Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

I used a 32 mm hole-saw HSS on my drilling machine and drilled through a beam of ebony... then it took loads of hours to get it perfectly round by mounting it with a headphone jack in my drill...:...after two rejects I finally got the hang of it....
 

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Erik van Voorst said:
Peter I was wondering...

Throughout your posts (Philips and Shiga) you showed great respect to the design and vision of Junji ...

Yet you go for soft suspension so leaving his vision...
I can understand you did it for the Philips-Job...but howcome you preferred the soft suspension in combination with the Sanyo/JVC....did your listening to both suspensions decide that.....
or was it sheer the Mark Levinson approach...

I would appreciate if you shared your experience on that matter.... ;)

Well, Flatfish is not completely hard suspension either: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1469171#post1469171

The effect of suspension will depend on frame weight, material, supporting platform and the exact type of springs being used. Only in such context one can compare one type of suspention to the other.

I spent great lenghts of time experimenting with various types of transport mounting and the end result is still compromized, taking into account practicality and visual appearance.

The choice of spring suspension was solely based on my subjective listening tests and not design decisions of Madrigal or 47Labs ;)
 
Erik van Voorst said:
....and in the background the famous blue-led post .....

Peter did you experiment with it on your Shiga project....I know you were satisfied with the use of it on your Philips Pro project....

You mean the controversial Y B Blue thread? ;)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6368&highlight=

Well, this transport sounded so good right from the beginning that I was not really motivated enough to check the effect of additional laser light.
 
Excuse me...couple of practical questions...

1.....how can I edit...I made typos a mail ago..and reads difficult with them..:mad:

While I am at it...

2. what means IIRC

3. and PRaT...

Thanks in advance:)

PS

The Blue Led Thread is too sad to read...hobby-guys trying to kill each other.

I guess buying a blue led and 2 AAs answers it all for each individual.....:cop:
 
Erik van Voorst said:
I guess buying a blue led and 2 AAs answers it all for each individual.....:cop:

The effect was rather subtle and most appealing initially, after a while I didn't really care much. Modyfing CD-Pro would certainly bring higher gains, but somehow I never got into that.

As to your other questions, you will find answers here:

http://www.acronymfinder.com/IIRC.html
http://www.acronymfinder.com/PRAT.html

Do you mean editing posts? You got 30 min after posting to do any changes by pressing 'edit' button under your post.

BTW, I just checked you website and IIRC, your speaker project created quite a buzz on some forums ;)
 
Wow thats in a league of its own, Kudos there my friend very very impressive work indeed.

I know money doesnt come into concideration when you ar doing something you love but they must stand you a complete fortune and not just in monetry terms, man hours alone must run into the thousands, i wouldnt be surprised at tens of thousands.
a work of art none the less congrats:cool:
 
kevinkr said:



No relay, but there is a limit switch right by the capacitors and adjacent to the motor. The bottom of the sled has a "feature" which hits the switch at end of travel. I have a hard time believing that it will not spin up unless that switch is open. (Mine immediately parks in such an instance.) How about the door switch? Loose connection? Something else going on?


I don't know. My experimentations are that the wires are good, the connections are good too, and the set works fine when put as original.

I did not check the voltage though. I will try that in the next few days. Thanks for the support!
 
jonners said:



Pendergast, from looking at your photos (nice work!) it seems to me that you are losing much of the advantage of the inertia of all that mass by continuing to use the green compliant couplings. If you mounted the transport rigidly, wouldn't the vibrations of the rotating disc and mechanism be reduced through being directly coupled to a lot of weight? You could then put some sort of compliant suspension under the whole heavy box. I may be wrong - but I think it could be well worth trying.


I will certainly experiment from your suggestions! Thank you!
 
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Pendergast said:



I don't know. My experimentations are that the wires are good, the connections are good too, and the set works fine when put as original.

I did not check the voltage though. I will try that in the next few days. Thanks for the support!


Strikes me that there might be an EMI issue here, try grounding the mechanism chassis when you do this.. (Negative side of supply)

Other thought is ribbon is open in extended position due to handling. Works in one position and not other. This same issue got me into a lot of trouble with the mpu board I ultimately blew up.. (Sordid saga several hundred messages back in this very thread... :D )
 
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Peter Daniel said:


Well, Flatfish is not completely hard suspension either: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1469171#post1469171

The effect of suspension will depend on frame weight, material, supporting platform and the exact type of springs being used. Only in such context one can compare one type of suspention to the other.

I spent great lenghts of time experimenting with various types of transport mounting and the end result is still compromized, taking into account practicality and visual appearance.

The choice of spring suspension was solely based on my subjective listening tests and not design decisions of Madrigal or 47Labs ;)

Based mostly from information collected in this thread here is my take on suspension. Peter's 'suggested' frame built of copper and bronze. 5/16" socket head capscrews mounted underneath the frame and pointing down. These ride inside a small piece of rubber hose which rides inside the springs mentioned earlier in this thread. These are temporarily seated in a 1" MDF base in which I drilled 1" seats for the springs. In the second picture you can see a set of Nordost Pulsar Points that I had laying around that I decide to use. When I get around to it I intend to build a Wadia look-a-like case for this transport out of MDF. I'm thinking of painting it black and intergrating 1" doweling into each corner for the authentic look and a place to mount the Pulsar Points.

Regards,
Dan
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
kanifee said:
Wow thats in a league of its own, Kudos there my friend very very impressive work indeed.

I know money doesnt come into concideration when you ar doing something you love but they must stand you a complete fortune and not just in monetry terms, man hours alone must run into the thousands, i wouldnt be surprised at tens of thousands.
a work of art none the less congrats:cool:

Thanks
The xXx speakers were approx. 20.000 euros on material and 2500 hours to build.....mind you the original Avalon states somewhere to 140.000 euro in the Netherlands.
And I changed a lot more to my liking..

Clearaudio I have paid you today ...looking forward!!

:worship: