Real Wool Felt
Here's an inexpensive source for real wool felt: www.waldorfsupplies.com (choose the felting and wool category, its down at the very bottom).
They sell a 3x3 ft. square for $14.50. I just ordered a square and will let you know what its like (general impression of quality anyway - won't be starting my cabinets until a friend gets his table saw set up). I've read elsewhere on this forum that real wool felt is hard to come by. I hope this helps anyone whose search as been in vain.
Keith
planet10 said:
Here's an inexpensive source for real wool felt: www.waldorfsupplies.com (choose the felting and wool category, its down at the very bottom).
They sell a 3x3 ft. square for $14.50. I just ordered a square and will let you know what its like (general impression of quality anyway - won't be starting my cabinets until a friend gets his table saw set up). I've read elsewhere on this forum that real wool felt is hard to come by. I hope this helps anyone whose search as been in vain.
Keith
FE 166ES-R finished project
I've actually had my horns completed for a few months now but have not posted since there was alot of break-in time needed for them to sound good. I moved the cabinets back into the corners as seen in the photo. I found that the best combo of bass performance and midrange smoothness was obtained with this placement in my room, which is 24 deep and 13.5 wide with sloping ceiling and 8.5 ft. center. The speakers need at least 300 hours break in and they are smoothing out even after 400 hours. I drive them with 8 watts of 300B power ( amps are to the right of speaker) The cabinets are made entirely out of baltic birch. The magnet assembly is wrapped in felt and the compression chamber lined on the back and bottom with 1/8 inch thick medium density 100% wool felt. The speaker is wired to WBT posts with 6 starnds of 18 gauge long crystal silver wire with teflon loose insulation. All in all they are very musical though a bit peaky at around 750Hz in my room. I treated the corners behind the speakers with a 1 inch foam placed in strips a seen in the photo.
Bass smoothes out and I think the mids sre less beamy on some recordings. Hope the picture loads.
I've actually had my horns completed for a few months now but have not posted since there was alot of break-in time needed for them to sound good. I moved the cabinets back into the corners as seen in the photo. I found that the best combo of bass performance and midrange smoothness was obtained with this placement in my room, which is 24 deep and 13.5 wide with sloping ceiling and 8.5 ft. center. The speakers need at least 300 hours break in and they are smoothing out even after 400 hours. I drive them with 8 watts of 300B power ( amps are to the right of speaker) The cabinets are made entirely out of baltic birch. The magnet assembly is wrapped in felt and the compression chamber lined on the back and bottom with 1/8 inch thick medium density 100% wool felt. The speaker is wired to WBT posts with 6 starnds of 18 gauge long crystal silver wire with teflon loose insulation. All in all they are very musical though a bit peaky at around 750Hz in my room. I treated the corners behind the speakers with a 1 inch foam placed in strips a seen in the photo.
Bass smoothes out and I think the mids sre less beamy on some recordings. Hope the picture loads.
Attachments
Fostex 166ES-R
I was hoping to get some more comments and finished projects after posting my finished Jpeg. Here are my impressions after 500hours break-in As expected the highs and bass have both extended and smoothed out considerably. Moving the speakers into the corners has also paid big dividens in my 13x22 room. I am really enjoying my music through these horns. They have a purity of tone and a dynamic force that is utterly beautiful. Here is a new link for a look closer look at the speakers and my system .
http://home.earthlink.net/~conartonj/
Now where has Nelson Pass been hiding!
Cherers,
JC
I was hoping to get some more comments and finished projects after posting my finished Jpeg. Here are my impressions after 500hours break-in As expected the highs and bass have both extended and smoothed out considerably. Moving the speakers into the corners has also paid big dividens in my 13x22 room. I am really enjoying my music through these horns. They have a purity of tone and a dynamic force that is utterly beautiful. Here is a new link for a look closer look at the speakers and my system .
http://home.earthlink.net/~conartonj/
Now where has Nelson Pass been hiding!
Cherers,
JC
Finally, a followup.
Zowie! Yeah man! Dig it!
MUSIC!
Pop! Zing! Pow! Zoom! Snap!
sotto voce... Crescendo!
Ahhhhhhh!
Notes on tweaking and sound
Two critical parts of getting this speaker settled -
Placement
Not much output on sides and back - cabinets are very thick and heavy and the layers of the plywood and internal baffles tends to dampen resonances
Use a laser level to adjust toe-in so that the centerlines cross in front of the listener...
