Hi everyone,
This is going to be the very first time I'm going to diy a speaker or sub in this case. I have settled on starting with vented sub-woofer and I'm looking at 2 brands. Sundown Audio and Stereo Integrity.
I want to build a 15" subwoofer (although from SI's website it looks like they only have 12" or 18").
Does anyone have a recommendation? Even if it is another brand. Links below.
Thanks in advance!
Subwoofers
Subs | Product Categories | Stereo Integrity
This is going to be the very first time I'm going to diy a speaker or sub in this case. I have settled on starting with vented sub-woofer and I'm looking at 2 brands. Sundown Audio and Stereo Integrity.
I want to build a 15" subwoofer (although from SI's website it looks like they only have 12" or 18").
Does anyone have a recommendation? Even if it is another brand. Links below.
Thanks in advance!
Subwoofers
Subs | Product Categories | Stereo Integrity
Car audio is not hi-fi.
These speakers have an enormous gigantic moving mass and massives excursions.
Clearly not designed for fidelity... what is your goal ?
Fidelity or funny visceral massages ?
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I am looking to build an SDX 12 Quartet in the near future. It is a 12" with dual APRs (passive radiators). Can be done for under $750 and would outperform many 15" subs in a reasonable enclosure size (18" cube).
Creative Sound - Product Details
Roughly how big is the room you would like to install this subwoofer in?
Creative Sound - Product Details
Roughly how big is the room you would like to install this subwoofer in?
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My friend has a dual 18 inch setup using SI drivers and had a 15 inch setup previously.
They work fantastically well in his Home theatre, with extremely high output and low distortion.
Need lots of current to drive them correctly.
I think these are the drivers.
http://stereointegrity.com/product/ds4-18-subwoofer/
They work fantastically well in his Home theatre, with extremely high output and low distortion.
Need lots of current to drive them correctly.
I think these are the drivers.
http://stereointegrity.com/product/ds4-18-subwoofer/
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Fane 15's or 18's
www.bluearan.co.uk
www.bluearan.co.uk
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Is it not the case that a large driver moving a tiny excursion will have better fidelity than a small driver moving a large excursion, due to being less stressed?
I recall that Josh Ricci said the RF 19" monster driver he recently tested sounded like a pro driver, yet it's designed for ridiculous excursion and is far from small, and the SI 24" driver is said to sound very musical.
It has a high ratio of output to size and quite decent extension. Judging by the graphs I've seen it should hit 15 or 16 Hz without much trouble. I've also heard good things about the sound quality. It has a pretty monstrous throw of 28mm which means the swept volume is comparable to many 15" and 18".
1k total budget would be ideal. I'm not struggling for space. I can accommodate 4 feet square I believe .
Which raises a question. If these speakers can extend far, should I make a sealed box to save space? Will they still achieve the desired results in a sealed box?
If I had 1K to spend on a subwoofer system my first suggestion would be to build a pair of subs instead of just one large one. Multiple subs goes a long way towards evening out room issues.
My second suggestion would be to look into some of the "Wrecker" horn designs by lilmike on AVS forums. I've built a PicoWrecker and it worked very well. If you have the space and want more output either a MicroWrecker or LilWrecker will mostly likely give you more output than you know what to do with when paired with an amp like a Behringer NU3000DSP. If you don't want to go down the horn route you might take a look at the "Marty" series of subs. All of these choices will be easy to end up with two subs and an amp for under $1k.
My second suggestion would be to look into some of the "Wrecker" horn designs by lilmike on AVS forums. I've built a PicoWrecker and it worked very well. If you have the space and want more output either a MicroWrecker or LilWrecker will mostly likely give you more output than you know what to do with when paired with an amp like a Behringer NU3000DSP. If you don't want to go down the horn route you might take a look at the "Marty" series of subs. All of these choices will be easy to end up with two subs and an amp for under $1k.
Near your budget ... 1Kg of mms for 1K$.
It should destroy anything
HS24 Dual 2 ohm voice coils
Re 3.6 ohms
Fs 19.6 Hz
Qes 0.50
Qms 6.4
Qts 0.46
Le 4.2 mH
Sd 212943.8 mm^2
Vas 459 L
Bl 28.6
Mms 924 g
If you choose this one... take care to don't destroy your house (I'M NOT JOKING).
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A sealed box usually gives a more linear response in room, imo.
However, to achieve the very lowest frequencies you will need more power and more drive unit excursion than a ported or Passive Radiator box.
A sealed box will not save space, the box needs to be bigger than a ported or PR box.
Silverprout, I'm looking to live in my house a little while longer . That and the wife will kill me.
MIKEVO, from what I read and understand a sealed box is smaller. Did I miss something?
I'm really leaning towards these 2 drivers:
HST18mkII 18″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity
HST12mkII 12″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity
If I understand the fs/Qes the 12" can be used either ported or sealed and the 18 is better sealed.
Are there more factors that I need to consider?
. That and the wife will kill me.MIKEVO, from what I read and understand a sealed box is smaller. Did I miss something?
I'm really leaning towards these 2 drivers:
HST18mkII 18″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity
HST12mkII 12″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity
If I understand the fs/Qes the 12" can be used either ported or sealed and the 18 is better sealed.
Are there more factors that I need to consider?
Buy two of these @ $259 each + shipping.
Add an Behringer iNuke6000DSP for $400, giving 2200wRMS per stereo channel @ 4Ohm.
Build a sealed, ~8cuft dual opposed box with dimensions of 2'x2'x2'.
Et voila... motion cancelling, lots of extension with EQ using the amp's inbuilt DSP, no risk of unloading underneath port tuning, and all for only a smidge over $1000.
For a first timer,
I'd suggest build a ported subwoofer using this Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm . Sometimes goes a bit cheaper if you can find a partsexpress coupon on the www
Tune it to about 23 - 25 Hz with a "slight" 30 Hz bump. This will give you a good balance between punch , extension and size . Sorry I don't have the measurements for the enclosure I built for it a few years ago. If you chase sub 20 Hz, you had better be ready to build something large . If you do want to go that route, .. the easiest / cheapest way would be to implement an EBS tuned sonotube (probably better for home theater than music as it will lack some of the slam). Some background info at http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ported5.htm
Use a flared 4" dia port
If you're up for something more, consider the PPSL ideas suggested her, but for a beginner - consider my advise.
I'd suggest build a ported subwoofer using this Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm . Sometimes goes a bit cheaper if you can find a partsexpress coupon on the www
Tune it to about 23 - 25 Hz with a "slight" 30 Hz bump. This will give you a good balance between punch , extension and size . Sorry I don't have the measurements for the enclosure I built for it a few years ago. If you chase sub 20 Hz, you had better be ready to build something large . If you do want to go that route, .. the easiest / cheapest way would be to implement an EBS tuned sonotube (probably better for home theater than music as it will lack some of the slam). Some background info at http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ported5.htm
Use a flared 4" dia port
If you're up for something more, consider the PPSL ideas suggested her, but for a beginner - consider my advise.
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Thanks for the advice Zobsky. I did consider getting something less expensive, but I know my self. If I don't get what I would consider to be a "Cadillac" I will be disappointed. An I will spend more money to get what I wanted originally.
Unless you guys who do have experience (which is why I'm here) with this tell me that for my objective of reaching those very low LFE there is no difference.
On a side note I am going to take the Martysub approach to building. I found it really detailed.
Unless you guys who do have experience (which is why I'm here) with this tell me that for my objective of reaching those very low LFE there is no difference.
On a side note I am going to take the Martysub approach to building. I found it really detailed.
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