Got them finished sooner than expected. Here is one pic, this is the best I can do right now till I get them home.
Now the break in will begin for about a week then I will revaluate. This gives me time to read that long a** thread on the enabl process. Wish there was a white paper on this that would break down the process.
Now the break in will begin for about a week then I will revaluate. This gives me time to read that long a** thread on the enabl process. Wish there was a white paper on this that would break down the process.
Those look nice! Reminds me of the Moth Audio Cicada only you now,...not red.
How about "MuthaFonken" (c'mon, on some level you had to know someone was going to say it)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Originally posted by planet 10
I'll have to come up with another name too, either for between the uber & the Fonken, or some name that indicates better than uber....
How about "MuthaFonken" (c'mon, on some level you had to know someone was going to say it)
Short version is in 3 posts by Bud starting on this page
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1429&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=105
Also have a look at the FE127 specifics in this thread (use the search this thread at the bottom)
I have my own twist to the treatment and am more than willing to share.
dave
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1429&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=105
Also have a look at the FE127 specifics in this thread (use the search this thread at the bottom)
I have my own twist to the treatment and am more than willing to share.
dave
ecir38 said:
<snip>
Now the break in will begin for about a week then I will revaluate. This gives me time to read that long a** thread on the enabl process. Wish there was a white paper on this that would break down the process.
well, there is, sort of - but it's difficult to consume the entire above mentioned thread without indigestion or at least distraction.
There is also a thread on the Hawthorne Audio Forum that is far less didactic and pedantic, and which includes a fairly succinct description of the physical process.
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1429
If all you really want to know is the patterns and materials to use for treating your drivers, then Dave at Planet10 is the guy. To date he's treated something like 30 prs of FE126/FE127, FF125K as well as several pairs of 3"/6"/8" Fostex, numerous CSSFR125's, CSS SDX7, Visaton B200, Pioneer B20's - I think it's fair to say that only Bud has more experience with the process on a wide range of drivers.
If you need hard scientific validation of how/why it works, good luck, but if anecdotal testimonials of EnABL's efficacy will suffice, those are abundant, myself included.
gurley123 said:Those look nice! Reminds me of the Moth Audio Cicada only you now,...not red.
Thanks, I probably shouldn't have rounded over the top, I think it looked better but it was to late once I put the router to it .
This is driving me nuts.
I think it was over on the decware forum that somebody said
"Stop pressing my woo-woo button"
Yeah, I'm really liking those. Nice little little decor-friendly speakers that don't need a stand and sound good to boot! They do look like baby Moths. Does that make them Catipillers?
I'm done with the bad jokes. Honestly
I think it was over on the decware forum that somebody said
"Stop pressing my woo-woo button"
Yeah, I'm really liking those. Nice little little decor-friendly speakers that don't need a stand and sound good to boot! They do look like baby Moths. Does that make them Catipillers?
I'm done with the bad jokes. Honestly
Re: This is driving me nuts.
ecir38
Can you take a picture with someone standing beside them to give a better idea of the scale of these?
dave
Yeah, I'm really liking those. Nice little little decor-friendly speakers that don't need a stand and sound good to boot!
ecir38
Can you take a picture with someone standing beside them to give a better idea of the scale of these?
dave
ecir38 said:Give me till Tuesday and I will get a pic like that. They are at work breaking in and I am off till then.
Dave, where do you buy you dammar? A link with a pick would be nice. I am working on a BOM for your ENABL process.
Note that the damar is part of my treatment and not EnABL.
Damar should be available at any art supply store...
one of a number of kinds at Dick Blick...
http://www.dickblick.com/zz004/38/
attached is a pic of my bottle
dave
Attachments
Re: Re: This is driving me nuts.
Dave, hopefully this is a better perspective of size, the armoire is 5'1". I just set this up in a spare bedroom, placement is not set yet.
Still can't take as nice of a picture as I would like, sorry.
planet10 said:
ecir38
Can you take a picture with someone standing beside them to give a better idea of the scale of these?
dave
Dave, hopefully this is a better perspective of size, the armoire is 5'1". I just set this up in a spare bedroom, placement is not set yet.
Still can't take as nice of a picture as I would like, sorry.
BudP said:ecir38,
MMMMM, mmmmmm, mmmmmm singing catepillars, ninja catepillars at that, all dressed in sleek black....and they will sing, even before EnABL and Damar war paint is applied.... singing ninja catepillars.... too cool.
Bud
LOL and sing they do, the more I listen the more I like this driver .
planet10 said:Here is a pic of a cone with the pre-treatment applied -- damar for the trifoil pattern, plus 2 thinned coats of puzzlekoat on top.
dave
Thanks for the pic, that pic and Bud's comment is just what i needed to push me to enabl. From what I read so far I understand that your and Bud's enabl processes are differant and I like your war paint with the extra twist.
