Hi all!
Ispired by Junji Kimura's ultra-minimalist approach to audio, I decided to try to make my own diy speakercables. Kind of a clone of the 47 Laboratory STRATOS cable. Well, not exactly a clone, more like doing it minimalist-style. I won't go into any lenghty cable discussion with any religious groups, just give you the recipe I used to give me some sore thumbs and a very good performing cable:
1. 16m 0,5mm^2/22AWG magnet wire (enamelled Cu, 0,7mm outside D)
2. 16m 0,74mm^2/20AWG PTFE tube (teflon 0,86mm inside D)
-Cut into 4 lengths of 4 meters, tread magnet wire into the PFTE sleeving (this is the hard part), make 2 twisted pairs with a hand-drill and voilla -speaker cable finished
Of course you want to let the Cu-wire a little longer than the teflon jacket, and terminate with your favourite termination.
Stripping the magnet wire can be done in various ways (chemical, mechanical, heat) -I simply set my soldering station to 350'C (may vary a lot -experiment with some test pieces first) and "tinn" the ends of the cable. What happens is that the heat/solder tinn/flux melts the isolation/enamel of the cable leaving you with a nice tinned wire end. The secret is correct heat setting and lots of solder combined with some practice in getting the technique down.
BTW -total cost is about $15 for two 4m pairs
Ispired by Junji Kimura's ultra-minimalist approach to audio, I decided to try to make my own diy speakercables. Kind of a clone of the 47 Laboratory STRATOS cable. Well, not exactly a clone, more like doing it minimalist-style. I won't go into any lenghty cable discussion with any religious groups, just give you the recipe I used to give me some sore thumbs and a very good performing cable:
1. 16m 0,5mm^2/22AWG magnet wire (enamelled Cu, 0,7mm outside D)
2. 16m 0,74mm^2/20AWG PTFE tube (teflon 0,86mm inside D)
-Cut into 4 lengths of 4 meters, tread magnet wire into the PFTE sleeving (this is the hard part), make 2 twisted pairs with a hand-drill and voilla -speaker cable finished
Of course you want to let the Cu-wire a little longer than the teflon jacket, and terminate with your favourite termination.
Stripping the magnet wire can be done in various ways (chemical, mechanical, heat) -I simply set my soldering station to 350'C (may vary a lot -experiment with some test pieces first) and "tinn" the ends of the cable. What happens is that the heat/solder tinn/flux melts the isolation/enamel of the cable leaving you with a nice tinned wire end. The secret is correct heat setting and lots of solder combined with some practice in getting the technique down.
BTW -total cost is about $15 for two 4m pairs
tiroth said:Isn't the teflon a bit redundant?
Yes, if you're really hard-core you could do without the teflon.
If you do it that way you get even lower Inductance. (And porportionally higher capacitance, but this is of less importance). The reason I used it (and recommended it) is the risk of shorting the power-amp The LCR are reasonably low anyway.
My point is that you can make a very good performing cable for almost nothing and ready to go in an evening
Cable/material choice can be anything resembling what I used -use whatever you like/is awailable. As a side note I might add that if I should do it again I think I would choose a PTFE tube with slightly bigger inside dia. because at the end of the treading prosedure the wire was almost stuck in the tube..
Re: Clone this, gain that............?
Very well, thank you
It gives a very natural and dynamic presentation. Seems a very good companion to a gainclone. Still burning in though.
Chris said:And how does the MADK-SAN wire perform???
Very well, thank you
It gives a very natural and dynamic presentation. Seems a very good companion to a gainclone. Still burning in though.
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