Kambule,
The HiVi B3s should work just fine, I would reduce throat a bit to match 30 cm square Sd.
Two layer foam will be strong, not sure if needed. Can always add if you do. Wallpaper won't really add strength unless it is thick and adhesive is strong.
The foam used to pack things in boxes is typically expanded polystyrene beads (little white balls) that are fused together into a shape with a mold. It is also used to make insulation panels, as I learned, from Bob Brines and Cal, and is called "bead board". The foam core boards that I use is a closed cell foam that is formed between two sheets of paper to give thickness and strength to the paper face. I think this foam is formed by a chemical process that generates gas bubbles to expand the polymer (rigid polyurethane) rather than beads fused together. Here is an example of the type of foam boards that I use: Elmer's White Foam Board | White Foam Core Board 20" x 30"
I picked up my foam core today and plan to start this weekend. My build will be a 24 inch, 3 deep, Vital Tc9, and wood front/back.
One thing that strikes me since stuffing is so important...why not use a Zip-it to pull out the stuffing if you have too much? Those things pull amazing hair balls out of a drain...
One thing that strikes me since stuffing is so important...why not use a Zip-it to pull out the stuffing if you have too much? Those things pull amazing hair balls out of a drain...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Recurve,
Good idea, we have discussed attaching string to the stuffing in a mesh bag to enable removal. A foam core back also allows surgery to cut small windows to adjust foam. I found that contact paper works as great temporary seal tape for foam core to allow stuffing test before final glue.
Good idea, we have discussed attaching string to the stuffing in a mesh bag to enable removal. A foam core back also allows surgery to cut small windows to adjust foam. I found that contact paper works as great temporary seal tape for foam core to allow stuffing test before final glue.
Carried over from my thread (Boat/full range) stupid me carrying on over there....XRK971/ Cal.......i've taken your advice and it of course, makes perfect sense
!!
Thank you both for your replies, but, here's the thing; without measuring i can't give specifics but let's just say i'm thinking 'saloon' is 6' H/10'W/maybe 8' long.
Can just about do 20" but, they'll be placed no more than 12" or so from hull sides/ maybe same from deck. The only saving grace is that the 'room' isn't square in any way, bar the flat bulkhead where they'll be placed.
So, maybe 14" baffle is the way forward with 2" driver??
I've got the pdf (blue/red traces) but can't remember whos it is, think it's the original layout? Comes out at circa 7" on a piece of A4. 1" square graph paper seemingly.
Some really cheap 3" driver folded horns just about go loud enough for me in there so, given the assumed better spl from this design i'm thinking it may not be too much of a loss at 'mini' size?
However, i don't want to have NO bass at all ! Catch 22 it seems.
!! Thank you both for your replies, but, here's the thing; without measuring i can't give specifics but let's just say i'm thinking 'saloon' is 6' H/10'W/maybe 8' long.
Can just about do 20" but, they'll be placed no more than 12" or so from hull sides/ maybe same from deck. The only saving grace is that the 'room' isn't square in any way, bar the flat bulkhead where they'll be placed.
So, maybe 14" baffle is the way forward with 2" driver??
I've got the pdf (blue/red traces) but can't remember whos it is, think it's the original layout? Comes out at circa 7" on a piece of A4. 1" square graph paper seemingly.
Some really cheap 3" driver folded horns just about go loud enough for me in there so, given the assumed better spl from this design i'm thinking it may not be too much of a loss at 'mini' size?
However, i don't want to have NO bass at all ! Catch 22 it seems.
Kimbo,
The size room you describe is probably too small for a 20 inch cornu. I have the 14 inchers in a room almost same size as your boat but with higher ceiling (9ft) and they sound great. I am using cheapo no name drivers, if you get the Vifa TC6FD 2.5 in driver, I think it will sound better. I get bass down to 100 Hz with the 2 in drivers, it is not hip hop deep by any means but what you do have is Very room filling, and works great for jazz and vocals, pop. There is a sound clip of the 14 inch cornus back in this thread (post #60).
The size room you describe is probably too small for a 20 inch cornu. I have the 14 inchers in a room almost same size as your boat but with higher ceiling (9ft) and they sound great. I am using cheapo no name drivers, if you get the Vifa TC6FD 2.5 in driver, I think it will sound better. I get bass down to 100 Hz with the 2 in drivers, it is not hip hop deep by any means but what you do have is Very room filling, and works great for jazz and vocals, pop. There is a sound clip of the 14 inch cornus back in this thread (post #60).
Last edited:
Just to clarify, this was essentially the same as the current cornru dimensions, just with the addition of the divider and the math to adjust accordingly? It is not double the depth, correct?
Only wish I had the 108, however, I do do have 3 pairs of the Pioneer A11 needing cabinets. One pair is in my favorite BIB's. They work so nice for a cheap driver.
Zayne,
The commercial Cornu uses the same plan as posted by Hersh and later redrawn by Planet10. The depth is 5.5 inches I think for both layers but there is a 0.4 in thick divider. So the actual flowpath height for each channel is 2.56 in deep. So it is like building two 27.5 in horns with a 2.56 in deep set of channels per side then capping with two facers. Of course the middle board has to have a big hole in it.
The commercial Cornu uses the same plan as posted by Hersh and later redrawn by Planet10. The depth is 5.5 inches I think for both layers but there is a 0.4 in thick divider. So the actual flowpath height for each channel is 2.56 in deep. So it is like building two 27.5 in horns with a 2.56 in deep set of channels per side then capping with two facers. Of course the middle board has to have a big hole in it.
I posted on another thead but this is where I should be. I have the W3-315e(tangbang) in a 24" cornu 4" thick(10.2C) and a throat of 1.6centimeters though in building it came out slightly bigger. Polyfill is new to me where is a good amount to start and how dense of a wad. For some reason posting pics is escaping me is there a certain procedure
Rock,
I have often considered the W3-315e - nice aluminum cone driver. You can start with just stuffing the driver chamber with a good amount (uncompressed fluffed state about 3x the volume of the chamber). It is easy to adjust to taste. If you think there is still too much coming through the horn mouths you can try adding a very small amount into the throats using a small wire tool to poke and prod it into place. Make sure you leave some of it exposed so that you can pull it out with a hook if it is too much.
Posting pictures sometimes requires using the right browser. I cannot do it in Chrome on an Android but Firefox works fine. The text editing on Firefox sucks so I end up using two browsers to achieve what any single browser in Windows can achieve. You need to go to "Advanced" and choose "Manage Attachments".
I have often considered the W3-315e - nice aluminum cone driver. You can start with just stuffing the driver chamber with a good amount (uncompressed fluffed state about 3x the volume of the chamber). It is easy to adjust to taste. If you think there is still too much coming through the horn mouths you can try adding a very small amount into the throats using a small wire tool to poke and prod it into place. Make sure you leave some of it exposed so that you can pull it out with a hook if it is too much.
Posting pictures sometimes requires using the right browser. I cannot do it in Chrome on an Android but Firefox works fine. The text editing on Firefox sucks so I end up using two browsers to achieve what any single browser in Windows can achieve. You need to go to "Advanced" and choose "Manage Attachments".
Hogwallies! The bigger the better! Don't listen to him Kimbo, his ears are probably in decent shape. Not like those of us who spend their time on the water listenin' to all that whistle blowin' and stuff.
Instead of hitting 'quick reply', use 'post reply' and then go down to 'manage attachments' as X has mentioned.
So true.
