Banned
Joined 2002
chris ma said:So Peter,
The warranty also covers for any tempering too? Wow ..I bow to you wholehearty
But Peter please think it over again or may be seek different opinions from the like of the one and only etc etc...
we do care for yo...uu..er.., your excellent diy skill...
Chris
That's why I was considering including two spare chips with the amp. If someone is skilled enough to open the amp and play with wires, in case he damages the chip, he can also replace the chip (the only active part inside the amp) himself instead of sending unit for reapair and waiting a month or more
nobody special said:
Some might be able, but they don't have enough time or don't want to be bothered.
Some have friends who volunteer to "improve" the performance.
Some decide to do it first time.
Some have friends, who can replace the chip, the only problem they don't know where to get it from.
Just few possibilities, of course.
Banned
Joined 2002
Don't know if you ever go over to Audio Asylum at all, but thought you might
be interested in this:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/278412.html
be interested in this:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/278412.html
Hi Peter,
I was just wondering what caps you used in the amp1?
I thought you were using two 1000 uf BG N's per rail, but my memory is not what it used to be . From the picture, looks like you used one cap per rail, and it's not red, so I don't think it's a BG N.
Slightly off topic, but have you ever tried the 2200uf BG FK's? They are quite a bit cheaper than two 1000uf BG N's.
Thanks,
Randy
I was just wondering what caps you used in the amp1?
I thought you were using two 1000 uf BG N's per rail, but my memory is not what it used to be
. From the picture, looks like you used one cap per rail, and it's not red, so I don't think it's a BG N.Slightly off topic, but have you ever tried the 2200uf BG FK's? They are quite a bit cheaper than two 1000uf BG N's.
Thanks,
Randy
In a production amp I'm using 4 cas per amp, 2 per channel, one per rail. It's 1000u/50V standard BG. In my personal amp, I'm using 1000u/50V BG N caps (which BTW are black not red), but some people commented they don't sound as good in the amp as the standard ones. This was shortly after I installed them, so they were alos not broken in properly. My obsevation is they provide more laid back sound, more finese and air. But at $70 pc. they might not be such a good value and everybody's cup of tea. So far I'm not really recommending them. I didn't try FK series.
Firstly, many congratulations on your review and here's to future financial success!
As for certifications, you will probably have to seek CRTC and FCC compliance for RFI because it is an electronic device.
Your power supply is a separate unit so it will require a different set of certifications and also include safety certifications because of the power mains. (This is actually the reason many new devices use an off-the-shelf PS so that the mfg doesn't need to get the safety certificates for their actual unit as - no mains - the PS vendor has already done it.)
Both UL and CSA provide testing that will either provide compliance or show where it needs to be modified. Check the CSA site for more.
www.csa.ca
CSA is far better than UL at the actual work and the details, but UL is trying to monopolize the US market but being less cooperative about accepting CSA certification at par. Depending on the circumstances, you may be better getting UL. However, if the CSA tests are accepted in the US, then usually CSA is less expensive.
Here is the big caveat. If the testing shows that the unit needs modification in order to pass compliance, any changes are absolutely required, which means you may completely change the sonic characteristics.
ensen.
As for certifications, you will probably have to seek CRTC and FCC compliance for RFI because it is an electronic device.
Your power supply is a separate unit so it will require a different set of certifications and also include safety certifications because of the power mains. (This is actually the reason many new devices use an off-the-shelf PS so that the mfg doesn't need to get the safety certificates for their actual unit as - no mains - the PS vendor has already done it.)
Both UL and CSA provide testing that will either provide compliance or show where it needs to be modified. Check the CSA site for more.
www.csa.ca
CSA is far better than UL at the actual work and the details, but UL is trying to monopolize the US market but being less cooperative about accepting CSA certification at par. Depending on the circumstances, you may be better getting UL. However, if the CSA tests are accepted in the US, then usually CSA is less expensive.
Here is the big caveat. If the testing shows that the unit needs modification in order to pass compliance, any changes are absolutely required, which means you may completely change the sonic characteristics.
ensen.
Better late than never...
Congratulations Peter, well deserved review and hope it pays back all the effort with added profits!!!
10 years guatanty is nice as introduction appeal but I agree with others that you should cut back on this at the appropiate time, even if you use top graded components. Abuse of the product will be the most likely cause of failure and you can't avoid that.
Hope you sell more than what you expected.
This is a dreem come true to many DIY's.
Congratulations Peter, well deserved review and hope it pays back all the effort with added profits!!!
10 years guatanty is nice as introduction appeal but I agree with others that you should cut back on this at the appropiate time, even if you use top graded components. Abuse of the product will be the most likely cause of failure and you can't avoid that.
Hope you sell more than what you expected.
This is a dreem come true to many DIY's.
Peter,
Including two spare amp chips would only encourage some owners to clone your clone !.
