Here's a question, and I think it may be a pretty standard procedure.
The cabinets are 10" deep OD.
Q. What if I was to glue up some nice maple (or something) 10-1/2" wide. Run it through the planer on a sled, mill it down to 1/4" or 3/8". Then simply wrap the box with hardwood using 45 degree miters, extend the "nice" wood to cover the grill edge.
Is that what manufactures do?
The cabinets are 10" deep OD.
Q. What if I was to glue up some nice maple (or something) 10-1/2" wide. Run it through the planer on a sled, mill it down to 1/4" or 3/8". Then simply wrap the box with hardwood using 45 degree miters, extend the "nice" wood to cover the grill edge.
Is that what manufactures do?
depends, a lot o the mainstream commercial products will be v-groove pre-veneered /vinyl wrapped particle board or MDF
I generally find that a sheet paper backed veneer is cheaper/less time consuming in the long run that what you have in mind, or certainly in getting a high quality paint finish
if you do layer with solid, I'd suggest keeping it flush with the front panel and beveling the edges of grille frames and enclosures - far less diffraction
I have one FF125 playing ~~ neat!
See you just can't win with grills.
I've used quite a bit of paper back veneer, trim with a good razor knife, sand lightly. I was thinking a 3/8" layer would sand/stain/finish nice.
I was checking out my buddy Aerials, I think they did something like that. They are solid as a rock.
I have one FF125 playing ~~ neat!
See you just can't win with grills.
I've used quite a bit of paper back veneer, trim with a good razor knife, sand lightly. I was thinking a 3/8" layer would sand/stain/finish nice.
I was checking out my buddy Aerials, I think they did something like that. They are solid as a rock.
I have one FF125 playing ~~ neat!
hey what are the forums for, if not for us to second guess other builders (or for that matter driver manufactures)?
certainly more freedom for shaping / edge details, etc.
The 5" drivers are very nice, a quality tone/sound. I could see how they could be used a wide selection of installations AND very reasonably priced, when you come right down to it.
They image nice, an avatage of a full range speaker I suppose.
I may wrap four sides of the box with a "super thick" veneer, will use a 45 degee or round over bit to dress it up.
Thanks!
They image nice, an avatage of a full range speaker I suppose.
I may wrap four sides of the box with a "super thick" veneer, will use a 45 degee or round over bit to dress it up.
Thanks!
you want to be able to vary the resistace from zero to say 10-20ohms, I think you will be around 5ohms. Not sure which pins. Check with a multimeter. You will want a squeek more than a .1mf inductor, .13mF yields 6,440hz, but .11mF plus 4.7uf is 7,000hz. So hopefully you have an inductance meter (even I don't), but idealy you buy a .13mF then unwind some till you get .11mF.
Someone else please check my math.
Norman
Someone else please check my math.
Norman
"its what full range is all about"
Hey Norman,
I did contact Madisound (as someone mentioned), they recommend "letting them play on it's own merit for a while - it's what full range is all about."
I'm trying to run the hours up fast with my little set up; getting close to 100.
There's a 50, 60, 70hz recording in the mini CD player, set on repeat, a little surprised it works as well as it does. They sound pretty throaty - in a good way.
I will try the notch filter, probably this weekend.
Hey Norman,
I did contact Madisound (as someone mentioned), they recommend "letting them play on it's own merit for a while - it's what full range is all about."
I'm trying to run the hours up fast with my little set up; getting close to 100.
There's a 50, 60, 70hz recording in the mini CD player, set on repeat, a little surprised it works as well as it does. They sound pretty throaty - in a good way.
I will try the notch filter, probably this weekend.
Attachments
I finally got a chance to listen to them, after a week of breaking them in, 24 hours a day. That does make a huge difference and they were sounding very nice. They do sound better then the 2-ways that I've been using (5-1/4 peerless and morel tweeter).