If I understand what I read so far, your pre-treatment with the damar and and puzzlecoat is what you do before applying the blocks for enabling and the puzzlecoat has a plus side of allowing cleanup if you have an error. (does the banana get completly covered with the polly scale acrylic before applying the blocks?)
It looks like the suspension for the driver has puzzlecoat applied to them too, is this correct?
One last question. What brush have you and Bud found to be the best for applying the puzzlecoat or polly scale to the banana? Whenever painting anything, I have learned a good quality brust goes a long way on the results you get. A link would be nice to get a better piture.
Thanks
ecir38 said:
LOL and sing they do, the more I listen the more I like this driver .
Thanks for the pic, that pic and Bud's comment is just what i needed to push me to enabl. From what I read so far I understand that your and Bud's enabl processes are differant and I like your war paint with the extra twist.
the damar "trifoil" pattern was been used on these drivers before we discovered Bud's EnABL. While he has yet to hear the combination (an oversight we hope to soon remedy), they are synergistic.
It looks like the suspension for the driver has puzzlecoat applied to them too, is this correct?
I think that's just the stock treated fabric of the surround - sometimes the proximity of direct camera flash creates visual artifacts
Originally posted by Budp
ecir38,
MMMMM, mmmmmm, mmmmmm singing catepillars, ninja catepillars at that, all dressed in sleek black....and they will sing, even before EnABL and Damar war paint is applied.... singing ninja catepillars.... too cool.
Bud
I think your wife has been adding a little something extra to your morning coffee (besides the little blue pill) - I could use some of that
(both, actually) ...
cheers
ecir38 said:If I understand what I read so far, your pre-treatment with the damar and and puzzlecoat is what you do before applying the blocks for enabling and the puzzlecoat has a plus side of allowing cleanup if you have an error. (does the banana get completly covered with the polly scale acrylic before applying the blocks?)
The pretreatment has 2 coats of thinned puzzlecoat over the whole cone after the damar pattern (i specifically use the Mod Podeg gloss brand). Then the pollyscale flat EnABL blocks/spots are added, then i use 3 coats of 50% microgloss on top of that (each successive coat uses less paint,
The puzzlecoat allows for some error recover, but it has to be done quickly and not aggressively. A dry Q-tip to wick up the bad spot (don't rub, just dab), and then if necessary a wet one. This can still leave a bit of a stain sometimes). The puzzlecoat means less wicking of the acriylic into the paper fibres for a tidier application and more distinct edges and also leaves the spots to sit higher on the cone, but this is probably immaterial.
One last question. What brush have you and Bud found to be the best for applying the puzzlecoat or polly scale to the banana? Whenever painting anything, I have learned a good quality brust goes a long way on the results you get. A link would be nice to get a better piture.
The local Micheals has starter brush kits for $10 with a number of sizes & kinds. . I just get these, giving the brushes i don't use to the godson. 2 brushes are used for the damar and discarded after use. Puzzlecoat get sthe yellow brushes with the white bristles, and the gloss gets the blue brushes with the brown bristles -- i think they are both synthetic, but that is all i can say about them.
I can take pictures (but not now)
dave
Thanks to both of ya"ll for your replies. Just the few post in this thread has painted a very clear picture for me on how your Dave enabl process is done. Just need to now start ordering the supplies needed. I looks to me that the hardest part will be leaning how to use the A-1 through A-5 and #56 tips and of course getting the right consistancy to apply the damar, puzzlecoat and micro coat gloss.
Dave, can you provide an attachment for what you use for the FE127? Or do you still use the radial CSS FR125 patterns http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/EnABL/FR-WR-125-pattern.pdf
Is this the Michael's store? http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=fa0132
I have one close to me.
Dave, can you provide an attachment for what you use for the FE127? Or do you still use the radial CSS FR125 patterns http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/EnABL/FR-WR-125-pattern.pdf
Is this the Michael's store? http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=fa0132
I have one close to me.
ecir38.
Here are the posts from the EnABL thread discussing that treatment. Use Dave's amount of gloss, as my original coating had no Damar or Puzzle coat. The PDF on the first one has the patterns for application of spots.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1224615#post1224615 post 241
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1225189#post1225189 post 247
Here are some pictures showing what, where, how good is good enough, etc.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvin...ex127ETreatment
Again, if there is a disagreement between Dave and my instructions follow Dave's, rather than mine.
Bud
Here are the posts from the EnABL thread discussing that treatment. Use Dave's amount of gloss, as my original coating had no Damar or Puzzle coat. The PDF on the first one has the patterns for application of spots.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1224615#post1224615 post 241
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1225189#post1225189 post 247
Here are some pictures showing what, where, how good is good enough, etc.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvin...ex127ETreatment
Again, if there is a disagreement between Dave and my instructions follow Dave's, rather than mine.
Bud
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