Thanks sangram, you are most helpful as usual!
Before all this mess, I tried to get local audio repair shops to look at it but the most common response was that they don't do built in amps. They don't even understand the phrase "studio monitors"...
Or I could send the amp to an authorized event repair center, but they said they would charge $50 upfront for evaluation (of the cost of repair). Throw in round trip shipping and that's about $70 already...
OK! In any case I would replace the Ri's, and the 5532s if that doesn't work...
Before all this mess, I tried to get local audio repair shops to look at it but the most common response was that they don't do built in amps. They don't even understand the phrase "studio monitors"...
Or I could send the amp to an authorized event repair center, but they said they would charge $50 upfront for evaluation (of the cost of repair). Throw in round trip shipping and that's about $70 already...
OK! In any case I would replace the Ri's, and the 5532s if that doesn't work...
hello everybody!
zumazon, i've got pretty much the same problem!
( i own a pair of asp 8, and on one of them the HF trim doesn't work at all, and the Input Sensitivity affects the level much less than it should. also the HF driver sounds obviously louder than the one on the other monitor where all the controls work OK.. i mailed the tech support of Event, and was very wondered by the answer: i was adviced to buy a new tweeter!. maybe it's due to my [maybe] poor english, and i failed to describe the problem clear enough?, anyway even for me, being an absolute zero in electronics it's obvious that the driver emits what it gets on its inputs.. please correct me if i'm wrong..
so i wonder if you have your problem solved? please let me know how, if you have.. my situation is quite awful, i live in russia and even not in moscow, the warranty expired 2 years ago and i bet there's noone in my city to repair 'em...
zumazon, i've got pretty much the same problem!
( i own a pair of asp 8, and on one of them the HF trim doesn't work at all, and the Input Sensitivity affects the level much less than it should. also the HF driver sounds obviously louder than the one on the other monitor where all the controls work OK.. i mailed the tech support of Event, and was very wondered by the answer: i was adviced to buy a new tweeter!. maybe it's due to my [maybe] poor english, and i failed to describe the problem clear enough?, anyway even for me, being an absolute zero in electronics it's obvious that the driver emits what it gets on its inputs.. please correct me if i'm wrong..so i wonder if you have your problem solved? please let me know how, if you have.. my situation is quite awful, i live in russia and even not in moscow, the warranty expired 2 years ago and i bet there's noone in my city to repair 'em...
zumazon said:
No, it's linear because it's a gain knob - not volume. There is a difference.
Full gain all the time means that the fully CCW terminal on the gain pot is disconneted from Ground. If both tweet and woofer are at the same level, then this is the case. If one is louder than the other, then something else is wrong. Didn't pull up a pad or trace during the repair, did you?
Sorry for the late reply!
@mlekodukye
I haven't solved the problem yet... Did you get the reply from Mike? Currently I just use a mixer to match the bad with the good one. Of course, there is annoying noise from the bad one, but it is usable.
@EnvisionAudio
thanks for your answer wrt the gain knob, good to know. How can I trace it? I think as it is, both the tweeter and the woofer are at the same level - I used a mixer and compared them to the levels from the other good one.
@mlekodukye
I haven't solved the problem yet... Did you get the reply from Mike? Currently I just use a mixer to match the bad with the good one. Of course, there is annoying noise from the bad one, but it is usable.
@EnvisionAudio
thanks for your answer wrt the gain knob, good to know. How can I trace it? I think as it is, both the tweeter and the woofer are at the same level - I used a mixer and compared them to the levels from the other good one.
yeah, Zumazon, i've got the reply from Michael, please see above he adviced me to concider buying a new tweeter... but assuming that the amps are ok, how can the tweeter ignore the gain or reduction of high frequencies produced by HF Trim control? it seems quite against the physical laws to me... i bet Michael wasn't any deep into reading of my e-mail, he saw words 'tweeter' and 'doesn't work' out of context and hence his advice... the next mail he replied 'yeah it could be the amp' after i said him about my doubts...
but i'm really opened to hear a forcible argument that i'm wrong
he adviced me to concider buying a new tweeter... but assuming that the amps are ok, how can the tweeter ignore the gain or reduction of high frequencies produced by HF Trim control? it seems quite against the physical laws to me... i bet Michael wasn't any deep into reading of my e-mail, he saw words 'tweeter' and 'doesn't work' out of context and hence his advice... the next mail he replied 'yeah it could be the amp' after i said him about my doubts... but i'm really opened to hear a forcible argument that i'm wrong
Sorry to add another issue with these speakers, I would like to say this place really kicks **** and it's such a great group of people here, been following this thread for a while and was wondering if I can add to it ? As I have a amp issue as well, when I power down these speakers the bass speaker pops out and makes a big thud sound, they use to power off very quiet, seems like these monitors are very susceptible to power issues, I have the schematics to these finally but wanted to know if anyone else had this issue before and if and how they solved it. Appreciate any help, I am uploading a pdf as well if anyone is interested.