Compression Chamber Tweakings
Initially played them empty - very lively, poppy sound - extremely good transients for drums, etc. But some male vocals exhibit quite a resonance - almost sounds like a 'hooting' at certain frequencies
With the doubled front baffle in my cabinet there is a discrepancy between the plan volume and the actual volume of the compression chamber - it is enlarged by the diameter of the hole in the original front baffle (oversized to provide clearance to the sides of the driver) and the thickness of the plywood (pi*r^2*h=658cc) - less the volume of the added vertical brace (also different from the Fostex plan: 19mm*82mm*120mm=187cc). To make up the difference I caulked landscaping egg rock to the bottom of the compression chamber - calculating the volume by adding the rock to a partially filled measuring cup until the water level rose 470cc; or close enough. Adjusting the volume of the compression chamber affects the cut-off of the horn loading - a smaller box lowers the cut-off frequency. So you can also try adding acousta-stuf to 'enlarge' the box. After adding the egg rock and wrapping the driver magnet with felt the speaker was still pretty peaky at some frequencies. With music this is harder to detect than you would think - only on familiar pieces could I hear distortion as the emphasis of the notes was different due to the resonances. Not an unpleasant effect, but not entirely accurate either.
I ordered about ten square feet of 3/16" thick adhesive wool felt from MacMaster-Carr and proceeded to try combinations of layers in the compression chamber of the cabinets. You really cannot rush this process, since different styles of music behave quite differently and it takes time to listen for the changes across various examples, and to live with the sound at a variety of volumes, from a variety of sources (LP, CD, SACD, XM Satellite, FM). I found a hex bit that matched the stainless mounting bolts (button head cap screws) so I could use the portable drill to remove and re-install the drivers more quickly.
I also tried those Fostex HP devices... these are the plastic 'flower' shaped parts that Fostex sells to reduce standing resonances in cabinets. They come in the oddball number of five to a package, along with an dense explanation with frequency response graphs on the package (urk, in Japanese), with mounting screws and a shallow screwdriver. I initially installed one of these in each horn in the mouth up the back, out of sight. Frankly, I couldn't hear much the difference and now I had three units remaining... Next, Steve Killian and I tried one in the first segment of the horn, near the back panel - this was audible and a good improvement in overall intelligibility. I guess I need to buy another package of these if I want to experiment further. Yow, another $45, I need to think on this.
More felt was added over listening sessions until the resonances were mostly controlled but the sound was still pretty lively. The Bass was a little less defined, but the vocals are gripping.
Somewhere after a week or so of living with the new speakers, my curiousity got the better of me and I inserted the Chesky audio system tweaking CD and sat down with my Radio Shack sound level meter to see what the bass response looked like. Big mistake. It's a bit woogly in the lower midrange and high bass (300Hz to 120Hz) varying plus or minus 8 dB. From 120Hz on down is even wilder with significant dropout below 80Hz and almost nothing below 60Hz. Of course, this is mainly due to horrible room modes (1930's bungalow living room with plaster walls, 5 doors and a fireplace) but it sent me into a depression for a few days - how could I have thought that the bass was acceptable?
At that point I started moving the speakers around and trying alternate connections to the floor. I built the support legs with threaded inserts for 3/8-16 hardware, five points per cabinet. The initial installation used DIY shallow brass cones into plastic feet (to protect the hardwood floors in the LR). Replacing them with heavy steel equipment feet with rubber pads deepened the bass audibly. Raising them up to about 1.5 inches off the floor helped a lot!
'The Sound'
Maybe I should take a creative writing class to work on my descriptions of the sound of my system. In product design we don't really spend a lot of time trying to describe the look of something, or comparing the differences in surfaces -- we just show the object or photos of the design and let the 'object language' speak for itself. Similarly, music has it's own language in the brain, and I think that something is lost in my poor attempts at translating it into English; though other reviewer/poets have done admirable work in this vein. Even so, it's hard to hear this system over the web, so I'll try to give some idea of the effect...
*They make me want to listen again - they make music fun and interesting and hard to ignore
*Most music comes from the area between the speakers, but effects also project outside the cabinets. Music also has height above and below the drivers
*Even mono records (played with a stereo cartridge and system) have a spread of image across the area between and around the speakers
*They push the music out into the room - soloists and singers are in front of the speakers, some instruments sound further back
*They are hard to ignore visually - big suckers - and therefore the sound appears to be coming from the speakers; when you close your eyes the images are localized in various places across the room
Overall, well worth the time invested - not the ultimate speaker (not sure there is such a thing) but one with compromises I can live with for a long time. If you have a smallish room and like to listen at normal levels with good quality tube gear, these things sing. It's really too bad that there will be no more drivers like these, but then, Fostex may come up with something even better for the next special edition.
