For both Vishays and Caddock, I suggest Michael Percy (percyaudio.com) - he has the full range of Vishay values available, and stocks all flavours of Caddocks as well. Ordering is a bit awkward (you have to send him an email listing the parts you want, and wait for reply which can be a few days), but his prices are very good on most items and he accepts PayPal.
If you only want two resistors, this might be a bit expensive though because of postage etc... Check with Michael first - if it's too expensive, let me know and I will send you mine (if you don't mind second-hand). I have recently moved entirely to hand-made resistors, which are in every way superior - and have no intention of going back to commercial stuff, so I don't need them any more.
If you only want two resistors, this might be a bit expensive though because of postage etc... Check with Michael first - if it's too expensive, let me know and I will send you mine (if you don't mind second-hand). I have recently moved entirely to hand-made resistors, which are in every way superior - and have no intention of going back to commercial stuff, so I don't need them any more.
Problem is I only need 1set. I actually don't mind secondhand. But thank you for link this shop is amazing..I think I wrote to you in the shorter version of the shigaclone. If you tried the Duelund Alexander cap in c906. I have one o,1uf but haven't used it yet. I have read all your test but ended with silmic ii in c916 did not try Elna stargete because I could not locate a reseller, but silmic was in my setup prefered over oscon..I guess I found it to light/hard in sound but with good resolution.
I think this changing caps is quite a part of the shigaclone fun
It is fun indeed - or at least it used to be, until I heard a setup based entirely on wood-modded Black Gates Since then, I kind of gave up searching, because I don't believe I will find anything better - not within the next ten years anyway... I still do a bit of cap listening every now and then, "pro publico bono" so I can help those who cannot afford Black Gates (Black Gates can still be bought, only their prices are extra-orbital).
Regarding your cap comments - I also initially liked Silmic. It has a pleasant, smooth signature. But on more critical listening, especially rich, well-recorded classical music, I found that its weakness is not just resolution. It's actually poor response to micro-transients in general. This affects the reproduction of attack phase (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timbre#Envelope) and ultimately leads to a sound that is smooth, but never really true to life...
Os-Con in C916 does not "flatter" the sound, but I do think its tonality is largely correct. It is much more likeable when used with Starget in the PSU - Starget warms up the overall presentation, making it more "natural" and less "neutral".
If you find Os-Con thin and hard sounding, then I do think you would like the combination of Starget + Os-Con in the PSU, in conjunction with another Starget in C916. You can buy Stargets on eBay, or from me - send me a PM if you are interested.
Regarding Duelund caps - I was actually entertaining the thought of buying one 0.01uF Alexander cap for comparison in C906... Expensive, but it will be interesting to see how it stacks up against my hand-made VNM Cap. Another cap I was considering was Jupiter HT Beeswax. Similar price to the Alexander, but I don't really want to buy both... anyone wants to lend me one for testing?
Since then, I kind of gave up searching, because I don't believe I will find anything better - not within the next ten years anyway... I still do a bit of cap listening every now and then, "pro publico bono" so I can help those who cannot afford Black Gates (Black Gates can still be bought, only their prices are extra-orbital).Regarding your cap comments - I also initially liked Silmic. It has a pleasant, smooth signature. But on more critical listening, especially rich, well-recorded classical music, I found that its weakness is not just resolution. It's actually poor response to micro-transients in general. This affects the reproduction of attack phase (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timbre#Envelope) and ultimately leads to a sound that is smooth, but never really true to life...
Os-Con in C916 does not "flatter" the sound, but I do think its tonality is largely correct. It is much more likeable when used with Starget in the PSU - Starget warms up the overall presentation, making it more "natural" and less "neutral".
If you find Os-Con thin and hard sounding, then I do think you would like the combination of Starget + Os-Con in the PSU, in conjunction with another Starget in C916. You can buy Stargets on eBay, or from me - send me a PM if you are interested.
