I've been looking for the most active FH3 thread and I think I've found it here. Apologies that I've posted this in two other threads as well as this one.
Hi everybody. This is my first post. I am thinking of getting a flatpack pair of FH3s from Custom Cans in the UK. So far as I can find these are the only flatpack kits available in the UK. If anyone knows different, please let me know.
My only concerns (at this stage) concern damping materials, quantities and adjustment. Custom Cans supply the necessary felt with their kits, so assuming this is OK it just remains for me to source the looser stuffing and then get it right. It seems that different materials are available in different countries so I'm particularly interested to know what materials other UK builders have used. I'm also a bit confused about how much to stuff in the V. I've looked at the diagram, but to be honest I don't really understand it. Any clarification would be much appreciated. I'll have more questions later. Thanks in advance.
Ifor
Hi everybody. This is my first post. I am thinking of getting a flatpack pair of FH3s from Custom Cans in the UK. So far as I can find these are the only flatpack kits available in the UK. If anyone knows different, please let me know.
My only concerns (at this stage) concern damping materials, quantities and adjustment. Custom Cans supply the necessary felt with their kits, so assuming this is OK it just remains for me to source the looser stuffing and then get it right. It seems that different materials are available in different countries so I'm particularly interested to know what materials other UK builders have used. I'm also a bit confused about how much to stuff in the V. I've looked at the diagram, but to be honest I don't really understand it. Any clarification would be much appreciated. I'll have more questions later. Thanks in advance.
Ifor
Custom Cans doesnotsupply the fubre fill?
Notmuch more i can say than what is in the plans. 30g in the pointy bit, and depending on the driver (and room, placement, and taste), 0-40 g below the driver in the middle section.
Typically close to 0 for the FE126 and 20-40 for FF126 A7, CHx.
dave
Thanks Dave.
No, Custom Cans supply the felt, but not the fluff.
I've seen in some posted pictures that some people put fill above the V section, directly behind the driver. Is this correct? If so, is that part of the "30g in the pointy bit" or is it extra?
Also, if I put a net below the driver to hold the stuffing, how far down should it be?
No, Custom Cans supply the felt, but not the fluff.
I've seen in some posted pictures that some people put fill above the V section, directly behind the driver. Is this correct? If so, is that part of the "30g in the pointy bit" or is it extra?
Also, if I put a net below the driver to hold the stuffing, how far down should it be?
I quote from their website, "The kit comes with all the panels to build 2 Frugal-Horn MK3 cabinets and MarkAudio Alpair 7.3 drivers to stot straight into them. The front baffles already have the holes recessed to fit the drivers flush for the best possible sound. We include the heavy felt damping material to line the upper part of the cabinet. In addition you will need some fluffy sound absorbing material like pollystuff, kapok, wool or twaron depending on your preference you will also need some wood glue and G clamps to help construct them. You will also need some cable to wire up the drivers to your amp. Optionally you may also want to buy some speaker spikes and maybe some binding posts if you want detachable cables".
typo alert - I think Dave meant FF125WK, and all the Mark Audio CH series we've tried to date - i.e. not yet the new CHN70 - that one will need some break-in and listening to assess fibre fill levels
As a personal note -I've probably built more pairs of this design than most folk, and it's narrow enough ((170mm with 15mm side panels and 176mm with 18mm) that spikes directly on the bottom panel or even edges of side panels won't reduce its tendency to wobble. I'd strongly recommend outrigger bars of wood or aluminum plate for stabilization.
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Thanks Chris and Dave. I'll get the A7.3s with the flatpack kit from Custom Cans.
Any comments/advice on this?
Chris, I'm particularly interested in advice on buying (or making/having made) suitable spike outriggers. Your guidance would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Ifor
Any comments/advice on this?
Chris, I'm particularly interested in advice on buying (or making/having made) suitable spike outriggers. Your guidance would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Ifor
Attached sketch is specs for aluminum bars we had milled up for these a while back. - there must be photos somewhere here of them installed on enclosures - I just don't keep them very well organized on my 'puters.
Feel free to convert to metric dimensions
an modify thread pitch for spikes or furniture levelers
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Brass will be a LOT more expensive than aluminum if that's a concern. You can paint aluminum to look like brass.
jeff
I need help!
I've always wanted to build a pair of acoustical labyrinth speakers and I found this forum. I have read many pages here, but I don't seem to find what I'm looking for.
1. Are these speakers designed for low powered tube amps?
2. Any advise on drivers for MOSFET amp? B&K Components 115 W/ channel
I've always wanted to build a pair of acoustical labyrinth speakers and I found this forum. I have read many pages here, but I don't seem to find what I'm looking for.
1. Are these speakers designed for low powered tube amps?
2. Any advise on drivers for MOSFET amp? B&K Components 115 W/ channel
What tube amp? They can't allbe lumped together. Given the range of drivers that can be used, one can be found for almost any amp.
Enuff power for lmost any driver that works, but lower output impedance than would be best for FR126.
dave