The most interesting part I think is how hard it is to tell where the sound is coming from, the sound just floats. Secondly, how they fill the room with sound.
The bass is pretty strong, can always use a little more; I suspect a Fonken would have a good bit more. I did use the bass boost (before added a subwoofer), that worked well.
The peak around 7K ~ I noticed it for a while, but soon forgot about it, and was hearing parts of music that I never heard before, so not all bad.
I'm really enjoying the driver, even the wife thought it has a nice tone/sound, and it does. I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a full range driver.
The most interesting part I think is how hard it is to tell where the sound is coming from, the sound just floats. Secondly, how they fill the room with sound.
The bass is pretty strong, can always use a little more; I suspect a Fonken would have a good bit more. I did use the bass boost (before added a subwoofer), that worked well.
The peak around 7K ~ I noticed it for a while, but soon forgot about it, and was hearing parts of music that I never heard before, so not all bad.
I'm really enjoying the driver, even the wife thought it has a nice tone/sound, and it does. I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a full range driver.
Oops, sorry, I had the wrong driver (ff125wk).
The fx120 freq response looks awesomely flat.
http://meniscusaudio.com/images/fx120.pdf
how big of a room ?
How far away you sit ?
type of music ?
I was thinking of maybe 24db @ 200hz (I can't divorce my 15's). It seems there is a simple 2-way active crossover (measnt as sub+sat) around $129 that uses minimal parts and may be an easy opamp replacement. And the high and low pass are completely seperate, unlike most pa crossovers.
Norman
The fx120 freq response looks awesomely flat.
http://meniscusaudio.com/images/fx120.pdf
how big of a room ?
How far away you sit ?
type of music ?
I was thinking of maybe 24db @ 200hz (I can't divorce my 15's). It seems there is a simple 2-way active crossover (measnt as sub+sat) around $129 that uses minimal parts and may be an easy opamp replacement. And the high and low pass are completely seperate, unlike most pa crossovers.
Norman
I do have both Fostex 5" drivers mentioned, it would be hard to decide which is better, Imo, the 120 has a lot of bass, the 125wk have a very nice "tone". I am a big fan of saving $$ for DIY speaker projects.
The speakers are in the shop (where I spend a lot of time) so it's a "big" room.
Music - all over the place, no jazz or classical.
I could always use another 2-way active crossover, is there a link?
The speakers are in the shop (where I spend a lot of time) so it's a "big" room.
Music - all over the place, no jazz or classical.
I could always use another 2-way active crossover, is there a link?
lol, another ?
I have a rolls rx321 that made a pioneer b20 crossed at 200hz sound worse than run wide open. But crossing to an ultra clean compression driver, it balances out as pretty well.
My buddy at work will tell me next week which one it is.
I'm thinking of using the 120 to try this.
The Granada Loudspeaker
200hz crossover point, dual 12's with a bunch of eq, open baffle also.
I'd wrap the back of the drivers with foam, I don't need a wall bounce (room too small, baffles too close to wall).
I can put the 120 in a wide baffle box, an open backed box, or a small open baffle and sit whatever on my 15's (see my avatar).
I like 200hz @24db for voice and full range drivers, but crossing at baffle step makes for a huge baffle for a small driver.
Norman
I have a rolls rx321 that made a pioneer b20 crossed at 200hz sound worse than run wide open. But crossing to an ultra clean compression driver, it balances out as pretty well.
My buddy at work will tell me next week which one it is.
I'm thinking of using the 120 to try this.
The Granada Loudspeaker
200hz crossover point, dual 12's with a bunch of eq, open baffle also.
I'd wrap the back of the drivers with foam, I don't need a wall bounce (room too small, baffles too close to wall).
I can put the 120 in a wide baffle box, an open backed box, or a small open baffle and sit whatever on my 15's (see my avatar).
I like 200hz @24db for voice and full range drivers, but crossing at baffle step makes for a huge baffle for a small driver.
Norman
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