ah that cleared the air quickly
Peter Daniel
Interesting the recommendation was to have cap 2's immediately adjacent to the clock removed on OKAPI's PDF page 2 of this thread-
does that imply any importance to these caps and the functioning of the clock??? would changing them to better quality ones theoretically have any benefit in improving the sound??
Peter Daniel
Interesting the recommendation was to have cap 2's immediately adjacent to the clock removed on OKAPI's PDF page 2 of this thread-
does that imply any importance to these caps and the functioning of the clock??? would changing them to better quality ones theoretically have any benefit in improving the sound??
well not totally sure but appear to be part of the 5v power supply line which does make them important???
Hadn't realized that the clock caps were built into the one component!! ooops got that one wrong.
Perhaps I should now look to changing more of those surface mount caps in the path of the power supply lines??
Hadn't realized that the clock caps were built into the one component!! ooops got that one wrong.
Perhaps I should now look to changing more of those surface mount caps in the path of the power supply lines??
woodturner-fran said:
I think the thread is a good idea but increasing the size of the puck..I would say no.
The Delrin puck is a proper size and "in balance" with the frail spindle and tiny platform.
Further is it from the utmost importance that it screws on very light almost all the way down at a whirl of your finger.
I have played hundreds of hours this way and turns out to be very comfortable and failproof..
If you have ebony lying around ....treat yourself..to an ebony puck.
If not and you want to give it a try PM me and I will send a couple of pieces.
Erik
Hi!
I'm new to this thread and it's quite exciting. I have started to read a few pages yesterday, there are so much to catch on. It will take a while before I am able to read all of it and catch where you guys are at.
I have a question: Since the thread dates from march 2008, If I decide to purchase one of these boombox, do you think the unit will still have the proper chipset and components needed from the earlier production that you guys have? "The Source" seems to show them on the internet at 60$CDN. As of today, is there any items hard to get to build the clone?
Thanks!
I'm new to this thread and it's quite exciting. I have started to read a few pages yesterday, there are so much to catch on. It will take a while before I am able to read all of it and catch where you guys are at.
I have a question: Since the thread dates from march 2008, If I decide to purchase one of these boombox, do you think the unit will still have the proper chipset and components needed from the earlier production that you guys have? "The Source" seems to show them on the internet at 60$CDN. As of today, is there any items hard to get to build the clone?
Thanks!
OK agreed changed the clock to one out of the stable platter pioneers used my own polystyrene 100pf caps, and yes a big advance. as already described, significantly more refined sound.Smoother over the entire frequency range especially the top end. With this comes much better separation of instruments played and their surrounding space. Frankies voice is now quite clearly recorded in a separate acoustic environment away from the band. Everything sounds so much more relaxed and easier to follow. Biggest improvement yet.
Audiojoy:
Yep, I was pretty happy with the crystal change too. Keep on plugging away at it. I too think there is more to be wrung out of this yet.
Peter/Erik/anyone who knows!:
Would any of you have a link to a post that shows where to link in the power supplies on the board and also is there a specific sequence that things need to be powered up in?
Fran
Yep, I was pretty happy with the crystal change too. Keep on plugging away at it. I too think there is more to be wrung out of this yet.
Peter/Erik/anyone who knows!:
Would any of you have a link to a post that shows where to link in the power supplies on the board and also is there a specific sequence that things need to be powered up in?
Fran
Fran,
Thanks for the input!
I found a place where they have one in stock. Not to far from here, I'll try to put my hand on it. I have a question, is there some kind of document that someone manage to do, to have all the information at same place, one that explain the procedures for the complete mod?
Thanks,
Thanks for the input!
I found a place where they have one in stock. Not to far from here, I'll try to put my hand on it. I have a question, is there some kind of document that someone manage to do, to have all the information at same place, one that explain the procedures for the complete mod?
Thanks,
Other than the okapi pdf and the summary by a Canadian guy with a toy rocket in his avatar (sorry, I forget the name), no.
Doesn't really matter though, everyone seems to end up with a different Shigaclone depending on personal preferences. Use the okapi pdf as a guideline (to be found somewhere at the beginning of this thread), but let your ears do the judging... Good luck.
Doesn't really matter though, everyone seems to end up with a different Shigaclone depending on personal preferences. Use the okapi pdf as a guideline (to be found somewhere at the beginning of this thread), but let your ears do the judging... Good luck.
This week I tried to change the original C906 0.1uF electrolytic cap with a Panasonic ECQP 0.1uF polypropylene film cap.
First impression was not good for me. Brighter sound. I already suffer from sibilant highs and that's not the direction I need. I waited for all the week for a possible burn-in process to take place, but nothing changed. I don't like it. I came back to the original cap yesterday evening.
First impression was not good for me. Brighter sound. I already suffer from sibilant highs and that's not the direction I need. I waited for all the week for a possible burn-in process to take place, but nothing changed. I don't like it. I came back to the original cap yesterday evening.
M.MASSIMO:
There have been lots of caps tried for C906. Personally I have tried about 6 different film/polyester types and in the end I prefer the original cheapo electrolytic. I also had a blue ero one that Peter likes (1837 or someting like that?) and it was a close second, but I thought the sound lacked a little bit of body, especialy with vocals.
jitter:
No, just the okapi mod file - if you can't find it send me an email and I'll email it to you. After that the chassis plays a fairly large part in all this - I would say at least 1/3-1/2 of the overall sound. So think big, massy chassis with some kind of isolation, allow to try spikes, springs, and so on as you evaluate.
Peter:
thanks for the link. I'm almost afraid to go at the power supplies I am very happy with the sound as is!
Fran
There have been lots of caps tried for C906. Personally I have tried about 6 different film/polyester types and in the end I prefer the original cheapo electrolytic. I also had a blue ero one that Peter likes (1837 or someting like that?) and it was a close second, but I thought the sound lacked a little bit of body, especialy with vocals.
jitter:
No, just the okapi mod file - if you can't find it send me an email and I'll email it to you. After that the chassis plays a fairly large part in all this - I would say at least 1/3-1/2 of the overall sound. So think big, massy chassis with some kind of isolation, allow to try spikes, springs, and so on as you evaluate.
Peter:
thanks for the link. I'm almost afraid to go at the power supplies I am very happy with the sound as is!
Fran