mrothacher said:Sorry about my so-so photo. There was a strong backlight.
Very much intersted in. . .
By the way, do you have any drawing of the baffle/bracket sizes? If so, could I have get one copy of it?
I'm going to make a similar one, using JX92s speaker with an woofer having the following spec:
Nominal dia. 12in
Rated impedance 8 ohms
Sesitivity 100 dB 1W @ 1m
Frequency range 30-5000 Hz
Voice coil dia. 3in
Many thanks!
mrothacher said:Sorry about my so-so photo. There was a strong backlight.
One more....
Jan Didden
Attachments
Nelson Pass said:...a passive crossover.
Why passive? Could you share any info about that crossover?
Thanks,
Vix
There's a First Watt mention in the Enjoy the Music coverage (second item, showing the B1) - http://www.enjoythemusic.com/rmaf_2008/saturday/
The Crossover
Hi Folks:
Information will be added to my website about this speaker as a DIY. An article for EnjoyTheMusic.com's new DIY e-zine will be coming out shortly.
But in the meanwhile, I used a 52uf cap and a 12 mH coil as a single order, series crossover. This was a 16 ohm system, use 104uf and 6mH for an 8 ohm system.
By series crossover I mean:
Capacitor parallel with the woofer (Tone Tubby 12 Alnico 16 ohm)
Inductor parallel with the fullrange (Lowther PM6A, ticonal, 15 ohm, silver voice coil)
Amp to + of fullrange. - of fullrange to + of woofer. - of woofer to - of amp.
Baffle is 18" wide, 40" tall. Fullrange centered 9" from the top edge. Woofer is centered 9" from the bottom edge. Wings to each side are 12" at base, tapered with a 5 degree angle on the front and rear. Wings are 21" tall.
If this is not clear, just write and I will send a drawing & schematic to anyone who ask.
Jon at Lowther-America dot com You know how to correct this!
Hi Folks:
Information will be added to my website about this speaker as a DIY. An article for EnjoyTheMusic.com's new DIY e-zine will be coming out shortly.
But in the meanwhile, I used a 52uf cap and a 12 mH coil as a single order, series crossover. This was a 16 ohm system, use 104uf and 6mH for an 8 ohm system.
By series crossover I mean:
Capacitor parallel with the woofer (Tone Tubby 12 Alnico 16 ohm)
Inductor parallel with the fullrange (Lowther PM6A, ticonal, 15 ohm, silver voice coil)
Amp to + of fullrange. - of fullrange to + of woofer. - of woofer to - of amp.
Baffle is 18" wide, 40" tall. Fullrange centered 9" from the top edge. Woofer is centered 9" from the bottom edge. Wings to each side are 12" at base, tapered with a 5 degree angle on the front and rear. Wings are 21" tall.
If this is not clear, just write and I will send a drawing & schematic to anyone who ask.
Jon at Lowther-America dot com You know how to correct this!
Re: The Crossover
Great, many thanks!
I will send you mail asking the drawing and schematic.
Cheers,
Jon Ver Halen said:Hi Folks:
Information will be added to my website about this speaker as a DIY. An article for EnjoyTheMusic.com's new DIY e-zine will be coming out shortly.
But in the meanwhile, I used a 52uf cap and a 12 mH coil as a single order, series crossover. This was a 16 ohm system, use 104uf and 6mH for an 8 ohm system.
By series crossover I mean:
Capacitor parallel with the woofer (Tone Tubby 12 Alnico 16 ohm)
Inductor parallel with the fullrange (Lowther PM6A, ticonal, 15 ohm, silver voice coil)
Amp to + of fullrange. - of fullrange to + of woofer. - of woofer to - of amp.
Baffle is 18" wide, 40" tall. Fullrange centered 9" from the top edge. Woofer is centered 9" from the bottom edge. Wings to each side are 12" at base, tapered with a 5 degree angle on the front and rear. Wings are 21" tall.
If this is not clear, just write and I will send a drawing & schematic to anyone who ask.
Jon at Lowther-America dot com You know how to correct this!
Great, many thanks!
I will send you mail asking the drawing and schematic.
Cheers,
Attachments
Re: sketch for Babo
Thanks, Zen Mode.
Your sketch gives me a clear illustrative picture.
Cheers,
Zen Mod said:
Thanks, Zen Mode.
Your sketch gives me a clear illustrative picture.
Cheers,
Re: The Crossover
Attached is my sketch of the open baffle based on yout kind input.
If my interpretation is correct, kindly forget my mail sent to you, asking your drawing and schematic.
Cheers,
Jon Ver Halen said:
Baffle is 18" wide, 40" tall. Fullrange centered 9" from the top edge. Woofer is centered 9" from the bottom edge. Wings to each side are 12" at base, tapered with a 5 degree angle on the front and rear. Wings are 21" tall.
Attached is my sketch of the open baffle based on yout kind input.
If my interpretation is correct, kindly forget my mail sent to you, asking your drawing and schematic.
Cheers,
Attachments
You are real close
Hi Bobowana:
Sorry, I never did get your e-mail, otherwise I would have replied by now. Your sketch is pretty good. The side wings have a 5 degree tilt to them, you have something a bit more than that. The offset at the top of the wing should be 43mm, you show it as 50mm.
Overall width is closer to 460mm. If I had to build it again, the driver would be slightly offset to one side. Right now it is the same distance from the center of the driver to each side and to the top. I would move it 25mm to one side, so that each of those distances is slightly different.
I used 18mm baltic birch for the initial trials. Then switched to 45mm thick maple. Maple did sound better, it is more rigid. Be sure to use spikes between the floor and the baffle, they help a lot.
Hi Bobowana:
Sorry, I never did get your e-mail, otherwise I would have replied by now. Your sketch is pretty good. The side wings have a 5 degree tilt to them, you have something a bit more than that. The offset at the top of the wing should be 43mm, you show it as 50mm.
Overall width is closer to 460mm. If I had to build it again, the driver would be slightly offset to one side. Right now it is the same distance from the center of the driver to each side and to the top. I would move it 25mm to one side, so that each of those distances is slightly different.
I used 18mm baltic birch for the initial trials. Then switched to 45mm thick maple. Maple did sound better, it is more rigid. Be sure to use spikes between the floor and the baffle, they help a lot.
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