apparently I didn't. thank you for the suggestion, I will look into it!
Same applies to any speaker WRT limitations; you pick the compromises that best suit a given design criteria. In principle, I agree, although it depends what you call adequate volume capability, and also what is considered acceptable in terms of LF dynamic range / extension etc.
Since I know you like to crank it loud Chris, XO short-cut no.1: LR4 slopes. Most of the time, they give you the best powerhandling compromise. Not always, depends on the drive units & XO frequency etc., but most of the time.
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I love the B&W's I generally push them to reasonable levels. Don't annoy the neighbors which is about 6W. The amp is a 100W Pass Aleph 4 capable of 100W and I do use it all occasionally.
I would like to better the B&W 683's but it's one big gamble DIY.
Realistically I'd be happier to spend £6000 on a pair of trusted 802D's.
I would like to better the B&W 683's but it's one big gamble DIY.
Realistically I'd be happier to spend £6000 on a pair of trusted 802D's.
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You should stay in your comfort zone, I wouldn't advise anyone to get involved in speaker building unless they had either carpentry skills or the desire to acquire them. For what it's worth, I have Vienna Acoustics Beethovens, Quad 988's, 15" Tannoys in GRF cabs and Klipsche Heresy's. I like them all in different ways but my favorites are a pair of Woden Vulcans that I run with Fe203 en-s (Which they were not designed for) and a sub. Each to his own.
I'm running LR4 at 500Hz between some Fostex FE126eNs, and Tang Band W6-1139 woofers (the latter have about 120w/ch to play with, the former 10w/ch, biamped).
I don't often crank it, but when I do I don't want to have to dive at the controls to bring the TBs up to the same volume as the Fostexes. FWIW, the TBs are receiving a couple of watts (the Signal light comes on, indicating 2-3v output) at that point, so nothing's close to clipping.
I wonder if perhaps the Fostexes suffer from a THD rise as volume goes up, which makes them sound much louder than the Tang Bands.
KatieandDad, do you have any other amplifiers lying around? I'm thinking wire one amplifier direct to the bass drivers, the other to the mid/tweeters, and use a line-level crossover to go between the mids and bass drivers. This would give you a fair idea of what going active will do to your system.
I wasn't keen on the 802D speakers when I had a listen. IMHO, not worth the huge price-tag: DIY can better them!
Chris
Probably Chris; I haven't looked at the data for a while, but it wouldn't surprise me.
I was speaking generally though rather than for your specific speakers, since you mentioned you were moving more into multiway types. As an ROT, LR4 will usually provide the optimal compromise for powerhandling.
I was speaking generally though rather than for your specific speakers, since you mentioned you were moving more into multiway types. As an ROT, LR4 will usually provide the optimal compromise for powerhandling.
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