Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Peter’s brilliantly simple creation has, I am sure, made many of us want to follow his example. At the same time it has given us so much frustration because the parts and materials that he seems to have lying around are almost impossible to find by us mere mortals.

Having congratulated ourselves on having found an EZ31 or an EZ51, we have then discovered that it is practically impossible to find Blackgates or Dales not to mention Caddocks or MRS860’s.

When I eventually found a supplier of copper plate he asked me how many tons I wanted. The man I questioned for some ebony looked at me as if I was crazy. Now where can I look for some frosted acrylic?

This DIY thing is really making us have to think and use parts of our brains that have been dormant for so long. I am determined to finish it, however, not only to be able to enjoy the results myself, but also so I can show it off to my friends and say how clever I am.

I wonder what Peter's next masterpiece will have in store for us?
 
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Having congratulated ourselves on having found an EZ31 or an EZ51, we have then discovered that it is practically impossible to find Blackgates or Dales not to mention Caddocks or MRS860’s.

These components are not mandatory to have Shiga singing.
I have a Digikey open order, if you are interested in some parts I can buy them for you and ship to you later in France at cost (Digikey shipping is 18€ under 65€ order). Let me know.
 
When I eventually found a supplier of copper plate he asked me how many tons I wanted. The man I questioned for some ebony looked at me as if I was crazy. Now where can I look for some frosted acrylic?
I live downtown Milan, quite a big city indeed, but I found copper ... just around the bend. If you want I can buy one cutout of 5 mm thick sheet (if still available) and send it to you, but it's heavy, really heavy.
Acrylic: I couldn't find a frosted acrylic cutout (they asked me to buy the whole sheet 2 sqm), but I have a spare cutout of ICI Plexiglass 030 (white) 5 mm thick which is quite similar. It's glossy, but it can be easily sanded to get a matt finish.
I bought solid maoghany 1 cm thick, 4 high and 200 long at Castorama :)

P.S. where do you live in France?
 
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I just finalized most recent incarnation of the transport. This time, instead of frosted acrylic I used 1/8" aluminum top, which gives slimmer profile. With small aluminum buttons and dark window the looks are clean and simple and I like that Spartan appearance. So far it's my favorite.
 

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I live downtown Milan, quite a big city indeed, but I found copper ... just around the bend. If you want I can buy one cutout of 5 mm thick sheet (if still available) and send it to you, but it's heavy, really heavy.
Acrylic: I couldn't find a frosted acrylic cutout (they asked me to buy the whole sheet 2 sqm), but I have a spare cutout of ICI Plexiglass 030 (white) 5 mm thick which is quite similar. It's glossy, but it can be easily sanded to get a matt finish.
I bought solid maoghany 1 cm thick, 4 high and 200 long at Castorama :)

P.S. where do you live in France?

Thanks for your reply.
I was actually out hunting around yesterday and was passing in front of a doctor's surgery. Seeing his name plate was the trigger I needed so I then went round to a local engraving company and they had everything one could possibly need. Settled on 6mm copper plate for the base and 2mm aluminium for the top (even if they did have frosted plexiglass). They cut it to size there and then. Will just have to decide on the wood for the frame and put it all together. Looking forward to that!

p.s. I live in a small village on the Atlantic coast. Saint Vincent sur Jard. Nice place but far away from the big city-based suppliers.
 
These components are not mandatory to have Shiga singing.
I have a Digikey open order, if you are interested in some parts I can buy them for you and ship to you later in France at cost (Digikey shipping is 18€ under 65€ order). Let me know.

Hi M. Massimo.

As a newcomer to this hobby one of the most difficult things I am facing is choosing the right substitute product if I cannot put my hands on that which is recommended. I just don't have the experience. Capacitors are a big problem. What type of capacitor to use where - is the first question and the second is the supplier/model to choose. Until starting this project I did not even realise that there are similar problems with resistors, but apparantly there are.
What I have done on this project to get going is as follows:

For the power supply, I had a spare 13.8v regulated power supply so fed that through an LM7808 using a Panasonic FC 1000uF 35v on the input side and a panasonic FC 1000uF 25v on the output side.

I replaced C916 by an Elna RFS 47uF 25v and removed the bypass caps.

For A1 and A2 output resistors I used what I had available, i.e. two 600 ohm Sfernice's in parallel for the 300ohm and what I believe is a 5w wire-wound for the 100ohm (see pic).

This all gives me a pretty good sound but I have not mounted everything onto a solid base yet.

Any advice on my set-up would be most welcome.

In parallel with this Shigaclone project, I bought a small DAC from Hong Kong and modified it according to the "Experience with this DIY DAC" thread on this forum. I then bumped into the same problems of capacitor and resistor choice when hooking up the output transformers. The picture below shows what I did. It works but I don't know if I could do a lot better with different components. I should be posting this message on the other thread, I know, but I have a suspicion that a few of us are going down this same route and there may be matching implications to be considered when coupling the DAC to the Shigaclone.

Just for information, and not trying to overcomplicate things, I am putting the DAC output through a Lightspeed attenuator into a MyRef amp also made following other threads on this forum. My speakers are full range Audio Nirvana 10inch. I am overall pleased with the results but feel that the highs are sometimes too harsh, and who knows, maybe things could be a lot better with a bit of fine tuning.

Thanks for the offer to purchase through your Digikey account but before taking you up on that I would like to see what reactions I get to the above. It all adds to the learning curve.
 

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Peter,
Love your new design. Love to use wenge too. I recently finished my second transport, inspired by your creations.

Cocobolo top, wenge sides, 1/2" thick sheet of aluminum bottom. DIY remote to match. This CDT is mechanically a lot quieter than the first one I made.
 

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This all gives me a pretty good sound but I have not mounted everything onto a solid base yet.

Based on my limited experience, the most influential intervention (referring to sound quality) is on mechanical setup. I experienced dramatic changes on sound with different setups, more than swapping components. My final setup is a stiff wooden case with one single standoff and metal spikes or carbon blocks between the case and the shelf. This setup gave me the best result, but many followed different ways with good results as well. So I think there's not a single recipe good for everybody. You have to find yours. In my opinion the mechanical side is where to spend most time.
About components.
I started with separated power supply as Peter scheme (no BGs, but Rubycon ZLHs and Panasonic FCs, 7808 then replaced by a 2940 due to a failure).
The most influential (in terms of good sound) changes have been:
- removing ceramic bypass caps (C917 e C963)
- swapping stock oscillator with Citizen hot glued to the board
but, as for the case, many experienced different results.
 
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shigaclone question

Hi there!
I got my shigaclone connected to an VIMAK DS-2000 Dac but it won't lock. I can't get any sound. Now I read something about difficulties from that dac with certain transports, but did not expect the shigaclone to have that problem. Is there a solution to get it working together? I hope someone can answer my question. Grtz Teake