I use two resistors and make the speaker 3, 8, and 16 ohm, so you can use different impedances to suit your amp(s) The resistors depend on what the impedance of the membrane ends up as,depending on the size you make it. I am in the process of building a full range planar headphone using neos. Have just stripped down one of my cheap and cheerful headphones, which is just the right size, wish me luck.As I design it of the top of my head as I go along.
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Anatomy of a Planar Magnetic Headphone Driver - YouTube
Here's som nice footage of two the most modern planar headphone drivers.
Here's som nice footage of two the most modern planar headphone drivers.
I've been playing around with the idea of using 3D printing and long, thin neos (3") to make arrays of ribbon drivers for headphones. (Like 4 or 5 of them side by side?) Has this been tried? I'd guess that there would be extreme problems with bass response due to sealing, but it seems to me that an open air design should be possible. Would there be problems with odd resonances between drivers?
I have batted around the Idea using a conductive ink in a Printer cartridge a few years ago but the ink is too coarse and thick for your standard cartridge.
It is now being done with some of the newer technologies of today but I have yet to see a system that the average DIYer could afford.
I just had a thought that you might be able to fill a printer cartridge with some LICRON(in which I think is availible in bulk as a non-aresol product) and print the pattern and then maybe use a plating process to get the final traces.
Just a thought! Jer
It is now being done with some of the newer technologies of today but I have yet to see a system that the average DIYer could afford.
I just had a thought that you might be able to fill a printer cartridge with some LICRON(in which I think is availible in bulk as a non-aresol product) and print the pattern and then maybe use a plating process to get the final traces.
Just a thought! Jer
I am in the process of designing a full range planar headphone I have just bought the magnets, and I have the headphone stripped down from an old pair just the right size, just a matter of finding the right design, and thinking about it and coming up with a Eureka moment. Although I have been too busy doing other things. LIKE COMING UP WITH A SMALLER DESIGN FOR A FULL RANGE PLANAR. I am in the process of buying more neo magnets, when I sort out the best prices, and sizes. Will put some pics in when it has been sorted.
barely conductive
the LICRON seems to be barely conductive. I was thinking on silver paint used to repair rear window defogger. I'm still investigating.
The option of use a ink jet printer... well we are talking on conductive ink on an electrostatic device... mmm
I've read somewhere that it's possible to print solar cells. This printer is what we need to print conductive stripes.
Or using a 3d printer. This guys print metal with high precision.
what about printing stripes...
Shapeways | Passionate about creating
just a thought, as you said.
I have batted around the Idea using a conductive ink in a Printer cartridge a few years ago but the ink is too coarse and thick for your standard cartridge.
It is now being done with some of the newer technologies of today but I have yet to see a system that the average DIYer could afford.
I just had a thought that you might be able to fill a printer cartridge with some LICRON(in which I think is availible in bulk as a non-aresol product) and print the pattern and then maybe use a plating process to get the final traces.
Just a thought! Jer
the LICRON seems to be barely conductive. I was thinking on silver paint used to repair rear window defogger. I'm still investigating.
The option of use a ink jet printer... well we are talking on conductive ink on an electrostatic device... mmm
I've read somewhere that it's possible to print solar cells. This printer is what we need to print conductive stripes.
Or using a 3d printer. This guys print metal with high precision.
what about printing stripes...
Shapeways | Passionate about creating
just a thought, as you said.
I had been looking at some magnets about that size.
It will be interesting to see your smaller build.
As I have mentioned elsewhere I would like to make a small scale model of my Apogee Duette's maybe about the size of a sheet of paper for use as my desk top speakers.
I think that they would look so cool as well as sound nice for nearfield use.
jer
It will be interesting to see your smaller build.
As I have mentioned elsewhere I would like to make a small scale model of my Apogee Duette's maybe about the size of a sheet of paper for use as my desk top speakers.
I think that they would look so cool as well as sound nice for nearfield use.
jer
Yes, the Licron Has a very high resistance.
But it does conduct and may serve has a good base for an electroplated material.
