After the proof of concept monkey coffins I poster earlier, I finally started building the cabinets for my FAST project. I will be using the "Translam" method, mainly due to my limited access to nice tools like a table saw (or even a shed for that matter) All I have is a router, jigsaw and a workmate.
The sides will be made from 24mm baltic birch ply and will function as the L26ROY's baffle. The middle 9 slices are water proof MDF. Bracing will be extensive. to get the resonating frequency above 200hz as much as possible. (200 hz will be the crossover point between the two drivers)
The Alpair 7.3 will be housed in a separate chamber, designed to minimiste standing waves. This chamber will be made heavy and thick by adding car audio deadening mats to keep it's resonating frequency below 200 hz as much as possible. Here are a few pics of the progress so far:
The sides will be made from 24mm baltic birch ply and will function as the L26ROY's baffle. The middle 9 slices are water proof MDF. Bracing will be extensive. to get the resonating frequency above 200hz as much as possible. (200 hz will be the crossover point between the two drivers)
The Alpair 7.3 will be housed in a separate chamber, designed to minimiste standing waves. This chamber will be made heavy and thick by adding car audio deadening mats to keep it's resonating frequency below 200 hz as much as possible. Here are a few pics of the progress so far:
I am inspired. Keep up the good work. I have been looking at how to do a teardrop for the 7.3. Just seems like a cool idea and there is another fellow doing it with a Fostex. I will try combining the 7's with a T-TQWT for my CA 22RNX. Bjorno simmed one for me and it looks usable up to 150-200Hz. May I ask why you dropped the OB concept?
I thought I remember you had them in OB setup, oh well, too many threads in my head.
Goto uses an OB.
Winter has ended, weather is improving, so onward with the build!
For the cabinets I am using a combination of waterproof MDF and Birch Ply. The Birch will be used for both side panels and MDF for the rest. The MDF part will be haevily reinforced and stiffened by birch ply supports as shown in the picture. Furthermore I will cross brace all panels extensively with broom handle sticks. Pics of that will follow.
The first cabinet is ready for the final sanding/filling/finishing! Yay!
For the cabinets I am using a combination of waterproof MDF and Birch Ply. The Birch will be used for both side panels and MDF for the rest. The MDF part will be haevily reinforced and stiffened by birch ply supports as shown in the picture. Furthermore I will cross brace all panels extensively with broom handle sticks. Pics of that will follow.
The first cabinet is ready for the final sanding/filling/finishing! Yay!
Yup looking great.
Boenicke-audio inspired shell?
Look forward to your listening impressions.
I had to google Boenicke-audio to see what you meant, nice to see the resemblance. Great minds...
Swifty, those look mighty big fun, not mention a lot of repetitive jigsawing and routing.
(I indeed have an OB arrangment supported by modified IPL TLs. Still experimenting, but it is making some fab music.)
I have toyed with something along these lines, but lack the time or router skills to make a passable attempt right now.
Can't wait for the finished report.
(I indeed have an OB arrangment supported by modified IPL TLs. Still experimenting, but it is making some fab music.)
I have toyed with something along these lines, but lack the time or router skills to make a passable attempt right now.
Can't wait for the finished report.
looks great! really like the veneer/woofer combo, what kind of veneer did you use? and where did you get it?
Hi Gerben,
It's American walnut paper-backed veneer from the Lignaflex brand. I got it via Marktplaats, but you should be able to buy this at de Arnhemse Fijnhouthandel (Arnhemse Fijnhouthandel - Teak Eiken + 120 andere houtsoorten, plaatmateriaal en fineer.).
Please note by the way that the photo's show the untreated veneer. The look will change quite dramatically after applying the finish (Osmo hardwax oil). The tone will be much more brown/red instead of the almost purplish hue of the untreated walnut.
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