scottmoose
Hello,
you know the 3 oktave rule
http://www.lenardaudio.com/education/07_horns.html
and
look the example of the 10" AN the data of commonSence
with a very good test of audio club, scroll down.
http://www.audio-club.de/text.php?id=145&s=read
this effect is also happened for 8" driver thats why you
need help below 800 Hz.
my SAXOPHON shows it with my measurements.
if this BIB works listenable over 250 HZ it sounds coloured.
Hello,
you know the 3 oktave rule
http://www.lenardaudio.com/education/07_horns.html
and
look the example of the 10" AN the data of commonSence
with a very good test of audio club, scroll down.
http://www.audio-club.de/text.php?id=145&s=read
this effect is also happened for 8" driver thats why you
need help below 800 Hz.
my SAXOPHON shows it with my measurements.
if this BIB works listenable over 250 HZ it sounds coloured.
Then it sounds to me like the panels could do with some bracing to stop them singing along. I hope it's not made of MDF? 
Horst -re how high a pipe horn goes up, there's no one answer, because it rather depends on the damping strategy employed by the builder. FWIW, my various cabinets went up to ~250Hz, + / - 20Hz or so. I suspect this would be typical, as few people enjoy the sound of midrange coming out of the terminus as well as from the driver (though not being able to visit everyone who's built them in the world I can't give an exact figure of course). Reminds me: on a related issue, I've been meaning to ask but keep forgetting -what's the upper cut-off frequency of the Saxophon enclosure? About the same I imagine?
Yes I do know the 3 octave rule. It's not hard & fast as it happens, although it's certainly advisable to stay pretty near it. Nice site you linked to BTW -I haven't seen that one before. Nothing groundbreaking, but a nice introduction for people new to it I imagine.
As far as I'm concerned, most glorified midranges / large tweeters (which is all an FR unit is) either need Eq of some description to counter the inductive rise, or a front horn. There's nothing that can be practically done to completely counter the rising response many (most) exhibit with a back-loaded cabinet alone, minus electrical Eq, or adding a 2nd driver to add efficiency in the LF & rolling it off as the response of the single original unit starts to climb. Not without obvious time & phase discontinuities anyway. Thing is, not that many people interested in FR drivers want to add Eq or another driver, for many reasons, of which cost, and the fact that both of the above methods bring with them problems of their own are probably highest. So, we have to do the best we can.
Horst -re how high a pipe horn goes up, there's no one answer, because it rather depends on the damping strategy employed by the builder. FWIW, my various cabinets went up to ~250Hz, + / - 20Hz or so. I suspect this would be typical, as few people enjoy the sound of midrange coming out of the terminus as well as from the driver (though not being able to visit everyone who's built them in the world I can't give an exact figure of course). Reminds me: on a related issue, I've been meaning to ask but keep forgetting -what's the upper cut-off frequency of the Saxophon enclosure? About the same I imagine?
Yes I do know the 3 octave rule. It's not hard & fast as it happens, although it's certainly advisable to stay pretty near it. Nice site you linked to BTW -I haven't seen that one before. Nothing groundbreaking, but a nice introduction for people new to it I imagine.
As far as I'm concerned, most glorified midranges / large tweeters (which is all an FR unit is) either need Eq of some description to counter the inductive rise, or a front horn. There's nothing that can be practically done to completely counter the rising response many (most) exhibit with a back-loaded cabinet alone, minus electrical Eq, or adding a 2nd driver to add efficiency in the LF & rolling it off as the response of the single original unit starts to climb. Not without obvious time & phase discontinuities anyway. Thing is, not that many people interested in FR drivers want to add Eq or another driver, for many reasons, of which cost, and the fact that both of the above methods bring with them problems of their own are probably highest. So, we have to do the best we can.
no no it isn't MDF. It is natural fir wood.
A lot of my friend, actually 2, now have fostex fullrange driver. The new addition is some one who want not too big cabinet with fe126e.I think BIB is ok, it should be one meter high looking at the design on zillaspeak site.
The only complain I hear is about the high at high volume, but the thing is ok because if they have big room you can listen far away.
A lot of my friend, actually 2, now have fostex fullrange driver. The new addition is some one who want not too big cabinet with fe126e.I think BIB is ok, it should be one meter high looking at the design on zillaspeak site.
The only complain I hear is about the high at high volume, but the thing is ok because if they have big room you can listen far away.
Attachments
Bracing. You need it. That fir doesn't look very old to me, so I'm betting it's still got a fair bit of moisture in it & it's not as stiff as old, fully seasoned wood. Fir's a nice material for speaker enclosures actually, but when you have large panels, it does need some support.
Try a piece of plywood, with lots of holes cut in it so about 50% of the material is removed, and about 15in long, placed down the terminus (preferably off-centre), so it braces the two side-walls. That should cut down on a bit of panel resonance.
Try a piece of plywood, with lots of holes cut in it so about 50% of the material is removed, and about 15in long, placed down the terminus (preferably off-centre), so it braces the two side-walls. That should cut down on a bit of panel resonance.
All the gaskets I've ever seen aren't attached to either really. When you screw or bolt the driver to the enclosure, the gasket is simply compressed between them, like the head-gasket on a car, or other examples.
Re bringing the tweeter in, experimentation is the key. Whichever point sounds best to you. We can tell you what we like, but that doesn't mean you will.
Re bringing the tweeter in, experimentation is the key. Whichever point sounds best to you. We can tell you what we like, but that doesn't mean you will.
I would start with the smaller capacitor and see if you feel more tweet is needed. If you do, try the larger cap. If it's too much tweet you need something somewhere in between. I always enjoy this critical listening process. Once you find the best cap value you can sit back and enjoy for as long as you like knowing you spent the time to get the best sound.
As for the gasket, simply place it between the cabinet and the baffle.
I bet this will be an amazing sounding pair of speakers. I'd build them if i had the room.
Godzilla
As for the gasket, simply place it between the cabinet and the baffle.
I bet this will be an amazing sounding pair of speakers. I'd build them if i had the room.
Godzilla
I finally had some time to try the drivers. But in the Fe208E sigma horn cabinet, because I hadn't the right tools.
The result:FANTASTICO!!
After a really short A/B with FE206E in same cabinet, at low/moderate volume:
Little more bass with ff225k, especially in 100hz region, while below the amount of bass is the same.
The FF225K is less detailed. But it's a lot more musical, you can listen to complicate track and understand the musical message.
No listen fatigue. You know sometime the fe206e is confusional with some cd.
The combo has very very detailed high but they're very smooth. If you switch between the 2 driver, you can listen that fe206e has a lot more midrange but actually it has more closed sound because it goes less high( listen to piano, gong, clash ecc).
The result:FANTASTICO!!
After a really short A/B with FE206E in same cabinet, at low/moderate volume:
Little more bass with ff225k, especially in 100hz region, while below the amount of bass is the same.
The FF225K is less detailed. But it's a lot more musical, you can listen to complicate track and understand the musical message.
No listen fatigue. You know sometime the fe206e is confusional with some cd.
The combo has very very detailed high but they're very smooth. If you switch between the 2 driver, you can listen that fe206e has a lot more midrange but actually it has more closed sound because it goes less high( listen to piano, gong, clash ecc).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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