Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and help. After i was tighten the Q4 it runs with same temperature as others.
I'm thinking to build new chassis for the amplifier as i have some nice Fischer SK159 heat sinks, but on the other hand they are probably overkill. Better save them for further more powerful projects as F5-V3 or something similar?
I'm thinking to build new chassis for the amplifier as i have some nice Fischer SK159 heat sinks, but on the other hand they are probably overkill. Better save them for further more powerful projects as F5-V3 or something similar?
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Thanks! Not super-experienced, this project will definitely be a bit of a stretch for me, but I think I'm up to it. My last project was building and modifying a Bottlehead Crack. After the stock build I did the Speedball, replaced the volume pot, replaced the output caps with film caps, upgraded the diodes in the rectifier to some nice Cree Schottkys, and replaced one of the resistors in the voltage regulator with a choke. I've done a ton of through-hole soldering in general, and even a bit of SMD, but pretty much everything I've built has been from a full kit. This will be maybe my third project where I have to collect everything myself, and definitely involve more decision-making than any of my previous builds. I'm sure I'll be asking a ton of questions. I've read the F5 and F5T PDFs a few times already and intend to become much more familiar with them before proceeding.
Apparently I ended up ordering almost everything I listed in my first post last night whilst three sheets to the wind. So I would need to order another transformer and PSU set if I do end up going with dual supplies, but I still need to order several more bits and bobs anyways so no big deal. Is a single 5U chassis enough dissipation for that much heat though? I've seen some people building dual mono with two power supplies in a single 5U chassis and have wondered. Also do I really need that much power? I listed 150W as the max my speakers are rated for, but they certainly don't need that much. People tend to report them happiest around 50W and up. Then again I'm currently using the SA300 which has an 80W Class D amp from Infineon, maybe I do want to go for the 100W that the F5Tv3 can offer. I don't want to build true monoblocks though, I don't have the space or budget for that.
The Speedball was a huge upgrade to the Crack, so I'm definitely interested in Cascoding, although I'm not sure it will have as big an audible impact in the F5 as it did in the Crack.
Definitely interested to hear y'alls thoughts. Thanks again!
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Totally makes sense, thanks again! I'm pretty settled on a 2ch V2. Definitely still have a lot more research to do though.
verticalmammal:
Get the 5U/400mm instead. I mounted the power supply pcbs in my F5T V3s on standoffs above the toroids and the extra vertical space is helpful. That will leave you plenty of available floorspace if, at a later point, you decide to add capacitors to increase the size of your power supply (I did that as well, migrating from a CRC to a CRCRC).
Regards,
Scott
There is no problem to have 2x2KVA transformers and 4 universal PSU boards in a 4U400mm chassis
And 2x300-400VA transformers and 2 PSU boards are realy no stress. It would even fit in e 3U400mm chassis I'm planing for a dual mono M2X in 3U400mm chassis, with 2x300VA transformers and 2 PSU boards. And softstart and DC protection.
And 2x300-400VA transformers and 2 PSU boards are realy no stress. It would even fit in e 3U400mm chassis
I'm planing for a dual mono M2X in 3U400mm chassis, with 2x300VA transformers and 2 PSU boards. And softstart and DC protection.There is no problem to have 2x2KVA transformers and 4 universal PSU boards in a 4U400mm chassis
And 2x300-400VA transformers and 2 PSU boards are realy no stress. It would even fit in e 3U400mm chassis
Thanks Scott and San! Among other things I ordered the 5U chassis, a UPS PCB kit and the Antek AN-6224 transformer (600VA 24V/24V) a few days ago whilst drunk. I may not have been making the best choices overall at that point, but I think I selected the right chassis for my build.
I'm definitely interested in hearing more about your power configurations. I was originally planning on a single supply, but I think this "dual mono" configuration with two supplies and really better overall power handling is starting to seem like the better choice for my 4ohm speakers. I do want to cascode.
Noob question time:
I'm guessing that going to CRCRC involves fully building two sets of the power supply capacitor boards, adding more stages of ripple reduction?
One poster previously suggested that I omit the diode boards from the power supplies, why would I do that?
Are there differences between a Stereo amp and a Dual Mono amp? Or are the terms interchangeable?
Thanks again!!!
You already got the transformer. So use that. But you can link together 2 PSU bord's to get CRCRC supply. And 16X15.000uF caps.
I mentioned to drop the diodes, but not the rectifier. But you can use monolitic bridges instead of the diodebrides. I was talking about the diodes on the outputboards (to make it e V1 instead of V2).
It's easyer to avoid groundloops with a dual mono amp. And it looks better And you might get e tiny bit less crosstalk.
I mentioned to drop the diodes, but not the rectifier. But you can use monolitic bridges instead of the diodebrides. I was talking about the diodes on the outputboards (to make it e V1 instead of V2).
It's easyer to avoid groundloops with a dual mono amp. And it looks better
And you might get e tiny bit less crosstalk.