I understand that you suggest this for sonics/batch consistent reasons, but if you get a failure it would be economical to replace both amps from the same more recent batch anyway.
The main failure mode of most modern equipment is duff solder joints causing consequential failures.
So long as you tin all joints properly before final assembly you should have no such troubles.
The only failure mode to be expected would be electrolytic cap failure, and this is a time/temperature related equation.
If your GC runs cool you should have pretty much ultimate reliability, especially with the extensive self protection in the chip.
At this pricing level it isappropriate and advantageous to offer your 10 year warranty period, and I expect that you should have very few if any claims during the warranty period.
If you use power transformers with integral thermal fuse (standard in Jap gear) I expect that any compliance testing would be a matter of course.
Eric.
Including two spare amp chips would only encourage some owners to clone your clone !.
I understand that you suggest this for sonics/batch consistent reasons, but if you get a failure it would be economical to replace both amps from the same more recent batch anyway.
The main failure mode of most modern equipment is duff solder joints causing consequential failures.
So long as you tin all joints properly before final assembly you should have no such troubles.
The only failure mode to be expected would be electrolytic cap failure, and this is a time/temperature related equation.
If your GC runs cool you should have pretty much ultimate reliability, especially with the extensive self protection in the chip.
At this pricing level it isappropriate and advantageous to offer your 10 year warranty period, and I expect that you should have very few if any claims during the warranty period.
If you use power transformers with integral thermal fuse (standard in Jap gear) I expect that any compliance testing would be a matter of course.
Eric.
Building up goodwill
Another matter to consider is the reputation of AMP-1, the original quality/ factory spec should always be protected or maintained. High End audio gears best friend is words of mouth, if there were one badly tampered unit went from one owner to the next, people that not aware of the history of that unit might start to bad mouth AMP-1 in their social circles. Untold damage can easily set in people’s perception and very difficult to regain goodwill afterwards.
Chris
Another matter to consider is the reputation of AMP-1, the original quality/ factory spec should always be protected or maintained. High End audio gears best friend is words of mouth, if there were one badly tampered unit went from one owner to the next, people that not aware of the history of that unit might start to bad mouth AMP-1 in their social circles. Untold damage can easily set in people’s perception and very difficult to regain goodwill afterwards.
Chris
Re: Building up goodwill
That's a good point, and something I wouldn't have thought of. I think Peter would be better off trying to seperate this amp from it's DIY roots... leaving it open to modification will only lead to trouble, in my opinion. Image is everything in audio, unfortunately, and by distancing the amp from it's DIY roots, I think you will be more successful in marketing it. People might not give it the respect it deserves if you do not give the impression that it is something special, which they may think if you leave the design open to modification.
I mean, WE all know that you have tweaked this amp to what it is. WE all know your reputation for excellent build quality and good taste. But, we are not the ones who will be buying this amp, most likely. Your target market is a group of people that take pride in purchasing something that is unique, special, etc. Something to keep in mind.
chris ma said:
That's a good point, and something I wouldn't have thought of. I think Peter would be better off trying to seperate this amp from it's DIY roots... leaving it open to modification will only lead to trouble, in my opinion. Image is everything in audio, unfortunately, and by distancing the amp from it's DIY roots, I think you will be more successful in marketing it. People might not give it the respect it deserves if you do not give the impression that it is something special, which they may think if you leave the design open to modification.
I mean, WE all know that you have tweaked this amp to what it is. WE all know your reputation for excellent build quality and good taste. But, we are not the ones who will be buying this amp, most likely. Your target market is a group of people that take pride in purchasing something that is unique, special, etc. Something to keep in mind.
Peter, what value of feedback resistor did you
ended up using in your Amp 1. From the spec of
30dB gain and assuming that you use this formula
30dB = 20log30
the feedback resistor must be 300K (assuming a 10K
input resistor). But I thought in one of your
post that you said that a 250K sounded better?
WHen I go from 220K to 300K feedback (using ordinary carbon resistor) there seems to be more
presence ie the sound is less relaxed than with the 220K which I like, but I think the distortion is more also.
I think distortion is higher because I keep wanting to turn down the volume when a
music passage gets louder, especially with vocal.
I am using pretty sensitive speakers (97dB, Pi Speakers pro using all JBL component). Does anyone else notice this?
ended up using in your Amp 1. From the spec of
30dB gain and assuming that you use this formula
30dB = 20log30
the feedback resistor must be 300K (assuming a 10K
input resistor). But I thought in one of your
post that you said that a 250K sounded better?
WHen I go from 220K to 300K feedback (using ordinary carbon resistor) there seems to be more
presence ie the sound is less relaxed than with the 220K which I like, but I think the distortion is more also.
I think distortion is higher because I keep wanting to turn down the volume when a
music passage gets louder, especially with vocal.
I am using pretty sensitive speakers (97dB, Pi Speakers pro using all JBL component). Does anyone else notice this?
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