Ok, I've substituted the belden 1694a digital cable with one of my stealth audio IC and I can't believe what i heard. Right now, my system is alive performing in front of me. I did changed back and forth between the belden and stealth and the difference is staggering. I prefer the Stealth Audio IC. Good thing i have an rca adapter on hand or this wouldn't be possible. I know what I'm hearing is not a fluke. This was confirmed by my dad and my brother, they noticed that there was a big change in the sound without them knowing that I changed the cables.
I'll give it a listen more and will evaluate again. Thanks guys for suggesting this approach.
I'll give it a listen more and will evaluate again. Thanks guys for suggesting this approach.
Maybe a way of speaking...in full daylight..all colours are present..so all the noise ....by feeding it one dominant frequency the laser performs better...but I am no lab guy.
The thing I do know is that from that hatefull topic on the DIY I am one of the few (and you) who tried it out.
I do not understand well.
You use a stealth audio IC cable with an RCA plug on both sides.
And now uses a BNC to RCA adapter view photo ...
To connect your stealth audio IC cable, because you have BNC chassis connection on the DAC and BNC chassis on the Shiga.
Rudy
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I decided to make a Marigo-Stand on my PiTbull.
Since I find it a bit awkward the last couple of years to change cd's with in one hand the puck...the other the Marigo and missing a third hand to swap cd's , it became evident that I needed a stand on the PiTbull because as you know it is a free standing object so nowhere to put it (immediate surrounding).
Maybe for some it is over-engineering but you do not want to drop such an expensive cd.
Since I find it a bit awkward the last couple of years to change cd's with in one hand the puck...the other the Marigo and missing a third hand to swap cd's , it became evident that I needed a stand on the PiTbull because as you know it is a free standing object so nowhere to put it (immediate surrounding).
Maybe for some it is over-engineering but you do not want to drop such an expensive cd.
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I've seen this a few times as well - I think that the issue is with the mounting of the mechanism. At least i think I solved it once by loosening the mounting screws at the 2 corners of the mech and it read OK then.
However, could anyone else chime in here?
Fran
Thehof,
I can offer you both... I do have a spare JVC RC-EZ51 (second best to use as a donor andf the same that I am using in my built) and am also offering an unused Shigaclone kit from the first Group Buy. Saves you some money and offers a spare Sanyo mechnism! --> see Swap Meet section.
Yes ,this is logical since over tightening the soft mechanism plate can change horizontal movement plain of the lens to a sensitive but significant degree of being enable to read the outer pits accurately.I didn'd had such problems because never tried the screwed version and just thinking about the Badge's problem....
BTW I did some more testing with aluminum pucks.
One with 85gr mass and one with 19grams.
On all cases the 85gr sounded better. Fuller sound and more contrasty.
BTW the 19gr one was spinning on top of the CD during start/stop. It has a very thin spot that touches the CD and is a bit heighty, so perhaps I need to try something with more surface touching the CD and lower gravity point.
I also tried the blue led thingy. The difference is borderline psychological if it even is there. I need to automate switching it on and off again to try it while listening relaxed. BTW I have a NOS dac if this means anything. Peter mentioned that people with NOS dacs do not perceive a difference with a led.
One with 85gr mass and one with 19grams.
On all cases the 85gr sounded better. Fuller sound and more contrasty.
BTW the 19gr one was spinning on top of the CD during start/stop. It has a very thin spot that touches the CD and is a bit heighty, so perhaps I need to try something with more surface touching the CD and lower gravity point.
I also tried the blue led thingy. The difference is borderline psychological if it even is there. I need to automate switching it on and off again to try it while listening relaxed. BTW I have a NOS dac if this means anything. Peter mentioned that people with NOS dacs do not perceive a difference with a led.
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I tested the same way two super regs the Teddy and ALWSR on the 5v chip
The same results as with the 8v test...again the Teddy was superior.
My final test was a Music Rail in the Dexa clock supply..I was really surprised that I got more warmth and detail...
I made it in such a way that I could listen with and without by simply changing cable.
The same results as with the 8v test...again the Teddy was superior.
My final test was a Music Rail in the Dexa clock supply..I was really surprised that I got more warmth and detail...
I made it in such a way that I could listen with and without by simply changing cable.
It is a bit difficult to explain. The sound is more natural and easy. It is much less harsh than the factory FT1, but without any detail loss. I got the same feeling with some small electrolytics but the detail clarity suffered significantly.
I liked it so much that I am also modding my FT3 output caps on my DCB1.