Regarding Duelund caps - I was actually entertaining the thought of buying one 0.01uF Alexander cap for comparison in C906... Expensive, but it will be interesting to see how it stacks up against my hand-made VNM Cap. Another cap I was considering was Jupiter HT Beeswax. Similar price to the Alexander, but I don't really want to buy both... anyone wants to lend me one for testing?
Hi changed some things. I did some of the okapi stuff and as Peter changed c908 into a Wima and c939 and c929 into oscons, and changed the c916 to nichicon fg 49/10. Psu still nichicon FG 2200 and cerafine 1000uf (this will be changed to oscon). C906 still csr tftf 0.047uf. Shinkohs still in place. I must say this config improved it. I can't compare with black gates and kinda gave up finding them. I think next improvement will be some changes on my dac. Would still love to have the 300r naked vishay. Found the caddock in dk.It is fun indeed - or at least it used to be, until I heard a setup based entirely on wood-modded Black Gates
Regarding your cap comments - I also initially liked Silmic. It has a pleasant, smooth signature. But on more critical listening, especially rich, well-recorded classical music, I found that its weakness is not just resolution. It's actually poor response to micro-transients in general. This affects the reproduction of attack phase (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timbre#Envelope) and ultimately leads to a sound that is smooth, but never really true to life...
Os-Con in C916 does not "flatter" the sound, but I do think its tonality is largely correct. It is much more likeable when used with Starget in the PSU - Starget warms up the overall presentation, making it more "natural" and less "neutral".
If you find Os-Con thin and hard sounding, then I do think you would like the combination of Starget + Os-Con in the PSU, in conjunction with another Starget in C916. You can buy Stargets on eBay, or from me - send me a PM if you are interested.
Regarding Duelund caps - I was actually entertaining the thought of buying one 0.01uF Alexander cap for comparison in C906... Expensive, but it will be interesting to see how it stacks up against my hand-made VNM Cap. Another cap I was considering was Jupiter HT Beeswax. Similar price to the Alexander, but I don't really want to buy both... anyone wants to lend me one for testing?
Hi,
I am thinking of giving this a try but am unsure of the "latch-up" arrangement. I will use the std 7808 supply and a separate +5V for the pins indicated. Do I need to power up the +5V section (with a separate switch) after the +8V?
Any help will be appreciated.
Attached pic shows how to connect separate 5 V supply; no "latch-up" arrangements are needed.
Attachments
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Dear Peter. I tried some similar mods. And you helped me how to install caps at c906. I just tried a Duelund Alexander cap at 0,1uf instead of the Teflon cap I had installed, it was 0,.047uf. Can I please ask why you ended with Teflon. My problem is that I prefer the bass and more analogue character it has at 0,1uf but I'm not sure if it was because I changed typeof cap or because of value. I guess it is value that changes things. But please a word on Teflon? (think the polish version mentioned something about Polypropylene or was it Teflon) ps.the wima cap was small to solder on
Thanks. Read about v-caps and they are truly expensive
. Maybe it will go in later for fun. I guess changing back to 0.1uf changed bass in my setup, just a bit interested in trying a Teflon tin cap with this value. But the Duelund Alexander sounds pretty ok very pleasant to my ear. anyway can you send me your email?
I personally found small values around 9-10nF (ie. 0.01uF) to work best. Going above 12nF rapidly deteriorates detail, but once above 20nF, the sound doesn't change much. I haven't tried values above 100nF (0.1uF) yet. Less than 6nF again loses resolution, and going significantly below also causes read issues. Without C906, the transport is unable to read anything.
You can click on my nickname and select "Send email to uncle_leon" from the drop-down menu
You can click on my nickname and select "Send email to uncle_leon" from the drop-down menu
I personally found small values around 9-10nF (ie. 0.01uF) to work best. Going above 12nF rapidly deteriorates detail, but once above 20nF, the sound doesn't change much. I haven't tried values above 100nF (0.1uF) yet. Less than 6nF again loses resolution, and going significantly below also causes read issues. Without C906, the transport is unable to read anything.
You can click on my nickname and select "Send email to uncle_leon" from the drop-down menu
Hi just had a thought,
most electrolytics have large tolerances ie 20% would a more accurate cap be good at 906 given the job it's doing.
