Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Neither of them are bad. Toroids are only bad when poorly made (which is true of any component, really), and I have seen some great results using a custom-built toroid to power my Gainclone :up: :)

As to R-cores, I have read some very positive opinions about them, so I decided to try them out. And because no shop had a transformer that would meet my criteria for audio use, I contacted a manufacturer in China and got them to make me a custom transformer with extensive shielding and centre-tapped secondaries.

Tube amp users typically hate toroids. I don't know what is the reason for this as I've never built a tube amp myself ;)
 
I have been using information from diyaudio for a long time now and decided to give something back - I'm going to do a "Big Shigaclone Power Supply Capacitor Shootout" ;) and try to establish what are the best capacitors to replace the dying breed of Black Gates.

So can you please make suggestions as to what are the likely candidates. The only condition is that they have to be freely available in large quantities from international internet shops or eBay.

Obviously, the voltage rating must be 16V or above (25V for the first smoothing cap), and the optimal capacity seems to lie between 1000 and 3300. I will be testing alternatives for C916 too, I think this needs at least 6V rating and capacity between 47-100uf.

So far I got:
- Panasonic FC 1500/50
- Elna Silmic II 1000/50
- Elna "blue" 1000/35
Already ordered, waiting to arrive:
- Elna Cerafine 1000/35
- Os-Con SA 1000/16
- Nichicon KZ "Muse" 1000/25
- Nichicon FW 1000/100
- Nichicon ES 1000/25
- Nichicon FG "Fine Gold" 1000/35 and 2200/25
- a bunch of Silmic II; Cerafine; Nichicons KZ, ES, DB, FG, Os-Con in values around 47uF

The reference will be Peter Daniel's "classic" combination: 2x MSR860 followed by Black Gate FK 2200/35, LM7808 and BG STD 1000/25, C916 changed to BG N 47/50. The rest of the components will be left stock to provide a well established reference point.
 
This afternoon a couple of hours hobby-time in order to relax resulted in rigging up 2 super regs for the 5 and 8 V Power Supply.

Immediately it became apparrant (Deja Vu All Over Again) that the piano was so nice soft and silky ("Let No Man Write My Epitaph"....E. Fitzgerald) and with so much more natural grandeur...

Complex Orchestra such as Wagner with eg. "Rienzi" ...piece of cake:eek:, roomfilling and shining copper and pounding percussion...the complete Wagner-size orchestra presented as an illusion in the listening room...such fun to build this Mini-PitBull contraption....the ease and quietness simply stays stunning.......for me a no-brainer.:D

SuperRegs.jpg
 
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Hi Erik

Any design somewhere for the super regs?

Thanx

Nick

They are ALWSR....If you download its manual you get more design details.
You can buy the parts as well if I am right....
There are a million super regs outthere so do not follow me blindly..

@Rudy I use them the way the manual suggest...and there is a pre regulation before the tracking pre regulation....and no caps afterwards.
Anyway I read you have help with yours so I would stick to that...
 
Today I made a detachable platform enabling me to change lasers in seconds (eat your heart out ...to all high end commercial transports:devily:) but much more important getting the electronic board "QUIET"....;)

The Mini-PiTbull is becoming better by the week.....driven by my enthusiasm of getting this contraption up to my spec....(I know a touch of arrogance but also sheer fun in (my) belief !!!!)

A feature I experienced in my PiTbull after following a tip from Slawney the German audio-friend ....and I want it to pass it on to my audio friend(s)
A tweak not to be taken lightely...:cool:
I had Anton (Scrutinizer) to teach me how to do it :D

If you are observative..there is a 6-pole connector in your boombox which after your own ps you have no further use for....

Order a platform with laser and a leaser-end-switch together with a longer Laser-lint ...attach the 6 wires to your electronic board and be amazed...:eek:

LooseCanon.jpg


JackInTheBox.jpg
 
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hi,

Today I made a detachable platform enabling me to change lasers in seconds (eat your heart out ...to all high end commercial transports:devily:) but much more important getting the electronic board "QUIET"....;)

The Mini-PiTbull is becoming better by the week.....driven by my enthusiasm of getting this contraption up to my spec....(I know a touch of arrogance but also sheer fun in (my) belief !!!!)

A feature I experienced in my PiTbull after following a tip from Slawney the German audio-friend ....and I want it to pass it on to my audio friend(s)
A tweak not to be taken lightely...:cool:
I had Anton (Scrutinizer) to teach me how to do it :D

If you are observative..there is a 6-pole connector in your boombox which after your own ps you have no further use for....

Order a platform with laser and a leaser-end-switch together with a longer Laser-lint ...attach the 6 wires to your electronic board and be amazed...:eek:

LooseCanon.jpg


JackInTheBox.jpg
WOULD you take a pic and show me where are those wires are connected?
Thanks!
 
So you have + and - for the 2 motors, is the remaining pair for the laser sled?

And you still need the ribbon cable, right?

Fran

To aswer both questions :D
There is a six wires connector on the small print, it's easy to decypher you have the plastic end-switch (open close) with 2 wires...and the two motors with +/- making together the 6 wires.

When you desolder the motors from the old board they are marked with a red dot (+)underneath so that is a quick guide how to mount your wires there .
You still have to use the laser lint, the lenght is up to you.

Make sure you make a rigid construction (shrinktubes) when soldering the 2 wires on the 2 pins of the fragile (old) end switch.
I would not advise to remove the old switch since the connection is underneath the infamous heatsink...;)

I will see tonight if I can photograph something...
 
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