Finally, a short story: I took the speakers out of the main system for a weekend to take them to a Dixie Bottlehead meeting - installed a pair of B+W P5 floorstanders in their place. When I got back, Blithe said 'Thank God, you've brought the good speakers back - I can't listen to these at all - you've ruined me!'
/pRC
Zowie! Yeah man! Dig it!
MUSIC!
Pop! Zing! Pow! Zoom! Snap!
sotto voce... Crescendo!
Ahhhhhhh!
Notes on tweaking and sound
Two critical parts of getting this speaker settled -
Placement
Not much output on sides and back - cabinets are very thick and heavy and the layers of the plywood and internal baffles tends to dampen resonances
Use a laser level to adjust toe-in so that the centerlines cross in front of the listener...
Compression Chamber Tweakings
Initially played them empty - very lively, poppy sound - extremely good transients for drums, etc. But some male vocals exhibit quite a resonance - almost sounds like a 'hooting' at certain frequencies
With the doubled front baffle in my cabinet there is a discrepancy between the plan volume and the actual volume of the compression chamber - it is enlarged by the diameter of the hole in the original front baffle (oversized to provide clearance to the sides of the driver) and the thickness of the plywood (pi*r^2*h=658cc) - less the volume of the added vertical brace (also different from the Fostex plan: 19mm*82mm*120mm=187cc). To make up the difference I caulked landscaping egg rock to the bottom of the compression chamber - calculating the volume by adding the rock to a partially filled measuring cup until the water level rose 470cc; or close enough. Adjusting the volume of the compression chamber affects the cut-off of the horn loading - a smaller box lowers the cut-off frequency. So you can also try adding acousta-stuf to 'enlarge' the box. After adding the egg rock and wrapping the driver magnet with felt the speaker was still pretty peaky at some frequencies. With music this is harder to detect than you would think - only on familiar pieces could I hear distortion as the emphasis of the notes was different due to the resonances. Not an unpleasant effect, but not entirely accurate either.
I ordered about ten square feet of 3/16" thick adhesive wool felt from MacMaster-Carr and proceeded to try combinations of layers in the compression chamber of the cabinets. You really cannot rush this process, since different styles of music behave quite differently and it takes time to listen for the changes across various examples, and to live with the sound at a variety of volumes, from a variety of sources (LP, CD, SACD, XM Satellite, FM). I found a hex bit that matched the stainless mounting bolts (button head cap screws) so I could use the portable drill to remove and re-install the drivers more quickly.
I also tried those Fostex HP devices... these are the plastic 'flower' shaped parts that Fostex sells to reduce standing resonances in cabinets. They come in the oddball number of five to a package, along with an dense explanation with frequency response graphs on the package (urk, in Japanese), with mounting screws and a shallow screwdriver. I initially installed one of these in each horn in the mouth up the back, out of sight. Frankly, I couldn't hear much the difference and now I had three units remaining... Next, Steve Killian and I tried one in the first segment of the horn, near the back panel - this was audible and a good improvement in overall intelligibility. I guess I need to buy another package of these if I want to experiment further. Yow, another $45, I need to think on this.
More felt was added over listening sessions until the resonances were mostly controlled but the sound was still pretty lively. The Bass was a little less defined, but the vocals are gripping.
Somewhere after a week or so of living with the new speakers, my curiousity got the better of me and I inserted the Chesky audio system tweaking CD and sat down with my Radio Shack sound level meter to see what the bass response looked like. Big mistake. It's a bit woogly in the lower midrange and high bass (300Hz to 120Hz) varying plus or minus 8 dB. From 120Hz on down is even wilder with significant dropout below 80Hz and almost nothing below 60Hz. Of course, this is mainly due to horrible room modes (1930's bungalow living room with plaster walls, 5 doors and a fireplace) but it sent me into a depression for a few days - how could I have thought that the bass was acceptable?
At that point I started moving the speakers around and trying alternate connections to the floor. I built the support legs with threaded inserts for 3/8-16 hardware, five points per cabinet. The initial installation used DIY shallow brass cones into plastic feet (to protect the hardwood floors in the LR). Replacing them with heavy steel equipment feet with rubber pads deepened the bass audibly. Raising them up to about 1.5 inches off the floor helped a lot!
