A newbie here, so this might be a dumb question.....
I am re-purposing a small wooden box in which I am putting a 3" full range speaker in it. Sounds like lots of midrange from the speaker unless I do some serious EQ to the sound before it gets to the amp. But once I do that, it sounds pretty good.
So my question.... Is there a way to filter OUT some of the midrange frequencies? Since it is a single driver, can I get a 3 way passive crossover and connect the tweeter and woofer connections to the full range driver? Will that work... or is there a simpler answer?
I'm trying to make is so that you don't have to EQ the sound before sending the signal to the amp.
Thanks in advance.
I am re-purposing a small wooden box in which I am putting a 3" full range speaker in it. Sounds like lots of midrange from the speaker unless I do some serious EQ to the sound before it gets to the amp. But once I do that, it sounds pretty good.
So my question.... Is there a way to filter OUT some of the midrange frequencies? Since it is a single driver, can I get a 3 way passive crossover and connect the tweeter and woofer connections to the full range driver? Will that work... or is there a simpler answer?
I'm trying to make is so that you don't have to EQ the sound before sending the signal to the amp.
Thanks in advance.
You probably need a baffle step correction network. It is just a resister and an inductor wired in parallel. It lowers the level of the midrange. See this link to calculate the values of the components.
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short answer to question in first post
is; no
can I get a 3 way passive crossover and connect the tweeter and woofer connections to the full range driver?
is; no
If you have an EQ unit, you can localize what frequencies are bothering you the most and install a notch filter rather than a BSC or shelving network.
That's something to look into. How do I so this?
install a notch filter rather than a BSC or shelving network.
+1
An LCR will do the job, it's an Inductor, capacitor and resistor wired parallel and then put in series with the driver. The center frequency of the LCR should be where the midrange peak is. The resistor is there to regulate the ammount of midrange surpression.
What driver and baffle width are we talking about? I might be able to simulate something in Boxsim to give you some starting values for the LCR network.
Edit:
Ok, you have a 3" fullrange driver, lets say the enclosure has a width of approx 5.5" - 6" then I would start with the following values for the LCR.
L = 1,2mh (approx 0.3ohms)
C = 3,3uf
R = 6,8ohms (10watt resistor)
You could then change the resistor value to 8,2 or 10ohms to see what suits best.
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If you have another driver or can get one and if your box is big enough, you could make a bipole which is 2 drivers per box with 1 facing the front and 1 facing the back. This gets rid of the baffle step loss and actually increases those spl's. The speaker would have to be out from the wall 2 or 3 feet however.
Here is the driver that I am using:
Fountek FE85 3" Full Range Driver | 296-717
The box is .03 cubic feet in volume, which is a little bigger than the optimum sealed volume of .02 (according to the page).
Baffle width is 4.75 inches. This is inner measurement
Fountek FE85 3" Full Range Driver | 296-717
The box is .03 cubic feet in volume, which is a little bigger than the optimum sealed volume of .02 (according to the page).
Baffle width is 4.75 inches. This is inner measurement
Here is the driver that I am using:
Fountek FE85 3" Full Range Driver | 296-717
The box is .03 cubic feet in volume, which is a little bigger than the optimum sealed volume of .02 (according to the page).
Baffle width is 4.75 inches. This is inner measurement
Try the values of the LCR I recommended on page 1, they'll work with that driver and baffle width.
Hi,
Basically you need BSC much more than a midrange notch.
In reality you need both, more of the former than the latter.
Basically a parallel RL for BSC and add a C for tweaking treble,
but the C value is much higher than for a midrange notch.
rgds, sreten.
Good driver for a 1.5 way AFAICT.
Basically you need BSC much more than a midrange notch.
In reality you need both, more of the former than the latter.
Basically a parallel RL for BSC and add a C for tweaking treble,
but the C value is much higher than for a midrange notch.
rgds, sreten.
Good driver for a 1.5 way AFAICT.
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Hi,
Basically you need BSC much more than a midrange notch.
In reality you need both, more of the former than the latter.
Basically a parallel RL for BSC and add a C for tweaking treble,
but the C value is much higher than for a midrange notch.
rgds, sreten.
Good driver for a 1.5 way AFAICT.
Thats why I recommend an LCR, that includes the C.
L should be approx 1 or 1.2mh to compensate for the bafflestep and C (3,3uf) will dampen the uppermids and a bit of the lower highs. R will regulate the ammount of attenuation.
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