks typically for me to get the boards and kits ready, and then to ship them out across the world.
Let me know if there are any questions.

Tea
 
Ok, a follow up to my previous question. I set DC IN (is this supposed to be AC in?) to 37V, V out to 30V, load consumption to 300mA (because on each side of the Dynahi, there are two stages which take 300mA each), Constant Current to 500mA as recommended and I left everything else as normal. Is this the right way to use the calculator? Do I also need to input a value for R103 in order to make R105 require a lower resistance?
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Look in its build thread first. There is documentation and many build examples as well as related discussions. In general use the .xls from post#1 there for predicting the values for your setting parameters. Regarding output current capability always allow at least 100mA headroom setting above your load's predicted peak consumption. For >800mA CCS setting a Fairchild FQP3P20 Q101 Mosfet would be a more thermally efficient choice than the IRF9610 and about as fast for own parasitic capacitance. An IRF9530 would also work. Even more thermally efficient but "slower".

SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales
 
Hi Salas

I had managed to try the following with 5687 preamp series with 12.6v 900ma requirement. Feeding with a ac to dc smps 3a.

6x 1.7v led
1ohm 10w
2x irf9530
4.7 mkt zobel. 220uf 25v
2sk117 {non gr}
6800uf 63v
We tried various versions power supply.
OK it floored us.. Wow wow wow. The detail simply jump out of the speakers. Density clarity.

Just have a couple of issues. Firstly the temperature is very high. That I will use a better heat sink. But what else can you suggest. 2nd it lacks a little musicality and a little bright. Can you also suggest the ultimate mosfet for this function?

What can you suggest what could I try?

Thanks for making this great pcb. 2 thumbs up
 
Photo enclosed
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Hi Salas

I had managed to try the following with 5687 preamp series with 12.6v 900ma requirement. Feeding with a ac to dc smps 3a.

6x 1.7v led
1ohm 10w
2x irf9530
4.7 mkt zobel. 220uf 25v
2sk117 {non gr}
6800uf 63v
We tried various versions power supply.
OK it floored us.. Wow wow wow. The detail simply jump out of the speakers. Density clarity.

Just have a couple of issues. Firstly the temperature is very high. That I will use a better heat sink. But what else can you suggest. 2nd it lacks a little musicality and a little bright. Can you also suggest the ultimate mosfet for this function?

What can you suggest what could I try?

Thanks for making this great pcb. 2 thumbs up

Nice to know that it proved highly successful to your goals.

First measure the voltage drop across your R301 1Ω 10W. Find what current level you actually run by I=V/R. Restrict it with higher R301 value by reverse calculation if there is too much spare current for your use so to drop some heat.

Try that Fairchild type I suggested to you earlier for the Q301 CCS position Mosfet which is faster than the IRF9530 you now use but it can hold better than the standard IRF9610 in your pushed situation, it may give you bit alternative subjective impressions to compare. Another thing that may affect tonality is bypass C301 with small 10nF-100nF film capacitor directly under with very short legs or compare with all the way C302 film cap alternative.

For extended practical discussions always use the builds thread which is the adequate one.