'The Sound'
Maybe I should take a creative writing class to work on my descriptions of the sound of my system. In product design we don't really spend a lot of time trying to describe the look of something, or comparing the differences in surfaces -- we just show the object or photos of the design and let the 'object language' speak for itself. Similarly, music has it's own language in the brain, and I think that something is lost in my poor attempts at translating it into English; though other reviewer/poets have done admirable work in this vein. Even so, it's hard to hear this system over the web, so I'll try to give some idea of the effect...
*They make me want to listen again - they make music fun and interesting and hard to ignore
*Most music comes from the area between the speakers, but effects also project outside the cabinets. Music also has height above and below the drivers
*Even mono records (played with a stereo cartridge and system) have a spread of image across the area between and around the speakers
*They push the music out into the room - soloists and singers are in front of the speakers, some instruments sound further back
*They are hard to ignore visually - big suckers - and therefore the sound appears to be coming from the speakers; when you close your eyes the images are localized in various places across the room
Overall, well worth the time invested - not the ultimate speaker (not sure there is such a thing) but one with compromises I can live with for a long time. If you have a smallish room and like to listen at normal levels with good quality tube gear, these things sing. It's really too bad that there will be no more drivers like these, but then, Fostex may come up with something even better for the next special edition.
Finally, a short story: I took the speakers out of the main system for a weekend to take them to a Dixie Bottlehead meeting - installed a pair of B+W P5 floorstanders in their place. When I got back, Blithe said 'Thank God, you've brought the good speakers back - I can't listen to these at all - you've ruined me!'
/pRC
Thanks for the replies - I thought this thread was getting pretty old but I guess some folks are still interested...
Planet10 - I've read contradictory theories, and heck I guess I can't know for sure without building a few boxes and measuring the results. Your passage seems to relate to the high-pass filter function of the compression chamber (at least, that's what I *think* I'm reading into it) but some other horn design opinions seem to be pointing to the low-pass behaviors, and that is what I was attempting to repeat.
Frankly, I wish the literature and web writings were more clear on this, and I'm probably confusing people as well, so I'll just shut up now!
The big coax speakers are my version of the Adire HE12.1 - see my page here:
http://cognitivevent.com/av_he12.html
After living with these for a while I became dissatisfied with the sound - the crossover region sounds confused unless you crank them louder than I normally am comfortable listening. On the other hand, they would make great club speakers - when cranked they really make the whole house bounce and are a lot of fun. Rolling Stones, Elvis Costello, live Blues all sound great at louder volumes - probably because these are made with PA speaker components.
I can't decide what to do with them - The cabinets are extremely (obsessively, compulsively) well built and the baffles are removable so they could be re-purposed for another set up (5.1 cubic feet volume works OK with some other woofers, maybe a bass box for an Azura horn system?). For now they are sitting under a blanket in the shop - maybe I should just mount the crossovers insides the cabinets and sell them locally. Anybody want to drive to Charlotte and pick them up?
Anyway, the Nagaoka FE166ES-R horns plainly work better on most of the music I listen to, and are a lot more fun at lower volumes. The Adires really only worked well for a narrow range of music, played loudly.
Thanks for the questions -
/pRC
Planet10 - I've read contradictory theories, and heck I guess I can't know for sure without building a few boxes and measuring the results. Your passage seems to relate to the high-pass filter function of the compression chamber (at least, that's what I *think* I'm reading into it) but some other horn design opinions seem to be pointing to the low-pass behaviors, and that is what I was attempting to repeat.
Frankly, I wish the literature and web writings were more clear on this, and I'm probably confusing people as well, so I'll just shut up now!
The big coax speakers are my version of the Adire HE12.1 - see my page here:
http://cognitivevent.com/av_he12.html
After living with these for a while I became dissatisfied with the sound - the crossover region sounds confused unless you crank them louder than I normally am comfortable listening. On the other hand, they would make great club speakers - when cranked they really make the whole house bounce and are a lot of fun. Rolling Stones, Elvis Costello, live Blues all sound great at louder volumes - probably because these are made with PA speaker components.
I can't decide what to do with them - The cabinets are extremely (obsessively, compulsively) well built and the baffles are removable so they could be re-purposed for another set up (5.1 cubic feet volume works OK with some other woofers, maybe a bass box for an Azura horn system?). For now they are sitting under a blanket in the shop - maybe I should just mount the crossovers insides the cabinets and sell them locally. Anybody want to drive to Charlotte and pick them up?
