F1 Service Manual

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I believe what lumanauw was asking was whether Nelson built each amp personally, as opposed to Kent, Wayne, et. al. at the main facility. After all, Nelson has billed this as a 'kitchen table,' hands-on effort on his part.
I try to make allowances for folks for whom English is not a native language. I am, however, greatly offended by some of the things that I see posted by American, Canadian, British, and Australian posters, i.e. English-speaking people. A simple typo is one thing--we all do that from time to time--but some posts look like they were composed by near-illiterates. Sad...very sad.
The only language I've ever had formal instruction in was French and that was quite some time ago. I've since picked up a smattering of Italian, Spanish, Russian, and Latin. There's no way I would do even as well as lumanauw in any of those languages, so I'm grateful that the 'native language' of this site is English.
In fact, it astonishes me how well some of our non-English-speaking members handle a difficult language (English is reputed to be right up there with Chinese for difficulty--I wouldn't know, I grew up in it, so it's natural to me) and on a technically oriented site, as well. My hat's off to you guys.

Grey

EDIT: Nelson, seeing as how the schematic is the star of the show in most peoples' eyes, what if you left the DOC file alone and posted a PDF of just the schematic? That should be a very reasonable download if it were just the one page, even at high resolution.
 
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george a said:
Hi all

I wonder how would this beast go as a tweeter amp in a tri amp setup (say with an XT25 - approx 91dB efficiency) compared to an aleph 30??? -Currently mid is an Aleph 5, top is a dh-200 (to be replaced) xover is a dcx2496

Thanks again Nelson!:)


ha!
in any case F1 must be better (mucho better) than DH200 on tweets.
I know that - I have once DH200 in ancient past.......more voltage than you need and not enough (milli)Amperes for really serious sound
 
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Yes, I did build these by hand, although for a short time last
year Karen did some of the board stuffing and mounting
of connectors on the rear panels, and last summer Chris and
Matt mounted feet and transformers on bottom panels

As requested, here's the pdf of just the channel schematic:
 

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R20 connection

On further review, I see that both PCB layouts AND the schematic show R20 connected to one output node. So I imagine that all drawings are accurate in this regard, and that the purpose of this connection is to ensure that the LED goes out fast on switchoff.
 
GRollins said:
My hat's off to you guys.

Grey,

my best friends at university were exchange students from Indonesia, all die-hard math wizards.
In those days classes at polytech were in Dutch.
Despite of them having had Dutch lessons in Indonesia and a year of Dutch classes before starting regular classes i am still astonished those guys mastered something that is generally considered difficult overhere.
I speak some Malayan, i've had a brotherinlaw from Indonesia since i was 10, i was married to someone partly Indonesian.
My cousin is half Indonesian, so is my son, for the last 35 years i have cooked and eaten Indonesian food every week
Still, Lumanauw masters English a lot better than i do Malayan.

This i have told Lumanauw a long time ago.
This place is nice because of things interesting to read and/or they can be funny.
Lumanauw's devotion to Pass gear is admirable, and he can be funny.
It is because of respect that i tell him he can be funny.
I take my hat off for anyone investing an effort to communicate with others.

The F1 manual with even the board layout added is like a bonbon on a platter.
Anyone found a thumbprint on it we can copy, guys ?:clown:
 
Mr.Pass,

I wonder why the absence of supply by-pass film caps, either on the PSU board or the amp itself? Will they add too much sparkle in the high frequency? And what about the inductance of the high value PS caps; they could have been lowered by placing parallel caps with lower inductance... or is there a catch to this type of supply for a transconductance amplifier with its high output impedance?

What is your opinion of using this amp with the following Fostex drivers, mounted in a Voigt Tapered Line enclosure:- FE166E, FE167E, FE206E, FE207E?

Or does the FE208E Sigma sound the best as you had opined elsewhere?

Thanks for your magnanimous gesture in giving the DIY enthusiast full details of the F1, after completing its production run of only 100 numbers. What is a 100 units compared to the population and demand out there?

Nelson, what is the next thing after F2, cascode the F1???
 
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lumanauw said:
Hi, Grey,

Yes, I know Jacco is an ex-military with wife connected to my country. He likes humor :D

I never meet Mr. Pass. I don't know why, I tought at Nelson Pass calibre, he never touch soldering iron, only doing thinking, maybe for the last 10 years? I'm wrong here. :D He still do.

hehe, "at Nelson Pass calibre" ,I think that he do more than just few things for pure pleasure;
hangin' here and feeding all us trolls must be just one of those things
 
The one and only
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Samuel Jayaraj said:
I wonder why the absence of supply by-pass film caps, either on the PSU board or the amp itself?

What is your opinion of using this amp with the following Fostex drivers, mounted in a Voigt Tapered Line enclosure:- FE166E, FE167E, FE206E, FE207E?

Or does the FE208E Sigma sound the best as you had opined elsewhere?

What is a 100 units compared to the population and demand out there?

1) The circuit has a constant draw (through balanced constant
current sources) and the common mode impedance is hundreds
of ohms as seen by the supply. I didn't find any improvement
with a film bypass, and the only signal bearing (input) caps are
already film types. By contrast, the F2 has bypass on the supply
and the output. If you want to dress up your own supplies with
film caps, that's fine with me, but I usually only use them when I
can detect an improvement.

2) I don't find a lot of difference between the 166/167 or
206/207, but since I don't need magnetic shielding my preference
is for the 166/206. As to sound, I think of them in the same
vein as Lowthers, but they are less expensive, less efficient,
and have less edge to them. They do have a pretty smooth
character and their sins are pretty much sins of omission. They
do like a high source impedance. The top end of the 206 is
lacking some of the qualities we want, but you can always put
a tweeter on top, or as mentioned before, use the FE208EZ
with a tweeter.

3) Offhand, 100 units seems to have matched the retail
demand fairly closely. From my standpoint, there is no risk as
I don't actually need another income and the chassis and most
of the components are standard to all the designs I intend to
make. Since it takes my time to build them, I am not really
looking for demand to exceed the 100 figure.

Please note that my policy will be to announce my quantity
commitments, or lack of them, with the formal product
announcements. Those who care about the specifics of any
particular run will want to pay attention to those announcements.

As an example, I haven't yet decided about Aleph J's, and I
expect that the commitment to F3's will quite small.

:cool:
 
Thanks Nelson for your detailed post. From what you say based on experiments, there is no standard way of doing things in audio, not even PSUs. Everything needs to be auditioned finally. Then there is ofcourse, the subjectivist/objectivist camp.

Of all the Fostex drivers, you seem to prefer the sound of the FE208EZ; there must be something to the Sigma range.

Is there someone who can point me to sources from which Lowthers are obtainable? Perhaps, investing on the DX55 should take me closer to Audio nirvana with the F1 for the present, and I suspect that the Lowthers will be a closer match for the forthcoming F2.

Thanks again,
 
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