Service Manual: Post 67
CD Player mods: post 204
PS: post 6
CD Flatfish notes: post 792
Instructions to dismantle EZ31 is in the Service manual, I do not know if EZ51 is similar thought.
Shigi top
Finally almost finished the top of my shigi. The base has 4 old bricks for mass and it weighs 37 lbs! Remote works and the buttons will be done soon. Seperate PS on the left. It looks good and sounds great. Thanks to all for the great info to make this project sound great! Lots to be learned from this post.
Finally almost finished the top of my shigi. The base has 4 old bricks for mass and it weighs 37 lbs! Remote works and the buttons will be done soon. Seperate PS on the left. It looks good and sounds great. Thanks to all for the great info to make this project sound great! Lots to be learned from this post.
Attachments
Just spent several hours/days going over this huge thread and hope someone can tell me if I’ve got everything right below.
With the help of Okapi’s PDF mods and the CD FlatFish_Notes, I’m attempting to modify my EZ31 using Peter’s “minimal” build as suggested by him in post 2336; only replacing the power supply with new transformer, diodes and 7808 regulator and BG caps.
From Peter’s photos it also looks like C916 (E5) has been replaced with a BG N 47uF and maybe the power supplies BG STD 1000/25 has been bypassed with a BG 4.7/50 N? Both of these (I guess) are a matter of preference.
As far as removing components go (from the pdf mods doc), I’m removing R3 (C942), R4 (choke L901) and R5 (C952).
With the other side of the main board, I’m not too sure what (or if) I have to remove. From the pdf it says remove smd caps 2, 3, 4 and 6. I can’t find what these do and why they are removed – are these smd’s caps removed to enhance performance or do I remove these only if I’m getting the digital out directly from the chip?
Any feedback appreciated.
With the help of Okapi’s PDF mods and the CD FlatFish_Notes, I’m attempting to modify my EZ31 using Peter’s “minimal” build as suggested by him in post 2336; only replacing the power supply with new transformer, diodes and 7808 regulator and BG caps.
From Peter’s photos it also looks like C916 (E5) has been replaced with a BG N 47uF and maybe the power supplies BG STD 1000/25 has been bypassed with a BG 4.7/50 N? Both of these (I guess) are a matter of preference.
As far as removing components go (from the pdf mods doc), I’m removing R3 (C942), R4 (choke L901) and R5 (C952).
With the other side of the main board, I’m not too sure what (or if) I have to remove. From the pdf it says remove smd caps 2, 3, 4 and 6. I can’t find what these do and why they are removed – are these smd’s caps removed to enhance performance or do I remove these only if I’m getting the digital out directly from the chip?
Any feedback appreciated.
Hi Bikerboy
Nice endresult, woodlover as I am your clone is my taste
Here a pic of my homegrown silver/gold natural fibers (silk/paper/cotton) cable with my DIY RCA (Cocobolo-Silver Eichmann Tip) and ebony...uhh...."cable resonator".
This is the interconnect for my Shiga/Dac.
Tip:...I would certainly cover the open space on the left of the disc with the same wood so dust cannot enter the fragile moving parts.....
For the same reason I also always leave the last played cd on the mechanism
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...and the dac-6 Matriarch we (Anton and me) built (based upon Audionote dac 3 PvWillenswaard circuit) for the Shigaclone.
That is how enthousiastic we are about the Shiga....
It still performs like crazy...meaning 3-4 hours on a daily basis "just what the docter ordered", so definitely a much longer lifespan then 500 hours...it must be more like 2000-2500 hours by now, not letting me down once.....
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PSU cap replace
Hello! I'd like build a Shigaclone (with Peter's minimal conception). I have one of BG Std. 1000uF/25 cap, but haven't 2200uF/35 FK. I didn't found these in european on-line shops. Which capacitor can I use in the PSU instead FK ser. BG? The range: Elna Silmic 2200uF/25V, Nichicon FG 2200uF/25-35V, two paralel KZ or ES type 1000uF or two paralel Elna Cerafine ROA 1000uF/35V
Some experience anyone.
I'm sorry for a bad english, I don't quite understand need I remove the SMD caps on other side of the board, if I don't need exchange the E1-7 parts (in the pdf. doc).
Thanks for help.
Istvan from Hungary
Hello! I'd like build a Shigaclone (with Peter's minimal conception). I have one of BG Std. 1000uF/25 cap, but haven't 2200uF/35 FK. I didn't found these in european on-line shops. Which capacitor can I use in the PSU instead FK ser. BG? The range: Elna Silmic 2200uF/25V, Nichicon FG 2200uF/25-35V, two paralel KZ or ES type 1000uF or two paralel Elna Cerafine ROA 1000uF/35V
Some experience anyone.
I'm sorry for a bad english, I don't quite understand need I remove the SMD caps on other side of the board, if I don't need exchange the E1-7 parts (in the pdf. doc).
Thanks for help.
Istvan from Hungary
I'm using another BG STD in place of FK. Any other will work fine too, you just need to check what you like the best 1000uF is fine, I was using 2200uF as BG FK comes in that size.
I remove only two caps on transport board now: C952 and C916 (and their ceramic bypasses). Those are the caps before and after onboard 5V regulator. C952 is replaced by BG STD 1000uF in external 8V regulator, I install BG N 47/50 (or BG N 33/16) in place of C916.
1000uF is fine, I was using 2200uF as BG FK comes in that size.I remove only two caps on transport board now: C952 and C916 (and their ceramic bypasses). Those are the caps before and after onboard 5V regulator. C952 is replaced by BG STD 1000uF in external 8V regulator, I install BG N 47/50 (or BG N 33/16) in place of C916.
Help needed
Hi All,
Well, my DAC at last arrived from Hong Kong and I excitedly put everything together in David’s minimalistic approach on a trial set-up board.
When I started her up, she spent ages scanning the CD and then went to 00 and stopped. No button pressing got her to go any further.
I was not surprised that I would have a problem because at one stage in the assembly, after taking it out of the JVC case I knocked the CD player on the floor!!!
I thought it was a mechanical problem so I changed the top assembly with a spare I had bought – same result.
Then put everything back in the EZ35 case and had the same result.
My conclusion is that I have damaged the PCB.
It’s now very difficult to find EZ31’s or EZ51’s. (Mine is an EZ51)
Does anybody have a spare PCB to trade?
Alternatively, or better still, anybody know of a fix for my problem?
Hi All,
Well, my DAC at last arrived from Hong Kong and I excitedly put everything together in David’s minimalistic approach on a trial set-up board.
When I started her up, she spent ages scanning the CD and then went to 00 and stopped. No button pressing got her to go any further.
I was not surprised that I would have a problem because at one stage in the assembly, after taking it out of the JVC case I knocked the CD player on the floor!!!
I thought it was a mechanical problem so I changed the top assembly with a spare I had bought – same result.
Then put everything back in the EZ35 case and had the same result.
My conclusion is that I have damaged the PCB.
It’s now very difficult to find EZ31’s or EZ51’s. (Mine is an EZ51)
Does anybody have a spare PCB to trade?
Alternatively, or better still, anybody know of a fix for my problem?
Thanks for the info. Just bought the last one on the shelf. It is the EZ31B version with remote.
