You can not make such a conclusion without listening to it yourself.
It could be.
Good. Study, build, test, listen - or just start saving and buy the darn thing...
Yes, if they are from upper GR range (Idss > 4mA)
They don't know and won't guarantee it. In telephone conversation they told me to buy a few and check for my self if they are a real deal. I don't really need them so I decided it's too much hassle...
Of course you can draw the transfer curve by measuring Id vs. Vgs, You can save a lot of time with Atlas DCA 75 pro - it's a nice and cheap parts tester that can be used as curve tracer through USB connection with PC:
ATLAS DCA75 PRO: Komponententester DCA75 PRO, für Halbleiterbauelemente bei reichelt elektronik
The link NicMac gave you is a good place to buy the parts. I don't know any reliable source in Germany for k170/j74.
ATLAS DCA75 PRO: Komponententester DCA75 PRO, für Halbleiterbauelemente bei reichelt elektronik
The link NicMac gave you is a good place to buy the parts. I don't know any reliable source in Germany for k170/j74.
I have built a F7 clone from info provided on this forum with help from some members along with the F6 and F5. All three similar sounding with subtle differences. The F5 is the simplest to build with a dedicated following. If you own conventional speakers I believe the F5 would be a good choice. The best thing about FW clones is with some board stuffing you can stick some different boards in your build for just a little money and have a new amplifier.
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I told you already:
1) Answer to that question would be my preference and it might be very different from yours;
2) I refuse to give recomendations to people on what-to-build subject;
3) build both and decide for yourself. It's only 20 EUR worth of parts.
Please stop asking same questions over and over again and trying to extort the answer you like - It's embarassing...
1) Answer to that question would be my preference and it might be very different from yours;
2) I refuse to give recomendations to people on what-to-build subject;
3) build both and decide for yourself. It's only 20 EUR worth of parts.
Please stop asking same questions over and over again and trying to extort the answer you like - It's embarassing...
Ok I will test out myself.
The only thing I would avoid to spend 120euro of matched 2013/313 if I can achieve 80% of their performance with FQP3N30 (40 cent a piece)
Pass recommends them as a viable alternative ba3
I think this can be of interest for many readers of the forum
Un any case I will stop asking embarrassing questions and apologies if they have hurted any sensitivity
The only thing I would avoid to spend 120euro of matched 2013/313 if I can achieve 80% of their performance with FQP3N30 (40 cent a piece)
Pass recommends them as a viable alternative ba3
I think this can be of interest for many readers of the forum
Un any case I will stop asking embarrassing questions and apologies if they have hurted any sensitivity
Characteristics differences will result in quite different presentation when used for F5/BA3Pre.
If you take your time and read up the important F5 thread, you would have found that other builders found "easier on the wallet" J200/K1529 and J201/K1530 pairs with closer characteristics to the J313/K2013 parallel pairs to be very nice.
But never ever let price of parts fool you. There is never a guarantee that you will have more enjoyable experience from more expensive, exotic, rare, old or other desirable traits parts; including datasheet figures and associated distortion characteristics. They can be used as a rough guide but nothing can replace real world build, listen and measure experience. For me, I build, measure just to make sure it won't release the magic smoke or kill my speakers and listen, dismantle if it does not sound good, other measurements come in after the build shows good potential.
Dear Marconi, I heard an F5 at a Friend's place. It was pimped by using very good resistors and a CLC PSU instead of CRC. The rest was as posted in the F5 thread, means IRF240/9240 (1 Dollar parts). It was close enough to my Pass V-Fet DIY Amp, which I really like. I could live with that very well for a long time. Others as well. Just my 2 cents, even slightly off topic.
Cheers
Cheers
Not entirely correct, they simply sound different. Some people find them exceptionally good in their system. As an example, here is one by Bear, a senior member whose opinion even John Curl respects. Please note his use of the word "really" twice before the word "nice".
I'd have to mortgage everything just to acquire his type of audio toys. Go figure.
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