It is something that I plan to try soon as I have all of the stuff.
In the past I have had issues getting proper bonding to the mylar and the paint will readily peel of as you work with it.
So it should be applied after it has been tensioned.
Also the paint is quite thick and heavy when it is applied even after it cures.
So adjusting its thickness is a must.
I have tried such a process using some gold leaf glue rubbed with graphite and it worked well.
Except,that the copper plate was as pure as it could be and was very brittle and took a very heavy coat to keep from breaking,By then it was to heavy to use as a ribbon tweeter but may work well for the bass panel though.
This may have been atributed to surface of the base (glue and graphite) not being prefectly smooth like glass.
Coating the mylar with something like Licron might allow it to get that kind of finnish in order to have a thin enough coating to not be too thick, making it too brittle, causing breaks in the traces.
Just a few thoughts.
jer
But it does conduct and may serve has a good base for an electroplated material.
It is something that I plan to try soon as I have all of the stuff.
In the past I have had issues getting proper bonding to the mylar and the paint will readily peel of as you work with it.
So it should be applied after it has been tensioned.
Also the paint is quite thick and heavy when it is applied even after it cures.
So adjusting its thickness is a must.
I have tried such a process using some gold leaf glue rubbed with graphite and it worked well.
Except,that the copper plate was as pure as it could be and was very brittle and took a very heavy coat to keep from breaking,By then it was to heavy to use as a ribbon tweeter but may work well for the bass panel though.
This may have been atributed to surface of the base (glue and graphite) not being prefectly smooth like glass.
Coating the mylar with something like Licron might allow it to get that kind of finnish in order to have a thin enough coating to not be too thick, making it too brittle, causing breaks in the traces.
Just a few thoughts.
jer
I have a Large Vinyl cutter/plotter But it has been along time since it has been used and needs new rubber parts.
But you can get a smaller one fairly cheap now days as I was pricing them a few years ago.
I used to make patterns with it and etch foils that way and you can also cut the foil and transfer it using a transfer paper.
Since then I don't have any of those supplies for it right now.
But, Like I had mentioned earlier (in another thread) I had to much going on recording so those projects went by the way side.
jer
P.S Not to mention, Conductive paint is not cheap by any means,But it can be made to work for sure.
But you can get a smaller one fairly cheap now days as I was pricing them a few years ago.
I used to make patterns with it and etch foils that way and you can also cut the foil and transfer it using a transfer paper.
Since then I don't have any of those supplies for it right now.
But, Like I had mentioned earlier (in another thread) I had to much going on recording so those projects went by the way side.
jer
P.S Not to mention, Conductive paint is not cheap by any means,But it can be made to work for sure.
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The classic Magneplanar driver has rubber bounded ferrite magnets, Plastiform (Arnold Magnetics). The true ribbon drivers has sintered ferrite magnets. There is little point in using very strong magnets for bass drivers in open panel speakers, it will kill the high-Q peak at lower frequencies that is neccessary. The reason to chose strong magnets makes more sense where the size of the magnets is of importance, like in push-pull drivers for higher frequencies.
Roger
mini Apogee
Scale model of Apogees.
sounds very very nice to me.
I also like a pair for my desk!
I was using a pair of XTC satellites with ribbon tweeter, but the sound was tiring and too much directive. Still want a planar design but the project has been delayed by my 3 month daugther...
I had been looking at some magnets about that size.
It will be interesting to see your smaller build.
As I have mentioned elsewhere I would like to make a small scale model of my Apogee Duette's maybe about the size of a sheet of paper for use as my desk top speakers.
I think that they would look so cool as well as sound nice for nearfield use.
jer
Scale model of Apogees.
sounds very very nice to me.
I also like a pair for my desk!
I was using a pair of XTC satellites with ribbon tweeter, but the sound was tiring and too much directive. Still want a planar design but the project has been delayed by my 3 month daugther...
The bass of the Apogees is much better than the Magnelanars, stronger magnets would increase the sensitivity or one can use smaller Neo magnets.
What are typical sizes of the Pastiform magnets?
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