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I actually have 16 extra 15000uf caps. I was actually thinking of exactly that solution today: linking them together. Any drawbacks in that approach? Should work wonderfully to reduce ripple and increase capacitance, no? Any drawbacks? I am also considering going P2P, but that is easiest with porn big caps instead of snap in’s.
You already got the transformer. So use that. But you can link together 2 PSU bord's to get CRCRC supply. And 16X15.000uF caps.
I mentioned to drop the diodes, but not the rectifier. But you can use monolitic bridges instead of the diodebrides. I was talking about the diodes on the outputboards (to make it e V1 instead of V2).
It's easyer to avoid groundloops with a dual mono amp. And it looks better
Ah, my misunderstanding, thank you!
I think soon I will pick up the back panel parts kit and the soft start combo as well as a second set of Universal Power Supply boards. Wondering if I need a second transformer or if the one will get me where I want to go.
I've been studying the illustrated build guide by the wonderful 6L6, as well as a few videos by a man named Robert/NocturneVid66 on youtube. Both seem to cover building pretty much the same cascoded F5T V2s, with 6L6 running one transformer and UPS kit and Robert running two. I've noticed in Nelson's schematics there are 16 caps where the illustrated guide uses 8x22KuF to get there, very interesting. I noticed some discussion on this earlier after my first post. I definitely still have a ton of research to do.
No drawback what so ever
As long as it doesn’t exacerbate common impedance I am one happy camper. Thanks! Will consider.
You already got the transformer. So use that. But you can link together 2 PSU bord's to get CRCRC supply. And 16X15.000uF caps.
I mentioned to drop the diodes, but not the rectifier. But you can use monolitic bridges instead of the diodebrides. I was talking about the diodes on the outputboards (to make it e V1 instead of V2).
It's easyer to avoid groundloops with a dual mono amp. And it looks better
Awesome! In that case I'll order a second set of PSU boards, the soft start kit, and the back panel kit, but not an additional transformer. That should get me most of the way there, minus a digikey order or two.
This should let me follow the F5Tv2 (with cascodes) and UPSv3 illustrated build guides by 6L6 almost exactly, with the exception of the power supply configuration where I will chain two sets of capacitor/resistor boards with 16x15KuF caps instead of one set of boards with 8x~22KuF (or higher) caps, correct?
I'm glad to hear one transformer is enough, but now that I'm thinking about it, If I'm already buying a second set of PSU boards it's tempting to grab another transformer anyways, and follow Robert/NocturneVid66's build exactly. He's also building his to drive a pair of 4ohm speakers like I am, although his Magnepans are probably thirstier than my bookshelf HiVis. Another $60-80 but something tells me I will avoid crosstalk as you suggest and I suspect it may improve imaging. Plus, in the immortal words of Jeremy Clarkson, "more power!" Still not sure about it though. I'm building this as an upgrade to a working component I already own so I'm in no hurry, all the time in the world to decide on these things and fully finalize my plan. That being said I'm really excited to see this plan start to shape up, again my continued thanks for y'alls help!
Makes sense. Robert's build uses one thermistor per transformer channel so four total on the hot inputs to try and fight that, as well as one per ground in parallel with the monolithic rectifiers. But he's also not using the Soft Start board. I think one transformer with 16 caps and the soft start is my play, with one thermistor per transformer channel as well for three all day (including the ground) on the transformer side of things.
Learning a ton, really glad I chose this project.
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After researching the Soft Start a bit more, people are reporting putting 2kVA through it with no issues. I may end up going dual mono after all, given this. I think I'll probably use 15kuF caps either way.
Good morning
I'm nicola and writing from Italy.
Please, excuse me to my terrible english.
I'm starting with my F5 Turbo V1. (I've possibility to pass V2)
I've need your help.
I bought this material
On diy store:
UNIVERSAL POWER SUPPLY
BOARD F5-T
toroidal 600W with 2x25
Soft Start
Speaker protection
and
HiFi2000 4U400
My questions:
in italy there is 220V not 115v, Do I change somenthig in my power supply?
Which are the values in Test Point (TP)?
In power supply I use nichicon Cap 15000-35V, is it correct?
Thank You.
nicola
I'm nicola and writing from Italy.
Please, excuse me to my terrible english.
I'm starting with my F5 Turbo V1. (I've possibility to pass V2)
I've need your help.
I bought this material
On diy store:
UNIVERSAL POWER SUPPLY
BOARD F5-T
toroidal 600W with 2x25
Soft Start
Speaker protection
and
HiFi2000 4U400
My questions:
in italy there is 220V not 115v, Do I change somenthig in my power supply?
Which are the values in Test Point (TP)?
In power supply I use nichicon Cap 15000-35V, is it correct?
Thank You.
nicola
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![[000646].jpg](/community/data/attachments/837/837090-3d8c5ee567af8b948041457daa706ada.jpg)