I bought an older boombox, a Matsui CD33, at a charity sales since I sort of recogniced the transport from my SG project. Yes, it has a sanyo transport and the chips are quite the same but they are all on the main board :-(
The main difference to the JVC is that it has no clamp but the 3 balls.
The main difference to the JVC is that it has no clamp but the 3 balls.
Hi Woodturner-fran
You keep stick on a chip set. I believe it is basicly the power-
supply what matters. If you watch around on several audio forums,every good sounding diy project have a good power supply. And much more things influence the sound. And why going it wrong with the jvc?, the service manual is not correct.
So I think it is not nescessary to stay on a boombox, every lowcost cd player is a possibility.. And first, a correct sevice manual is mandatory., second, prefer a device which parts are easely available. And here we need the aid of people who working in the audio electronics, they can named a few candidates.
If I wrong with this statement,please correct me.
regards
zjaakco
You keep stick on a chip set. I believe it is basicly the power-
supply what matters. If you watch around on several audio forums,every good sounding diy project have a good power supply. And much more things influence the sound. And why going it wrong with the jvc?, the service manual is not correct.
So I think it is not nescessary to stay on a boombox, every lowcost cd player is a possibility.. And first, a correct sevice manual is mandatory., second, prefer a device which parts are easely available. And here we need the aid of people who working in the audio electronics, they can named a few candidates.
If I wrong with this statement,please correct me.
regards
zjaakco
No, you are 100% correct - I agree with all of that. Power supply is a huge contributor to good sounding audio - everywhere, but especially with digital stuff.
The question though, is what player etc etc!! We are all waiting and watching!
I've had my clone running for a while now on a quickly thrown together power supply. I know this is limiting the the best sound as it sits. I have looked for a source for the ALWSR and have found nothing but the pdf about it. Does anyone make boards or sell the completed regulator? Is there another regulator that would be comparable? I keep seeing things about the Bobken regulators and have found many posts about them but I cannot seem to find one that actually shows one. I don't have a problem building it myself I just need something to go on. Can anyone help me out.
Also, I see that there are three voltages on this board. Would it be best to use three separate regulators to get the best performance?
Also, I see that there are three voltages on this board. Would it be best to use three separate regulators to get the best performance?
lots of info on salas shunt and bobken regs on diyaudio, just do a search. Bobken may be hard to build since the bsp129 is out of stock everywhere.
Im using Peter Daniels 8v reg with uncle leons suggested Elna Starget/Oscon caps and a Salas 5v reg.
@apoopoo999 - What do you think about that capacitor combination? I obviously know it sounds good to my ears, but I'm curious how other people find it. Are you also using OsCon for C916?
You can buy BSP129 from this eBay seller. Here is a link to the auction. It's decently priced, too.
@c12mech - I have a similar problem... I would really appreciate if someone posted some sort of guide on how to make a Bobken reg (with pictures).
You can buy BSP129 from this eBay seller. Here is a link to the auction. It's decently priced, too.
@c12mech - I have a similar problem... I would really appreciate if someone posted some sort of guide on how to make a Bobken reg (with pictures).
I posted the info how to implement Bobken regulator in a transport here: Company Store
More info on those regulators can be found also here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/187748-pushing-limits-tda1543-nos-dac.html#post2549631
This is a relatively simple circuit that can be built on a proto-board.
More info on those regulators can be found also here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/187748-pushing-limits-tda1543-nos-dac.html#post2549631
This is a relatively simple circuit that can be built on a proto-board.
The "Company Store" was a misprint, the actual link should be this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-219.html#post2494104
I don't have any regulator handy at the moment to provide better pictures.
I don't have any regulator handy at the moment to provide better pictures.
Had some spare time today to install the new Sanyo 'puckless' hub and new laser which I purchased via Ebay last week.
Installation was a tad fiddly and - for the second time trying replacement transports on Shiga - I forgot to remove the solder blob from the laser so it didn't work first time. Doh! After slapping my forehead I took it apart again, desoldered that point, but it all together again and - whew! - it worked first time.
I'm extremely pleased with it and, after my experiences using Shiga with one of Fran's superb screw-on pucks too, this new mech. has convinced me that not using the magnetic clamp really does make a worthwhile difference. Hard to describve exactly, but I'd say the music 'grooves' better - it flows more naturally. Every instrument is located firmly in its own space with no 'fuzzy edges'. 'S's on vocals are extremely clear now - totally sibilant free. I thought they were before, but in comparison the music was very slightly blurred using the stock JVC puck. Music has a reassuring 'solidity' that it didn't quite possess before; every instrument exists clearly in its own acoustic space. Very firm bass.
I also noticed, when looking at spinning CDs side-on, that very slight wobbles on certain discs before seem to have vanished with this 3-bearing style hub. I can detect no wobble at all as discs spin which must bode well for more accurate reading of CDs. It looks like the disc is still in fact.
So for £7 I'd recommend anyone to try this replacement mechanism out. To my mind it is superior to the original magnetic puck system, and is far more conveniant to use than a screw-on clamp & offers the same performance gains.
Here's some pics to show the difference - hope it's of interest to someone
- John
Installation was a tad fiddly and - for the second time trying replacement transports on Shiga - I forgot to remove the solder blob from the laser so it didn't work first time. Doh! After slapping my forehead I took it apart again, desoldered that point, but it all together again and - whew! - it worked first time.
I'm extremely pleased with it and, after my experiences using Shiga with one of Fran's superb screw-on pucks too, this new mech. has convinced me that not using the magnetic clamp really does make a worthwhile difference. Hard to describve exactly, but I'd say the music 'grooves' better - it flows more naturally. Every instrument is located firmly in its own space with no 'fuzzy edges'. 'S's on vocals are extremely clear now - totally sibilant free. I thought they were before, but in comparison the music was very slightly blurred using the stock JVC puck. Music has a reassuring 'solidity' that it didn't quite possess before; every instrument exists clearly in its own acoustic space. Very firm bass.
I also noticed, when looking at spinning CDs side-on, that very slight wobbles on certain discs before seem to have vanished with this 3-bearing style hub. I can detect no wobble at all as discs spin which must bode well for more accurate reading of CDs. It looks like the disc is still in fact.
So for £7 I'd recommend anyone to try this replacement mechanism out. To my mind it is superior to the original magnetic puck system, and is far more conveniant to use than a screw-on clamp & offers the same performance gains.
Here's some pics to show the difference - hope it's of interest to someone
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- John
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Thank you for the ebony puck, and the performance gains that opened up to me by getting rid of the magnetic puck, and led me to try out this mechanism
Here's the link for the mech. incase you need it - they're genuine Sanyo ones too (wasn't sure about some of the other Ebay spares I've used in the past, but these have Sanyo embossed at the front of the laser sled):
SANYO LASER LENS SF-P101N DA11B3VF (16P) W/MECHANISM | eBay
- John
Here's the link for the mech. incase you need it - they're genuine Sanyo ones too (wasn't sure about some of the other Ebay spares I've used in the past, but these have Sanyo embossed at the front of the laser sled):
SANYO LASER LENS SF-P101N DA11B3VF (16P) W/MECHANISM | eBay
- John
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Let us know how you get on with it - I'm hoping you'll find the same improvements that I did
Looks like they're all gone now - that didn't take long
The power of the internet!
Its all your fault
I have 2 complete Sanyo units stashed with laser and board, display board and remote, I wanted to mechanically separate the laser and motors from the main board, as discussed in another part of this thread, and this seems the easiest way.
Got mine here
http://www.donberg.ie/descript/s/sfp_101n_16.htm
Bill
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