Universal shunt regulator
You have another power supply option coming on-line with the formation of a new group buy.
Toolereg: shunt regulator
You have another power supply option coming on-line with the formation of a new group buy.
Toolereg: shunt regulator
today - i have decided to substitue my stands on the transport.... i have put wood there (similar to what Erik did).... only Erik is using ebony (i think) and i have put there padouk ..... man!!!!.... this is nice and easy mod to do.....
and the sound has changed a lot - everything is better.... much better..... i have to try the brass stands..... will see how that one is sounding too.....
and the sound has changed a lot - everything is better.... much better..... i have to try the brass stands..... will see how that one is sounding too.....
Erik - wood is my element for sure.... wood and metal - even better......
;D
today i have been playing with the analogue output of the player..... i put there Blak Gate N series - 4.7uF.... no way.... the original capacitors are far better in that position - i put them back and now i am finally listening to music again...
i do not know why people are telling the analogue output is not good....
i have put Mundorf silver wire from the pcb to the RCA connectors and connected it using Siltech interconnect - i have a tube preamplifier (based on 12B4A) and also a Studio amplifier from B. Jagodic.... it is a good system with Rega speakers at the end....
but this player at its analouge output is not something from other world but it is really good.... really....
it is good... you can listen to it without any problems like that too.....
;D
i can only imagine how good must the digital output be....
;D
today i have been playing with the analogue output of the player..... i put there Blak Gate N series - 4.7uF.... no way.... the original capacitors are far better in that position - i put them back and now i am finally listening to music again...
i do not know why people are telling the analogue output is not good....
i have put Mundorf silver wire from the pcb to the RCA connectors and connected it using Siltech interconnect - i have a tube preamplifier (based on 12B4A) and also a Studio amplifier from B. Jagodic.... it is a good system with Rega speakers at the end....
but this player at its analouge output is not something from other world but it is really good.... really....
it is good... you can listen to it without any problems like that too.....
;D
i can only imagine how good must the digital output be....
the analog output is not perfect just yet... i still need to put some copper under it and also to try brass stands for the transport..... but...... it is not that bad as some told here.... it is preety o.k.... and only with original caps..... i assume that, with some heavy copper under the transport , it will be very good if not even better....
i still have a lot of things to try but for sure i will have analog output out of my player..... ;D
i still have a lot of things to try but for sure i will have analog output out of my player..... ;D
Peter Daniel said:
<SNIP>
48VA Hammond transformer fits perfectly in a Hammond 1590T enclosure:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Diodes are mounted directly to connector socket:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
<SNIP>
Peter, one question... I think I vaguely remember you commenting in another thread some time back that for a separate power supply with remote transformers, you want to have only the transformer remote and the diodes and the rest of the power supply close to the actual circuit.
Is my memory faulty or did you really make this comment? And if you did, why do it differently here?
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. BTW, thanks for the simpler implementation! You are a master at elegant and effective physical implementations!
Hello guys
Is there anybody out there who has a longer (display) ribbon than the standard ribbon supplied.
I am very willing to pay the expenses.
I know that it is possible to hardwire it but that is a lot of extra work and besides not easy to make it detachable.
I have been on the internet and also visited a lot of shops.
The problem is also the correct width between the wires so cutting a wider ribbon is not always the right solution.
I reckon a 30 cm will be perfect
Is there anybody out there who has a longer (display) ribbon than the standard ribbon supplied.
I am very willing to pay the expenses.
I know that it is possible to hardwire it but that is a lot of extra work and besides not easy to make it detachable.
I have been on the internet and also visited a lot of shops.
The problem is also the correct width between the wires so cutting a wider ribbon is not always the right solution.
I reckon a 30 cm will be perfect
Hi folks
Time to post some pictures of my transport.. Iam running the transport 100% orginal atm all parts ate stock.. but i will be tasting new others caps the comming weeks
i did uplade some pics here http://photobucket.com/mr6b
Time to post some pictures of my transport.. Iam running the transport 100% orginal atm all parts ate stock.. but i will be tasting new others caps the comming weeks
i did uplade some pics here http://photobucket.com/mr6b
Attachments
kevinkr said:Valo, very nice.. Do you have a little clearance between the plastic mechanism housing and the top plate?
yes I have, I made a 45 degree edge around the hole so that the topplate gose clear
Peter, your latest version of the cd transport looks so miminalist and elegant.... hat off!
I've some questions for you:
How thick is the acrylic top?
Do you have a simple template for the cutout?
How thick is the copper bottom base?
Overall dimensions of the wooden frame?
Many thanks
Massimo
I've some questions for you:
How thick is the acrylic top?
Do you have a simple template for the cutout?
How thick is the copper bottom base?
Overall dimensions of the wooden frame?
Many thanks
Massimo
The acrylic (frosted) top is 1/4" thick. The bottom base is 3/16 and the overall dimensions of wooden frame are 6.6 x 8.6 x 1.5"
Unfortunately I didn't use any template. The easiest way to do it properly is to cut the top panel slightly larger. The circular opening is done with forstner bit size 1.25, the square opening for laser pickup is 1.12 x 2.3" (from edge of the center hole). After mechanism is attached to bottom panel, position and attach top panel and whatever overhang you have, trim with a router bit (flush trim).
Unfortunately I didn't use any template. The easiest way to do it properly is to cut the top panel slightly larger. The circular opening is done with forstner bit size 1.25, the square opening for laser pickup is 1.12 x 2.3" (from edge of the center hole). After mechanism is attached to bottom panel, position and attach top panel and whatever overhang you have, trim with a router bit (flush trim).
Again, thank you Peter.
How difficult is to mill acrylic material with a router? Does the plastic melt? I used to trim wood, alluminum (mainly 6082 aka anticorodal) and copper, but never acrylic material. I can vary the speed with my router and I suspect that I have to use it at its lowest speed.
How difficult is to mill acrylic material with a router? Does the plastic melt? I used to trim wood, alluminum (mainly 6082 aka anticorodal) and copper, but never acrylic material. I can vary the speed with my router and I suspect that I have to use it at its lowest speed.
sparkle said:Valo - very nice transport - can you tell us how is it sounding to you..... are you using the analog output too ???? ......
thanks......regards
Its sounds werry ok, not the best transport iam using 75R/75R on the output and iam using the stock dac in my Preamp (Premare SP31)
I have not tested analoge output, and i dont think i will be using it
ther is something that did confuse when someone says 301R/100R on the digital output what do they mean ? is it 301 on Dout and 100 on Gnd ?
valo said:
<snip>
ther is something that did confuse when someone says 301R/100R on the digital output what do they mean ? is it 301 on Dout and 100 on Gnd ?
Yes that is correct, but the recommended values based on the actual spdif standard would typically be 392 and 93.1 (standard 1% E-96 values), however 301 and 100 will also give a 75 ohm source at somewhat higher signal levels.
It is pretty likely with 75/75 that you are overloading the input receiver in your dac, and the terminating impedance is totally wrong as well. Either set of values listed above are likely to result in much better sound.
Note that I did not find the sound of my stock Shigaclone (RC-EZ32 based) all that enthralling, a very carefully designed power supply and changing a large number of the electrolytics to blackgates did it for me. I did the changes sequentially and noted a significant improvement each step of the way. Changing to Peter's recommended Citizen crystal was also a big improvement, but initially did not seem so - swapping back clinched the deal for me though.
Attachments
- Home
- Source & Line
- Digital Source
- Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story