I suppose I mean, could this be the most important thing rather than make/value
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Tolerance only tells you the range of values you can expect when buying a given part, so by itself it cannot have any effect on the sound...
If precision was critical, I don't think Sanyo would use a cheap electrolytic cap. And also, the low values I'm using in my Shiga wouldn't work
The sweet spot I discovered is more or less 20% wide (10nF +-2nF), while most audio-grade film caps have 10% or 5% tolerance, so again absolute precision is not required here... (having said that, I was building each cap to the exact capacitance I wanted - so in my tests tolerances were effectively 0%...
)Hi Peter,
One more question before I proceed to feed separate +5V as indicate...I have a jumper wire from +ve pin of C916 to where the +ve of 5V is to be connected to. Do I need to remove this jumper wire now?
Do we know what C906 actually does/is there for? I mean, there's every possibility that the value IS important. For example (and this is PURELY guess-work on my part, but since it seems to make a large difference to the sound...) what if this part (or the exact value) has something to do with the laser strength or focusing? This would obviously affect the perceived sound quality if changed (and disc reading ability too perhaps).
As I said, just guess-work. I too have played with many different caps for this position (Jensen 0.1uF copper foil, aluminium foil, Auricap, Black Gate etc etc). Whilst each one changed the sound, after a while I had to reluctantly concede that none sounded as 'right' as the original part, for all it's cheapness.
This value WAS chosen for a reason by the bods at Sanyo (as they could easily have fitted a 0.01uF or 0.2uF etc etc).
I'm all for modding (honest - not posting this to ruffle any feathers) but perhaps it's best to find out sometimes what a part does/it's importance before just 'shooting in the dark' as it were?
I changed out all the caps on the main PCB with Black Gate 'N' types at one point, then tried some os-cons. Again I strongly felt I preferred the board as it was stock, with the exception of the caps Peter mentions should be changed/removed. Again, most of us are shooting in the dark, without knowing what each replaced part actually does for the most part...
In fact my best Shigaclone sound-wise was when I had the freshly removed mechanism sitting on a rubber mouse mat, NO mods at all (no caps or chokes removed at that point), and the digital out coax connected directly to the PCB without any resistors. It grooved & boogied like no other digital device I have heard before/since. Sounded like my old Naim CDI in fact, but with more detail! All the mods bought greater levels of refinement and 'hi-fi-ness', but at the expense of a little life & soul... Go figure, as they say
I think I may well buy one more mechanism, and leave this one totally stock, but mounted in a nice chassis.
- John
As I said, just guess-work. I too have played with many different caps for this position (Jensen 0.1uF copper foil, aluminium foil, Auricap, Black Gate etc etc). Whilst each one changed the sound, after a while I had to reluctantly concede that none sounded as 'right' as the original part, for all it's cheapness.
This value WAS chosen for a reason by the bods at Sanyo (as they could easily have fitted a 0.01uF or 0.2uF etc etc).
I'm all for modding (honest - not posting this to ruffle any feathers) but perhaps it's best to find out sometimes what a part does/it's importance before just 'shooting in the dark' as it were?
I changed out all the caps on the main PCB with Black Gate 'N' types at one point, then tried some os-cons. Again I strongly felt I preferred the board as it was stock, with the exception of the caps Peter mentions should be changed/removed. Again, most of us are shooting in the dark, without knowing what each replaced part actually does for the most part...
In fact my best Shigaclone sound-wise was when I had the freshly removed mechanism sitting on a rubber mouse mat, NO mods at all (no caps or chokes removed at that point), and the digital out coax connected directly to the PCB without any resistors. It grooved & boogied like no other digital device I have heard before/since. Sounded like my old Naim CDI in fact, but with more detail! All the mods bought greater levels of refinement and 'hi-fi-ness', but at the expense of a little life & soul... Go figure, as they say
I think I may well buy one more mechanism, and leave this one totally stock, but mounted in a nice chassis.
- John
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