Anyway, the Nagaoka FE166ES-R horns plainly work better on most of the music I listen to, and are a lot more fun at lower volumes. The Adires really only worked well for a narrow range of music, played loudly.
Thanks for the questions -
/pRC
Oh yeah, about the images - I host them on my own webspace and then link to them directly in the forum code. Images are one of those things that still require a bit of extra effort - like the old days circa 1995 when I started, when we had to write all this HTML by hand in text editors...
I FTP the images into my website and then check to make sure I can link to it using a browser. Then I can cut and paste the image address from my website into the forum message form using the IMG brackets to tell the code how to display the link...
Maybe someone will figure out a way to host images in a board without extra finagling, but then the host would have to be continuously checking to make sure some porn king wasn't abusing their bandwidth, or that users weren't storing copyrighted materials and inviting nastygrams from the RIAA.
Urk, lawyers. Urk, porn. Urk, viruses. Urk, abusive users. Urk.
/pRC
I FTP the images into my website and then check to make sure I can link to it using a browser. Then I can cut and paste the image address from my website into the forum message form using the IMG brackets to tell the code how to display the link...
Maybe someone will figure out a way to host images in a board without extra finagling, but then the host would have to be continuously checking to make sure some porn king wasn't abusing their bandwidth, or that users weren't storing copyrighted materials and inviting nastygrams from the RIAA.
Urk, lawyers. Urk, porn. Urk, viruses. Urk, abusive users. Urk.
/pRC
pRC,
Thanx for the info on images. Apparently then the images that are stored on the DIY server are the ones I cannot view. Hmmmm.
I checked your website and noted recognition that I had seen that before. I too have a set of Selenium 12CO1P's and in my case they are totally unmolested. I have not experimented with driver tweeks as you did. I bought them for and they are in a massive pair of 50 Hz front horns that I built about 3 years ago, inspired by the Altec 210 VOT design for my HT in the basement. My flare is deeper and they go lower. They stand 76" high. 27 inches wide at the mouth and five feet deep. I agree with you that the build quality of this Selenium looks very fine. I note also that they are no longer available from PE, apparently discontinued for some time now. I am glad I got a set when I did. The horns themnselves need some tweeking, the major issue is a 1/4 standing wave resonance along the straight horn sidewalls from the mouth edge to the driver. This stores energy around 350 Hz and really sounds bad to my ears. A roll treatment on each vertical side of the horn should solve this problem (more compact treatments employing acoustic absorber technology would hurt the very high efficiency of this horn) but I do not have the room in my home for the roll mod since this would effectively double the width of the front of each cabinet. These speakers would be very good in a commercial movie theater application IMO.
Like you in your journey with the Fostex to better the Selenium/Adire coax, about two years ago I conceived, designed and built a set of unique combo open baffle transmission line arrays using 23 drivers in each that have been placed in front of the big horns and I have been blown away by their awesome fantasticness ever since. Come to think of it, I too noted that the Selenium seemed to sound better cranked up a bit even in the horn. I cannot listen to them at such high SPL levels for normal listening. My new array speakers have none of this issue and are as sweet at the lowest SPL's as they are playing loud.
Anyone want to buy a pair of 50 Hz hi-efficiency, full range front horns?
Thanx for the info on images. Apparently then the images that are stored on the DIY server are the ones I cannot view. Hmmmm.
I checked your website and noted recognition that I had seen that before. I too have a set of Selenium 12CO1P's and in my case they are totally unmolested. I have not experimented with driver tweeks as you did. I bought them for and they are in a massive pair of 50 Hz front horns that I built about 3 years ago, inspired by the Altec 210 VOT design for my HT in the basement. My flare is deeper and they go lower. They stand 76" high. 27 inches wide at the mouth and five feet deep. I agree with you that the build quality of this Selenium looks very fine. I note also that they are no longer available from PE, apparently discontinued for some time now. I am glad I got a set when I did. The horns themnselves need some tweeking, the major issue is a 1/4 standing wave resonance along the straight horn sidewalls from the mouth edge to the driver. This stores energy around 350 Hz and really sounds bad to my ears. A roll treatment on each vertical side of the horn should solve this problem (more compact treatments employing acoustic absorber technology would hurt the very high efficiency of this horn) but I do not have the room in my home for the roll mod since this would effectively double the width of the front of each cabinet. These speakers would be very good in a commercial movie theater application IMO.
