The down port will work ok, if you take care to make the crossover box as stiff as possible.
I'd squeeze another 10" or put a 12" driver instead in the box, and I'm afraid that you'll find after you build the speakers that at least 3ft is required behind the speaker to have a good 'soundstage' anyway.
I'd squeeze another 10" or put a 12" driver instead in the box, and I'm afraid that you'll find after you build the speakers that at least 3ft is required behind the speaker to have a good 'soundstage' anyway.
From what I can tell from simulating stuff in WinISD, the ported layout extends the bass while still keeping it a natural 0dB relative to the other drivers at higher frequencies. All the drivers are 91dB efficient (apart from the 10", which is 93), so I assume this means that the crossover design will be simplified, as there are no drivers more efficient than others (again apart from the 10") that may need some kind of attenuation to balance them out. I'm only guessing on this point though, as I don't know nearly enough about crossover design yet and how it is possible to account for such things.
I plan to build the crossover box from the same 1" MDF as the rest, plus the weird shaped cone (is there a propper name for it?) thing should smooth the flow out of the port and make the air flow along the surface of the crossover box, rather than just crashing into it creating lots of turbulence.
The speakers are over 2feet deep, and if the port fired backwards this would only leave less than a foot between the port and wall, surely this wouldnt be enough? or would it?
anyway, this pic and the next pic is a comparison of sealed and vented, and sealed with two drivers. From what I can tell, ported is much better, but please correct me if Im wrong!
I plan to build the crossover box from the same 1" MDF as the rest, plus the weird shaped cone (is there a propper name for it?) thing should smooth the flow out of the port and make the air flow along the surface of the crossover box, rather than just crashing into it creating lots of turbulence.
The speakers are over 2feet deep, and if the port fired backwards this would only leave less than a foot between the port and wall, surely this wouldnt be enough? or would it?
anyway, this pic and the next pic is a comparison of sealed and vented, and sealed with two drivers. From what I can tell, ported is much better, but please correct me if Im wrong!
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And the simulated SPL... though I presume that each driver is consuming equal amounts of power...i.e. in this simulation the twin sealed driver configuration is consuming 2watts, not 1 like the other two traces. I doubt this is too realistic, but thats not really what im looking to prove anyway....i think...
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Do you like the look of the trumpets or are they there for some other mounting issue?
If you just want to flush mount the drivers, I think what you can do is just cut a hole larger than the overall diameter of the driver. Then cut a mdf donut to fit snugly inside the hole in the granite. If you epoxy the mdf ring to the granite, then you just secure the driver to the mdf ring.
I'm still toying with the idea of cast concrete baffle for the speakers I'm planning. I was going to do a fake-vinyl covered baffle like the Sonus Faber speakers, but concrete might be cool as well.
If you just want to flush mount the drivers, I think what you can do is just cut a hole larger than the overall diameter of the driver. Then cut a mdf donut to fit snugly inside the hole in the granite. If you epoxy the mdf ring to the granite, then you just secure the driver to the mdf ring.
I'm still toying with the idea of cast concrete baffle for the speakers I'm planning. I was going to do a fake-vinyl covered baffle like the Sonus Faber speakers, but concrete might be cool as well.
Hi,
Bit of both really. I do like the look of them, and I was just toying with the idea of flush mounting the trumpets, but decided not to bother as I assume that the accuracy of the hole cut in the granite will be relatively quite poor. I'm also now doing it for rigidity reasons as discussed earlier, so I can get away with solid mounting the mid and tweeter.
The Kef Reference stuff looks like it has a similar idea, just not quite as large, and they work quite well.
I was a bit tempted by the concrete idea, but granite does look much prettier and is harder and stiffer, and it would be tricky making a mould and compensating for shrinkage etc.
What do you mean by fake-vinyl? fake leather is a form of vinyl, leatherette I think it's called, made by ICI. Couldn't you use propper leather? Not quite sure what fake vinyl would be.
Bit of both really. I do like the look of them, and I was just toying with the idea of flush mounting the trumpets, but decided not to bother as I assume that the accuracy of the hole cut in the granite will be relatively quite poor. I'm also now doing it for rigidity reasons as discussed earlier, so I can get away with solid mounting the mid and tweeter.
The Kef Reference stuff looks like it has a similar idea, just not quite as large, and they work quite well.
I was a bit tempted by the concrete idea, but granite does look much prettier and is harder and stiffer, and it would be tricky making a mould and compensating for shrinkage etc.
What do you mean by fake-vinyl? fake leather is a form of vinyl, leatherette I think it's called, made by ICI. Couldn't you use propper leather? Not quite sure what fake vinyl would be.
I meant fake-leather,
www.selectproducts.com sells a heat-stretch vinyl that works well to cover unique shapes.
I'm not sure about dimensional shift when casting concrete. If you have a mdf mockup of your driver and cast around that, you're almost assured a nice fit.
www.selectproducts.com sells a heat-stretch vinyl that works well to cover unique shapes.
I'm not sure about dimensional shift when casting concrete. If you have a mdf mockup of your driver and cast around that, you're almost assured a nice fit.
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