Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

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dimkasta

dimkasta

Member
Joined 2010
Guys have you made any comparisons between 2 and 4 diodes?
I really do not like the idea of wasting half the wave from the transformer...
Tibi how did you choose those Cree diodes for your high grade version? I cannot find them on mouser, but there are other skotcky carbide from Cree available
 
iTiberius

iTiberius

Member
Joined 2005
dimkasta said:
Guys have you made any comparisons between 2 and 4 diodes?
I really do not like the idea of wasting half the wave from the transformer...
Tibi how did you choose those Cree diodes for your high grade version? I cannot find them on mouser, but there are other skotcky carbide from Cree available
Click to expand...


With Shiga power supply you get full-wave rectification. You do not waste any wave. ;)
You have a center tap and each wave is rectified by one diode.
You can get CREE diodes from Cree Semiconductor Rectifying Diodes
I use them in all my modifications with excellent results.

Regards,
Tibi
 
dimkasta

dimkasta

Member
Joined 2010
Quick thought.

Anyone tried a single shunt 75R (or 50R as per Jarek's suggestion) resistor at the output, and moving the attenuator to the DAC side of the cable? It should improve SNR at the DAC's input because noise picked up by the cable will be attenuated too, and the higher peak to peak voltage should allow better transfer of high frequency low level harmonics in a lengthy cable.
 
T

tubo

Member
Joined 2007
hi Dimkasta,

I've not tried this but it seems a good idea. in leu to this, i would like to share to everyone that i have used ldr's on the output. i used 50 ohm to 75ohm pipad as recommended by studiozey. i have compared it to caddock on shunt and shinkoh on series. i must say that the ldr are very natural and very clean. dynamics are to die for. im not going back to passive resistors. the transport i used on this test is the jvc.

i will be comparing the ldr's against vishay on series and caddocks on shunt on the mk2 shiga very soon.
 
P

polaron

Member
Joined 2013
No stress!

tvicol said:
Few pictures with Shiga prototype chassis.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Regards,
Tibi
Click to expand...

That's funny!
I had a Shigaraki transport in the past, (as well as the Flatfish, but Flatfs muuuuch better!), but the point is that Shigaraki plays considerably well without stress.
I mean for that : having the block chassis not screwed, without suspension.
When I removed the aluminium chassis the sound improved and when I remove the screws, it still improved. Here, no big mass, absortion, just to let the mechanical parts as free as possible.
I'm not an engineer, but I have ears, and these "tweeks" could be heard by everybody when I used to make the demonstration.
 
P

polaron

Member
Joined 2013
tubo said:
hi Dimkasta,

I've not tried this but it seems a good idea. in leu to this, i would like to share to everyone that i have used ldr's on the output. i used 50 ohm to 75ohm pipad as recommended by studiozey. i have compared it to caddock on shunt and shinkoh on series. i must say that the ldr are very natural and very clean. dynamics are to die for. im not going back to passive resistors. the transport i used on this test is the jvc.

i will be comparing the ldr's against vishay on series and caddocks on shunt on the mk2 shiga very soon.
Click to expand...


Hi tubo
Please allow me to enter in the conversation just like that.
You're absolutly right!
I also LDR in my gainclone - by the way, Uriah made it for me and it is really good. Now, everytime I have the chance to replace passive resistors by LDRs, I do it. I'm LDRing all over:p
 
P

polaron

Member
Joined 2013
polaron said:
That's funny!
I had a Shigaraki transport in the past, (as well as the Flatfish, but Flatfs muuuuch better!), but the point is that Shigaraki plays considerably well without stress.
I mean for that : having the block chassis not screwed, without suspension.
When I removed the aluminium chassis the sound improved and when I remove the screws, it still improved. Here, no big mass, absortion, just to let the mechanical parts as free as possible.
I'm not an engineer, but I have ears, and these "tweeks" could be heard by everybody when I used to make the demonstration.
Click to expand...

Note : I am not applying the same to this chassis in the photo. The only reason I'am not buying is that I can't do it in this moment. To many projects. This is a very good one, very simple, very effective and good looking, just the way I like, sincerely. I just wanted to make a point. Shigaraki transport is very nice and good looking, but this one in the photo has not the mistakes done in the original Shigaraki. Sorry Shigaraki, you know that I like you.
 
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S

Salar

Member
Joined 2006
fishermansframe.gumroad.com/l/abtyf
Hello Polaron,
thanks a lot for the reply.
So really no copper bearings for the laser like in the good old days?
Could someone else confirm? I am asking because actual Sanyo laser assemblies like
SF-HD870 or the older HD65 have no bearings. So longetivity iscruciasl to me. I assume,
the plastic bearings are not made from durable POM like the white gears?
All the best,
Salar
 
P

polaron

Member
Joined 2013
Salar said:
Hello Polaron,
thanks a lot for the reply.
So really no copper bearings for the laser like in the good old days?
Could someone else confirm? I am asking because actual Sanyo laser assemblies like
SF-HD870 or the older HD65 have no bearings. So longetivity iscruciasl to me. I assume,
the plastic bearings are not made from durable POM like the white gears?
All the best,
Salar
Click to expand...

See this
shigaraki

Anyway, even if it doesn't resist time, you buy another and change it.
It costs peanuts.
But so far I am not awre of problems...
 
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