I'm about to proceed with the order, but if you are after matched Fairchilds try
Tech DIY Company Store
I ordered 4 matched pairs yesterday for about £20 including postage.
What other bits do you need?
Just about everything. The only thing ordered so far is cvillers F5 and p/supply boards. Heatsinks I'm ordering from Dau next month; got my wifes birthday do and our 20th anniversary to pay for first so I guess parts will be obtained over the next few months. I thought that if you were buying resistors and caps it would work out cheaper to do a joint buy. What large electrolytics are you using?
----------------------------
Keith
----------------------------
Keith
Hi Keith
I received my capacitors earlier this month. Steve at ApexJr is selling 18000uf 50V Panasonic capacitors for $2.50...not a bad deal. A friendly chap to deal with
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/165466-fs-panasonic-18-000uf-50v-snap.html
Regards
Richard ; thanks for the pointers. I checked Tech DIY's site; saw that it said F5 clones kits not in till August so did'nt check further but now I'll order some mosfets. Think I'll use Rifa caps for the p/s; dearer than the panasonics but have a life of 60,000 hours and sound good too[ probably last longer than me]
Regards Keith
Regards Keith
Marra,
The LED is powered by the 24V (DC) with an inline resistor. If the LED is 3V and 20mA, a power supply of 24V gives a resistor value of 1.2KiloOhms at 1watt. My advise is to double that and see if it is bright enough for you at ~2.4kO. Better err on the dim side than burn it out, it cannot be replaced.
I have mine in series with other LEDs so I the value I used is not relevant.
WE WANT PICS!
Ron
The LED is powered by the 24V (DC) with an inline resistor. If the LED is 3V and 20mA, a power supply of 24V gives a resistor value of 1.2KiloOhms at 1watt. My advise is to double that and see if it is bright enough for you at ~2.4kO. Better err on the dim side than burn it out, it cannot be replaced.
I have mine in series with other LEDs so I the value I used is not relevant.
WE WANT PICS!
Ron
try 2mA as first guess for a dimly lit LED. It's then very easy to temporarily attach a second parallel resistor to the first to see what increase in brightness suits you and your surroundings.
24Vdc will require a resistor value of ~[24-2]/0.002 ~ 11k for 2mA.
use a 10k if you have it that will run at ~2.2mA.
Then add a second 10K to try what 4.4mA looks like.
24Vdc will require a resistor value of ~[24-2]/0.002 ~ 11k for 2mA.
use a 10k if you have it that will run at ~2.2mA.
Then add a second 10K to try what 4.4mA looks like.
As per the Bulgin spec. sheet on the LED ring Vandal resistant switch.
They recommend :
3.5V forward Voltage
20mA current
Using a LED calculator here:LED calculator for single LEDs
The calculated value of the resistor is 1.2kO at 1 Watt.
This series resistor will produce the highest lumen count while still being safe for the LED.
I recommended a ~2.4kO R which will produce 10mA of current. Still much less than the Manufacturer's recommendations.
How is this wrong?
At 2.2mA it will be so dim that you may not be able to tell it's on if the room is well lit / or in the sunlight.
I suppose it all depends upon how bright you want the LEDs.
Ron
They recommend :
3.5V forward Voltage
20mA current
Using a LED calculator here:LED calculator for single LEDs
The calculated value of the resistor is 1.2kO at 1 Watt.
This series resistor will produce the highest lumen count while still being safe for the LED.
I recommended a ~2.4kO R which will produce 10mA of current. Still much less than the Manufacturer's recommendations.
How is this wrong?
At 2.2mA it will be so dim that you may not be able to tell it's on if the room is well lit / or in the sunlight.
I suppose it all depends upon how bright you want the LEDs.
Ron
Last edited:
Hi Ron,
No insult intended.
I did not say you were wrong.
I simply suggested starting with a much lower current.
This has two advantages:
1.) It will not burn out the LED.
2.) the resistor will not get hot.
Once the LED is working then experimentation will get to a final answer very quickly.
It may be that 2levels of illumination are required, if bright and dim are needed for different times/conditions.
No insult intended.
I did not say you were wrong.
I simply suggested starting with a much lower current.
This has two advantages:
1.) It will not burn out the LED.
2.) the resistor will not get hot.
Once the LED is working then experimentation will get to a final answer very quickly.
It may be that 2levels of illumination are required, if bright and dim are needed for different times/conditions.
AndrewT,
Sorry,
I am a little touchy lately.
We have been trying to buy a house from the Bank and they Don't play nice! They demand all the upside and none of the risks, government regulations have really caused them to be extraordinarily stringent with buyer requirements. Sheesh!
Always safer to start at the low side and adjust up for desired brightness.
I've used these ring illuminator switches a few times before, I spoke from experience.
Ron
Sorry,
I am a little touchy lately.
We have been trying to buy a house from the Bank and they Don't play nice! They demand all the upside and none of the risks, government regulations have really caused them to be extraordinarily stringent with buyer requirements. Sheesh!
Always safer to start at the low side and adjust up for desired brightness.
I've used these ring illuminator switches a few times before, I spoke from experience.
Ron
Boards look great
Mr. Viller awesome job on the PCBs. I got them very promptly. I have a question about the rectifier boards though. You state that they are TO-247 on your buy page, but I can only find TO-220 heatsinks shaped like the silkscreen. From what I can gather, there's a huge difference between these two standards. Can you point me in the right direction? Maybe there's a thread somewhere describing common parts used or something.
Thanks,
Everett
Mr. Viller awesome job on the PCBs. I got them very promptly. I have a question about the rectifier boards though. You state that they are TO-247 on your buy page, but I can only find TO-220 heatsinks shaped like the silkscreen. From what I can gather, there's a huge difference between these two standards. Can you point me in the right direction? Maybe there's a thread somewhere describing common parts used or something.
Thanks,
Everett
I'll soon have to start packing because I'm going back to Denmark. I'll have to close down my order site while I am moving and I am not sure if I'll have time to continue once I get back, so if you were planning on ordering, then this week is your last chance.
Order site: GB order page for cviller
It has been great to run this GB - people have been so friendly and I can see around the net that a lot of F5's have been built using the boards!
Order site: GB order page for cviller
It has been great to run this GB - people have been so friendly and I can see around the net that a lot of F5's have been built using the boards!
This is beautiful
Where did you get this beautiful case and heat sink?
Christian,
After a series of failures (self induced) I have a thriving healthy newborn F5.
No Smoking on this Flight. What a smooth flight it is. Wonderful full bass with true to life highs and no background noise at all. (even with my terrible cable management at this rental house)SWEET.
The boards are so nice looking it's a shame to cover them up with a grill cover.
Easy to work with once you understand the F5.
Word to the wise; GO SLOW with the adjustments of P1 & P2 on each board.
If you have a Variac (I do) start at 20% and adjust to zero DC offset check voltage on R11 &R12 (lower is better) then turn up the Variac to 40%. Ect.
Caution: be sure that the legs of the thremsistor don't ground out on the chassis or bolt of the Mosfets. Smoking is bad for their health.
Thank you Christian, thank you Steve Eddy.
I couldn't be happier with the F5 and it plays my 89Db sensitivity Seas Thor speakers just fine!
Ron
Where did you get this beautiful case and heat sink?
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