Full Range Speaker Photo Gallery

thank you zman01....

In for my last round with chemoterapy (11 and maybe 12). And with good prospect - so looking forward to get more energy and spirit. It is not easy to spot that I am sick - but I am very tired.

So I am looking forward to the winter with maybe Alp12PW - and maybe an ribbon or AMT - I am fond of the AMT-sound. very sparkling and nice!

If the future gives some easier year to join this nice building forum!

thanks to all.

Olav
 
Thanks Godzilla....

Yea - life is tough at times - but with determination and faith we`ll get through....

And I surely will try new buildings - I have newly used the mini AMT`s from Dayton on my FHXL as supertweeters past 10khz. Just to hear if the high-def files i have from AIX,2L and other is giving sparkle to the sound. And it does. So now I have two more coming along to try on the ALP12P - to test my newbuilt Raspberry Pi streamer! To hear the difference on these High-Res files!:cool:

One lesson i have learned in life is: don`t ever get stuck in a bad situation. Move and keep your mind and spirit in activity. Then the road is a place of learning and discovery.

God bless

Olav
 
Tabaq with Dayton Audio RS100-8 drivers.

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Steve
 
So, withavee, what are they like? Strengths? Weaknesses? Not to single you out, but man, I wish posters would talk about their creations. I mean, sure it's nice to see photos of peoples' builds, but how much better to learn a little along the way?

Well Carl, in my defence this is after all a "photo gallery" thread which generally implies photo's only in my experience.

However, since you asked, I think they sound great (to my 45 year old ears anyway). I don't pretend to know anything about describing aural qualities as I think it's a very personal experience (like all that waffle when people try to describe a wine...) and what I hear is more than likely not what you will hear. I can only describe them as clean and detailed with surprisingly good (forward?) mids and bass. I am very happy with them, total build cost about 180NZD (120US), what's not to like.

I'm going to try them as near field on the imac for a while.

Is that what you were asking, or did you mean strength/weakness of the actual cabinet build/plans?
 
You got it, withavee, and thanks for the description. What you wrote is very descriptive in a way I can relate to. Just what I was looking for. As I said, I didn't mean to single you out. Just that I find photos without some kind of description not very useful. But I may be in the minority here, and will try to keep quiet about that now.

That said, if you (or other posters) found the build to be particularly difficult (or easy) or particularly or better performing than other builds with the same driver, that would also be interesting to me. Especially if you mention a particular design.

Cheers!
 
No worries. As far as the build is concerned the "box" itself was straightforward (as you'd expect) however I used 18mm ply and the plans were for 15mm so I just adjusted the cuts to keep the internal sizes the same as the plans i.e. adding 6mm to the appropriate pieces. I doubt the 6mm would make much difference to the sound output but I'm fairly new to this speaker building caper so I made it like the designer intended.

The only tricky bit in construction was the internal brace for the back of the driver. You have to be spot on with that measurement taking into account gasket compression to get it (the magnet) to hit the brace exactly. A few thou short and it's flapping in the breeze doing nothing, too much and it's hindering the tightening down of the driver onto the gasket at the front.

To be honest, my engineering brain couldn't see the point of it. I mean surely that little lightweight 4" driver is going to be held securely and solidly by the front screws?
But again, I'm new to this so did what the plans said :)

I actually ended up cutting it short and gluing a piece of cork to the edge that met the driver magnet (for a bit of compression). This actually still wasn't good enough for my liking so I ended up putting some gasket material on the cork as well and got a good firm fit that way, This is obviously all done with one side of the cabinet off.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
The holey brace allows the sharing of the driver's reactive energy between the back, top & bottom, as well as the baffle reducing the energies, to minimize the possibility of feeding any one panel sufficient energy to cause it to resonate. Don't discount how much energy these small drivers can feed into the cabinet. We have a FAST with an FF85wKeN and thinking along the same lines as you, i didn't install a holey brace or any braces at all in the front mid TL. The baffle rings like crazy and we need to retro-fit some bracing after the fact. to fix it.

dave
 
Steve - running nearfield with an iMac - what amp, and are you using an outboard DAC?

For bang for buck, I quite like the Topping D20 DAC, and the TP3116 class D amp
Getting a bit of thread drift here, so at the risk of a rap over the knuckles, I'm currently using a chinese cheapy valve APPJ PA0901A (otherwise known as a miniwatt N3 I think).

But I do have some others waiting in the wings to try (7492, TPA3116, hifimediy T1 etc).
 
The holey brace allows the sharing of the driver's reactive energy between the back, top & bottom, as well as the baffle reducing the energies, to minimize the possibility of feeding any one panel sufficient energy to cause it to resonate.

dave

Wow, ok, didn't know it was so important - glad I put it in :) Thanks Dave. I'm planning on a pensil build next.

Cheers
 
Steve,

How do you find the Tabaq vs the Microtowers for listening?
Both are very listenable. A good friend heard them and was very surprised at how good they sound and how low they go. But the Microtower are that little bit better, although Dave has reminded me about adding a base for them to sit on!

The A10-M10 Bob Brines design that live in my lounge room are another level again - they can really hit the spot!

One reason I like the single driver speakers is the simplicity of the build. Fortunately they sound great as well and have made some mates to reconsider what good sound really is.

Thanks for the great designs.

Steve
 
Getting a bit of thread drift here, so at the risk of a rap over the knuckles, I'm currently using a chinese cheapy valve APPJ PA0901A (otherwise known as a miniwatt N3 I think).

But I do have some others waiting in the wings to try (7492, TPA3116, hifimediy T1 etc).


These are easy to modify and not expensive to do. There are many threads about it, try it. They soun d very nice as they are, modified is practically unbelievable what you get for your money.