TIA
javascript:smilie('
')
TIA
javascript:smilie('
')Hi all this is my first post here , I have a pair of SP8's and have part of the issue as I read here with the SP6 , my woofer makes thumping noises like a heart beat as soon as I turn it on ( as described in the first post ) . Was there a fix ? and does anyone here know where I can find the Schematic ?
Thanks Mike...
Thanks Mike...
Sorry to add another issue with these speakers, I would like to say this place really kicks **** and it's such a great group of people here, been following this thread for a while and was wondering if I can add to it ? As I have a amp issue as well, when I power down these speakers the bass speaker pops out and makes a big thud sound, they use to power off very quiet, seems like these monitors are very susceptible to power issues, I have the schematics to these finally but wanted to know if anyone else had this issue before and if and how they solved it. Appreciate any help, I am uploading a pdf as well if anyone is interested.
TIA
javascript:smilie('
Hello!
I have one asp-8 with a similar problem (at power down woofer pops out and the trim pots are not working properly). On top of that this morning it seems that it has the "too loud distorted output" issue that other users experienced.
Jupser, can you post the schematics please?
If i can find anything useful i'll post the details here.
Many thanks,
Silviu.
Sp8 ski's
I have uploaded the schematics for the SP6-8 Power amps, these amps are not made well, after the last one blew I may have used them 3 times after, the forth time the second one blew, unbelievable that this company never got sued, well im sure someone here will figure out the week link. My props for anyone who can figure it out.
Best to all
I have uploaded the schematics for the SP6-8 Power amps, these amps are not made well, after the last one blew I may have used them 3 times after, the forth time the second one blew, unbelievable that this company never got sued, well im sure someone here will figure out the week link. My props for anyone who can figure it out.
Best to all
Attachments
Not familiar with these amps but) - looking at the schematic notice that for the low frequency end 3 amps are run in parallel, with a .22 resistor on each one for isolation. If any of the gains (determined by feed back resistors and capacitor) is off, there will be over heating and may be cause of motor boating problem mentioned earlier. Hopefully the service manual would have information for checking this. I would run a low level (around 1 volt out and differentially check the signal across the resistors to make sure all the gains are balanced. As a sidenote - in the LM3886 datasheets national recommends 0.1% resistors for the feed back loops when paralleling outputs. Good luck with these.Found the answer today. Check the feedback circuit - on each IC check the resistance between pins 3 & 9. It should be 330k ohms. If if gets higher, like checking a capacitor, the resister is open. The heartbeat is the feedback input (pin 9) floating around trying to find a stable condition - this causes the output (pin 3) thump. These are momentary DC levels, so be careful not to burn a coil.
New here. Have a pair of ASP8's. Bought them 20th April 2008. Waranty just ran out by 4 months ago. Bummer! One of them has a big thump noise when you switch it off and is seriously low on power compared to the other one. The limit led blinks at about half the volume of what the other one is capable of. You would of though something that costs this much would last a lifetime. Think i will consider selling them on after i get it repaired.
Hi, I have a pair of these ASP8s as well and have never had the thumping woofer problem. However, I have the same problem that a couple of others have mentioned with the amps, that the HF and LF trim don't do anything and the gain sensitivity trim doesn't do anything.... on both of the amps! I blew the tweeter on one of them, but the knobs on the back didn't work on either of them... and then the other tweeter blew as well.. I am considering replacing the tweeters, since I spent a lot of money on these speakers, and they did sound great when they worked, but I am very concerned that something is wrong with the amps and the tweeters might blow again very soon (they cost 125$ each tweeter)! As far as I understand, they are supposed to have overload protection circuits in the amps.. could a defect in this be causing the trim knobs not to work and make the tweeters prone to blow? It does seem odd that it was like this in both amps. The fuses are fine in both of them. Sending them out for repair/replacement seems prohibitively expensive and probably could just get a new pair of speakers for the cost. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts on this. Thank you!