Like you in your journey with the Fostex to better the Selenium/Adire coax, about two years ago I conceived, designed and built a set of unique combo open baffle transmission line arrays using 23 drivers in each that have been placed in front of the big horns and I have been blown away by their awesome fantasticness ever since. Come to think of it, I too noted that the Selenium seemed to sound better cranked up a bit even in the horn. I cannot listen to them at such high SPL levels for normal listening. My new array speakers have none of this issue and are as sweet at the lowest SPL's as they are playing loud.
Anyone want to buy a pair of 50 Hz hi-efficiency, full range front horns?
Last to the Party!
Hi Gang,
This thread is long dead and still, here I am, finally getting my cabinets together. I'll spare you the details of why and get to my questions.
How do I get rid of the PA speaker sound? Some vocals sound like they're sung through cupped hands. Also, there is a tendency for them to sound a little hard at moderately high volume. Inner detail and presence isn't quite what I was expecting either.
The drivers were run open with FM static for about 200 hours prior to assembly.
Cabinet treatment thus far consists of one layer of wool felt on the back and bottom of the compression chamber (not very dense, about 3/16" thick).
The drivers have duct seal in the gap between the basket and the magnet.
Internal wiring is Cardas SE-11. Speaker cables, for now are braided CAT5. If the speakers grow on me further, I'll replace that with SE-15.
Next steps I'm considering are doubling the felt and/or backing the driver with same.
Any other suggestions or ideas are welcome.
TIA,
Keith
Hi Gang,
This thread is long dead and still, here I am, finally getting my cabinets together. I'll spare you the details of why and get to my questions.
How do I get rid of the PA speaker sound? Some vocals sound like they're sung through cupped hands. Also, there is a tendency for them to sound a little hard at moderately high volume. Inner detail and presence isn't quite what I was expecting either.
The drivers were run open with FM static for about 200 hours prior to assembly.
Cabinet treatment thus far consists of one layer of wool felt on the back and bottom of the compression chamber (not very dense, about 3/16" thick).
The drivers have duct seal in the gap between the basket and the magnet.
Internal wiring is Cardas SE-11. Speaker cables, for now are braided CAT5. If the speakers grow on me further, I'll replace that with SE-15.
Next steps I'm considering are doubling the felt and/or backing the driver with same.
Any other suggestions or ideas are welcome.
TIA,
Keith
Re: Last to the Party!
We've been fighting the same on some of the horns we have been working with (including a Fostex design). GM diagnosed too small a compression chamber. We treated that ill (by enlarging the CC) and transformed the speaker. More over here on the Full Range Forum http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=328
I finally took my separated single strand Cat 5 cables (cryo-treated -- we haven't definitively shown that that has an effect) over to Chris' and compared them too his braided Cat 5. I had to leave them behind. Speaker cables do make a difference.
dave
Smashatoms said:
We've been fighting the same on some of the horns we have been working with (including a Fostex design). GM diagnosed too small a compression chamber. We treated that ill (by enlarging the CC) and transformed the speaker. More over here on the Full Range Forum http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=328
I finally took my separated single strand Cat 5 cables (cryo-treated -- we haven't definitively shown that that has an effect) over to Chris' and compared them too his braided Cat 5. I had to leave them behind. Speaker cables do make a difference.
dave
Much Better
After my initial listening sessions, I was concerned that it would take a lot to get these where I thought they should be. To my surprise, a 3x3 patch of felt on the back of each driver helped enormously! Cupped hands gone, much flatter response, boominess arrested. I'm thrilled with the improvement!
I'm going to try a little duct seal on the basket ribs (?) and see what that does. Otherwise, I think I'm done voicing and can move on to finishing the cabs.
Any recommentations on cabinet feet? Do spikes/cones yield any benefits with a BLH or should I just leave them sitting on the floor?
Thanks for tolerating a newbies posts to a dead thread.
Thanks Planet10 for the response.
After my initial listening sessions, I was concerned that it would take a lot to get these where I thought they should be. To my surprise, a 3x3 patch of felt on the back of each driver helped enormously! Cupped hands gone, much flatter response, boominess arrested. I'm thrilled with the improvement!
I'm going to try a little duct seal on the basket ribs (?) and see what that does. Otherwise, I think I'm done voicing and can move on to finishing the cabs.
Any recommentations on cabinet feet? Do spikes/cones yield any benefits with a BLH or should I just leave them sitting on the floor?
Thanks for tolerating a newbies posts to a dead thread.
Thanks Planet10 for the response.
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