This sounds very nice and probably more “monitor” like compared to Karlsonator. However, being sealed small boxes there is not much bass below 100Hz. But the articulation and clarity of mids, voices, musical instruments and shimmer of high hats is all there. It’s very compact so can use on bookshelf in bedroom. If you want a speaker with more bass extension and room filling sound, go with Karlsonator. If you want a more clear monitor like sound, go with these.
Hi Xrk, how do you feel these compare to the bigger RS225/10F in the mids and top end?
I have a set of speakers heavily inspired by you using the 10F together with a pair of Seas U18RNX. I really like the sound of them, but I just love the tone and timbre.
If I am nit picking though I sometimes feel there is something a little bit holding back in the top end. I don't know what it is, it's just probably me that aren't used to FR drivers, but I'm thinking maybe a smaller and lighter FR driver may suit me better?
I have a set of speakers heavily inspired by you using the 10F together with a pair of Seas U18RNX. I really like the sound of them, but I just love the tone and timbre.
If I am nit picking though I sometimes feel there is something a little bit holding back in the top end. I don't know what it is, it's just probably me that aren't used to FR drivers, but I'm thinking maybe a smaller and lighter FR driver may suit me better?
You might be looking for a dome tweeter sound. Sometimes that’s all that will work if you are looking for the high flourish. Try this:
RST28F and DC130A Foamcore Homage to LS3/5A
Simple xo at 5.5khz and voicing is similar to 10F and RS225. Smooth and well balanced.
RST28F and DC130A Foamcore Homage to LS3/5A
Simple xo at 5.5khz and voicing is similar to 10F and RS225. Smooth and well balanced.
if i may:
try using good bypass or high quality cap for 10F.
Also, i had good luck with parallelling a bunch (10 or more) of good metal film resistor, for the padding circuit (compared to mills 12w resistor).
it will help with higher frequencies.
otherwise fr58x could work but i personally had vibration issues with it (maybe i'm doing something wrong). Also small sb65wbac is highly regarded and could be fitted. personally i am curious about ne65w.
either way the circuit would have to be adjusted.
hope it helps! (i will leave the rest to other forum members)
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Good tips Pidesd! Yes, a quality film cap can help and metal thin film resistors trick is interesting concept. I have used that trick to make low distortion amp dummy loads vs wirewound resistors. It makes a big difference at sub 1% THD levels for a load so probably will have some effect as a padding resistor.
In my case I have 62uF of Jantzen superior z-caps and no padding of the FR-driver because I have 2 Seas U18RNX in paralell in a horn-hybrid cabinet.
Don't get me wrong, it is a VERY good sounding speaker. But if you play something like Nils Lofgren live recordings, the high frequencies doesn't feel as "fast" as say a Seas 22taf metal dome tweeter (which I like a lot)
Thanks for the tip on the RST28F and DC130A thread. I will look into that.
Don't get me wrong, it is a VERY good sounding speaker. But if you play something like Nils Lofgren live recordings, the high frequencies doesn't feel as "fast" as say a Seas 22taf metal dome tweeter (which I like a lot)
Thanks for the tip on the RST28F and DC130A thread. I will look into that.
Yes it is difficult to expect a 3 inch woofer to behave like a tweeter. One other thing also that helped all around, in my case, was running the 10F in fullrange mode for some time before integration. just significantly more detail.
if you want a good trade off, i would look into maybe the fr58, like you said, or similar sized drivers....but the problem then is sensitivity and power rating. You could try paralleling 4 ohms drivers, but make sure the amp + padding resistor can take it.
I'am bit in the same boat as you because i want a little extra high freq. performance and will try to add a small tweeter first order....
EDIT: in regular 10F + rs225 , i use a high value inductor (circa 45 mH) at the moment, in parallel with 10F, and though it load the amp +resistor, the highest frequencies, especially, are ameliorated significantly. (Use at your own risk)
if you want a good trade off, i would look into maybe the fr58, like you said, or similar sized drivers....but the problem then is sensitivity and power rating. You could try paralleling 4 ohms drivers, but make sure the amp + padding resistor can take it.
I'am bit in the same boat as you because i want a little extra high freq. performance and will try to add a small tweeter first order....
EDIT: in regular 10F + rs225 , i use a high value inductor (circa 45 mH) at the moment, in parallel with 10F, and though it load the amp +resistor, the highest frequencies, especially, are ameliorated significantly. (Use at your own risk)
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Why not add a SEAS and have a three-way.
The 10f is a lovely midrange, easily crossed 300/3k, or a little higher for the max spl fans, so you can leave what you have and add the m/h section, just adjust the mid level.
The neo version of that SEAS is nice, too. So you can find a spot on the baffle, I hope.
The 10f is a lovely midrange, easily crossed 300/3k, or a little higher for the max spl fans, so you can leave what you have and add the m/h section, just adjust the mid level.
The neo version of that SEAS is nice, too. So you can find a spot on the baffle, I hope.
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Keep the phase constant
That is so excellent concept. I know there are naysayers who think that turning phases around is the only way. Fortunately there are some who have proved that it isn't necessarily so.
That is so excellent concept. I know there are naysayers who think that turning phases around is the only way. Fortunately there are some who have proved that it isn't necessarily so.
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