Hi!
I just wanted to push for Ruhstrat speaker connectors. They are extreme towards perverse!
Check the 400A model in pure copper, weight one pound, 400 g!!! The blue one in the picture is for 200 amps.
I must add that they don't are intended for speakers. They are for heavy industrial use.
http://www.ruhstrat.com/eng/klemm_buchsen_1.htm
http://www.ruhstrat.com/eng/index_eng.htm
If anyone are interested in buying, drop me a note. I can also get datasheets in pdf (made from paper).
I just wanted to push for Ruhstrat speaker connectors. They are extreme towards perverse!
Check the 400A model in pure copper, weight one pound, 400 g!!! The blue one in the picture is for 200 amps.
I must add that they don't are intended for speakers. They are for heavy industrial use.
http://www.ruhstrat.com/eng/klemm_buchsen_1.htm
http://www.ruhstrat.com/eng/index_eng.htm
If anyone are interested in buying, drop me a note. I can also get datasheets in pdf (made from paper).
Re: Markups....
454 grams = 1 pound
mrfeedback said:Ok, how much for 400g of copper ?
Eric.
454 grams = 1 pound
cocolino said:
Do You have any prices?
The prices are industrial not "audiophilical", quite affordable.
cocolino said:I like the style as the blue one on the picture - but maybe a bit smaller would be perfect.
The 400 A connector is much bigger than the blue one! Very cool if you big things and have big hands....
German manufacturer using 1 pound binding posts? There are several makers of that type post and several amps that use them or the smaller kind but German I can only think of the obvious:
http://www.burmester.de/english/reviews/stereo_0900_prod_2.html
The blue, black and red of similar type (don't know if it is the 1 pound type though) in use on Power-Amp 909 as seen in the test review.
/UrSv
http://www.burmester.de/english/reviews/stereo_0900_prod_2.html
The blue, black and red of similar type (don't know if it is the 1 pound type though) in use on Power-Amp 909 as seen in the test review.
/UrSv
I was thinking about the best speaker connections for a long time and came to one conclusion only: the best binding post is no post at all. The better ones are really fancy, very expensive, but let's face it, they are needed on consumer equipment because otherwise nobody would be able to connect amps with speakers. However when you make the connection, unless you are reviewer, how many times do you disconnect your equipment, I do it very rarely. And besides, you are in diy audio.
So what I propose here is to go really extreme and solder the output wires from the amp directly to speakers cables. I can garantee that this will be the best connection (unless you want to use crimping, but then, in case you want to disconnect you would have to cut your pricy cables ).
So how many of you want to be extreme? I might do it on my next amp (AlephX?).
So what I propose here is to go really extreme and solder the output wires from the amp directly to speakers cables. I can garantee that this will be the best connection (unless you want to use crimping, but then, in case you want to disconnect you would have to cut your pricy cables ).
So how many of you want to be extreme? I might do it on my next amp (AlephX?).
Peter Daniel said:So what I propose here is to go really extreme and solder the output wires from the amp directly to speakers cables
That is decidely the best posts. I often go half way with the wire soldered to the speaker and then connected to the amp at the posts. You can also just use the posts as a crimp spot -- run the wires out from the amp into the hole in the posts, put the speaker wire into the same hole and hold them together with the binding post nut... the cheapest posts are probably as good as the best when you do this.
dave
Every time I think of wire and mechanical connections I think of all the wires NOT in contact. Soldering a cheap post makes a lot of sense, everything woudl be conducting.
Not sure how you'd get anything out though
First time I put X10 modules in, I didn't use wire nuts, I soldered and heat shrank everything. When I left the apartment in a couple of years it took me forever to get them disconnected
Not sure how you'd get anything out though
First time I put X10 modules in, I didn't use wire nuts, I soldered and heat shrank everything. When I left the apartment in a couple of years it took me forever to get them disconnected
I must also add that Rustraht who makes these connectors also have "spadar" (don't have the english word, metal forks for the cable) which is obviously also huge. They are made for cables like a BIG finger.
BTW: I have trouble with BIG, LARGE and GREAT. In Swedish there is only one word for the three, just "STOR".
BTW: I have trouble with BIG, LARGE and GREAT. In Swedish there is only one word for the three, just "STOR".
Copper binding posts
Copper binding posts are not that common. Audioplan, a German hifi & speaker manufacturer, have used copper binding posts for several years and claim that they sound better.
It's quite difficult for DIYers to find pure copper binding posts since most connector companies don't use this material. There is a good reason - it's too soft. There are warnings all over my Audiplan Konstrast II about not overtightening the posts - they will simply snap off. This is the main reason most makers don't use pure copper - too many reliability and returns issues.
James
Copper binding posts are not that common. Audioplan, a German hifi & speaker manufacturer, have used copper binding posts for several years and claim that they sound better.
It's quite difficult for DIYers to find pure copper binding posts since most connector companies don't use this material. There is a good reason - it's too soft. There are warnings all over my Audiplan Konstrast II about not overtightening the posts - they will simply snap off. This is the main reason most makers don't use pure copper - too many reliability and returns issues.
James
Re: Copper binding posts
If left exposed to the air it also oxidizes. I have some nice blue pennies outside that are a nice example.
dave
nemestra said:It's quite difficult for DIYers to find pure copper binding posts since most connector companies don't use this material. There is a good reason - it's too soft.
If left exposed to the air it also oxidizes. I have some nice blue pennies outside that are a nice example.
dave
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