Good! I had some lm4766 that i salvaged out of a old home theater receiver and i haven't decided what to do with them. They are stereo in one chip or you can bridge them for more power!
I have bought most of my transformers from parts-express.com but mouser and digikey are very good for quality. As for the chassis i bought a few from a seller on ebay called dmsengineering I like their chassis and the price is very good. If you have metal fabrication skills you can get metal and make a chassis fairly easy but its not as cost effective.
If you decide to go class a you should look at Jlh amp simple circuitry and well documented
I have build one and its higher frequencies are very nice. This is a good site with lots of info The Class-A Amplifier Site
I have bought most of my transformers from parts-express.com but mouser and digikey are very good for quality. As for the chassis i bought a few from a seller on ebay called dmsengineering I like their chassis and the price is very good. If you have metal fabrication skills you can get metal and make a chassis fairly easy but its not as cost effective.
If you decide to go class a you should look at Jlh amp simple circuitry and well documented
I have build one and its higher frequencies are very nice. This is a good site with lots of info The Class-A Amplifier Site
Thank you for the response! I have purchased the LM3875 kit, a 300VA transformer from sumr.com, and a chassis as mentioned in previous posts.
My next question pertains to DAC. I want to use my iphone as my digital media player and have it plug into a USB input on the amplifier. The USB input would run into the DAC, and the DAC output would feed the amplifier. I am still familiarizing myself with the different DAC options and trying to pick one. This is where I need help
I would like something that sounds fairly good and that comes as a kit. So far, I have come up with:
GrubDAC $35
ODAC (OBJECTIVEDAC) $99
HIFIMEDIY SABRE USB DAC ES9023 96KHZ/24BIT ($42)
A couple additional questions: Will each of these need power? Are modifications needed? The ODAC and SABRE seem to process higher quality at 96/24 vs the grub.
Thanks in advance!
I just started building the audiosector lm3875 amp and I am at the point of soldering the lm3875 chip in place. The directions state to solder pin 1 and 4 on the top. I cant see which pins are soldered on the top. Do I also solder all of the pins on the bottom? Thank you
Peter
Hi,
Manual said :
"Pin 1 and 4 on the chip are power pins and they connect to the planes in top layer. Please make sure that corresponding connection pads have enough solder in top layer as well."
So you must solder pin 1 and pin 4 at top of pcb, others pins at bottom..
Phil.
Thank you for the response! I have finally received my other parts from China and I am trying to finish up the project. I do have more questions though
I am trying to figure out the wiring here now. I have followed the guide to solder the secondary to the rectifier, just unsure about the primary and the switch. It looks like black and brown are the start of the windings and white and orange are the end. Would someone be able to help in specifics on how to wire the switch into this? I am wiring it parallel for 115 volts. Thank you!
Peter
Peter
Attachments
Hi,
See page 23 and after :
http://www.audiosector.com/nigc_kit-users_guide.pdf
Switch was at phase L (white and orange).
Phil.
See page 23 and after :
http://www.audiosector.com/nigc_kit-users_guide.pdf
Switch was at phase L (white and orange).
Phil.
Attachments
Thank you. So if I understand correctly, the white and orange wires will run from the transformer to the switch. Then, a wire from the switch to the "L" on the power plug? Does it matter which tab I connect the white and orange too?
Hi,
Read this :
Building a Gainclone chip amp power supply.
Black and brown must be Neutral, white and orange the Live, what is your toroid ?
For secure way, what is your voltage, 115 or 230 v ?
Phil.
Yes..
Read this :
Building a Gainclone chip amp power supply.
Black and brown must be Neutral, white and orange the Live, what is your toroid ?
For secure way, what is your voltage, 115 or 230 v ?
Phil.
USB Stereo Audio Music Bluetooth Receiver for PC Speaker iPhone iPad Original | eBay
Ebay number 311307754625
That is my favorite dac.
Bonues: It can be run from its own private clean power supply (an extra phone charger will do). And your phone/tablet does like a remote control.
I've got several more expensive dacs, analog sources, and sound cards too; but, the little cheap CD quality bluetooth dac gets more use than anything else.
Ebay number 311307754625
That is my favorite dac.
Bonues: It can be run from its own private clean power supply (an extra phone charger will do). And your phone/tablet does like a remote control.
I've got several more expensive dacs, analog sources, and sound cards too; but, the little cheap CD quality bluetooth dac gets more use than anything else.
Hmmm... this is very tempting only because I respect your opinion, Daniel. Does it really sound good? Is the range decent?
The range is approximately normal for a remote control. It is typically 10ft (3m) to 20ft (6m), depending on the phone or tablet. The range for a laptop may be less.
The power supply used may alter the mid-range and treble tone slightly (just like you'd expect for anything audio), so you might want to try a couple different phone chargers. Generally, I thought it was laid back, open and clear.
Or you could go wild and try a 5v reg chip for a more "fresh" CD player tonality (I didn't find that necessary but am reporting that the option exists).
In my comparison, the X-Fi and M-audio, audiophile sound cards were partially defeated when running on that dirty power inside any computer; however, the little bluetooth dac can run on clean power instead. That bit is educational too!
Therefore, I wish I had purchased the little bluetooth dac BEFORE buying expensive sources (as a point of comparison, so I'd know what spendy sources to keep or return--specifically Return anything that can't beat the bluetooth dac's performance). So, as a point of comparison, I think the little bluetooth dac is highly valuable.
Unlike most modern sources, the little bluetooth dac can hit the bottom octaves clearly. The amplitude is neither too little nor too much--not disproportional at all; however, that "bass slam" dynamic is present. In this respect, it beats my wolfson dac thoroughly, but is otherwise very similar.
Initial setup--When using it for the first time, you may need to unplug/replug the bluetooth dac from power, several tries (to make it broadcast) while initially pairing it with your phone; however, after the first time, regular usage is typically easier.
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