I did some reverse engineering and installed a pair or Silenx 120mm fans on my ASP8's. The holes lined up perfectly and there's a thermal sensor that turns the fans on when the backplate reaches a certain temp. The fans are dead silent also so it doesnt disturb my mixing. Seems like they keep the backplate quite cool which in turn helps lower the inside speaker temps.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Dear,
Sad to hear those stories. My Uncle has a pair of event precision 8 in his studio. I wonder now where is the design failure. I would say putting those chips parallel without any DC servo isn't a safe thing, but then again more commercial manufactures do it without problems (Jeff rowland). So does anyone have any cluse why those capacitors crack and why the amplifiers burn?
Al I can think of is lack of 0.1% resistors in the feedbackloop and input, and not enough cooling.
For what it's worth it, Even now build high quality Discrete amplifiers in their Opal model designed by the QSC designer.
With kind regards,
Bas
Sad to hear those stories. My Uncle has a pair of event precision 8 in his studio. I wonder now where is the design failure. I would say putting those chips parallel without any DC servo isn't a safe thing, but then again more commercial manufactures do it without problems (Jeff rowland). So does anyone have any cluse why those capacitors crack and why the amplifiers burn?
Al I can think of is lack of 0.1% resistors in the feedbackloop and input, and not enough cooling.
For what it's worth it, Even now build high quality Discrete amplifiers in their Opal model designed by the QSC designer.
With kind regards,
Bas
ASP8 and ASP6 Repair 100% success
Hello guys, first post ever in a forum here, I have been repairing the ASP8 line of amps for a while, besides repairs i also upgrade them with an external heatsink and havent had any overheating issues since.I have seen some very bad amps (amateur repairs attempted and failed), I currently have seven of these puppies and 3 extra amps, it is always the SMD components that fail, we have had a couple of bad rectifier bridges and for sure the Pots, trims and that 6 way switch in the middle.
I don't get why some posters on this forum and others tend to say that it is extremely difficult to diagnose this circuit or maybe you need to know what you are doing plus all the parts.
Right now i am working on recaping one amp with Nichicon gold tune for decoupling (have to modify the ground) and Silmic II on the audio path and another amp with Nichicon GT and Nichicon Fine Gold on the audio path to make a side by side comparison.
I will report my findings as soon as i am done.
Hello guys, first post ever in a forum here, I have been repairing the ASP8 line of amps for a while, besides repairs i also upgrade them with an external heatsink and havent had any overheating issues since.I have seen some very bad amps (amateur repairs attempted and failed), I currently have seven of these puppies and 3 extra amps, it is always the SMD components that fail, we have had a couple of bad rectifier bridges and for sure the Pots, trims and that 6 way switch in the middle.
I don't get why some posters on this forum and others tend to say that it is extremely difficult to diagnose this circuit or maybe you need to know what you are doing plus all the parts.
Right now i am working on recaping one amp with Nichicon gold tune for decoupling (have to modify the ground) and Silmic II on the audio path and another amp with Nichicon GT and Nichicon Fine Gold on the audio path to make a side by side comparison.
I will report my findings as soon as i am done.
Hi UNUTAURO,
Any advice on troubleshooting these monitors? I have the crackling/hissing noise coming out of one of the tweeters and is getting worse, I don't want to end with a blown tweeter. I read on another forum this is a typical failure with the 2k SMD resistors on the input to the amplifier ICs, so I was just considering replacing them.
On a side note, what is the average cost of repairing these amps? My knowledge in electronics is very basic so I might just send them off for repair if you are available.
Any advice on troubleshooting these monitors? I have the crackling/hissing noise coming out of one of the tweeters and is getting worse, I don't want to end with a blown tweeter. I read on another forum this is a typical failure with the 2k SMD resistors on the input to the amplifier ICs, so I was just considering replacing them.
On a side note, what is the average cost of repairing these amps? My knowledge in electronics is very basic so I might just send them off for repair if you are available.
Benito, sorry for the delayed response, I'm not very forum active.
There is no one common chip to replace on these things when they start acting up, in our experience its a bunch of things that could be going bad, we've had components measuring 100% under spec only to fail after replacing other bad components so now a days we just replace all of them, we could take a look at your amps if you like, PM me if that's OK with the moderators, not very savvy with forum rules.
There is no one common chip to replace on these things when they start acting up, in our experience its a bunch of things that could be going bad, we've had components measuring 100% under spec only to fail after replacing other bad components so now a days we just replace all of them, we could take a look at your amps if you like, PM me if that's OK with the moderators, not very savvy with forum rules.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.