SMPS along with class D amplification are of great use
for whom had to deal with PA systems that are constantly
brought from one place to another but for home hifi purpose
they are useless and should be discarded , "linear" PSUs
are far more relevant in implementation easyness , safety
reliability and performances if designed and built with minimal
care using toroids , classical xformers are to be relegated
to museums given their huge losses when few power is extracted,
somewhere in the 20-40W range if not more with the most heavy ones.
for whom had to deal with PA systems that are constantly
brought from one place to another but for home hifi purpose
they are useless and should be discarded , "linear" PSUs
are far more relevant in implementation easyness , safety
reliability and performances if designed and built with minimal
care using toroids , classical xformers are to be relegated
to museums given their huge losses when few power is extracted,
somewhere in the 20-40W range if not more with the most heavy ones.
Hi
BC560 Vcbo is 50V and this is plenty for the exposure to 35V + signal excursions, though fault conditions may be another matter.
I would think, given that the previous P3 model survived somehow with BC559 at Vcbo of only 30-35V, that this will be fine.
60-80W Power Amplifier
http://sound.westhost.com/project03.htm
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These can fit on stereo board, back to back, using outer three holes. But, I would never use them because PSU cables will be bended too much and stressed at the entry. Also, faston connectors shall be soldered on two points, that's better electrical and mechanical connection.
Attachments
Ivan, can you please check the bottom of the board, if not already cut in two? (I can't check my spare until later today) The traces are, I think, common on the bottom, so if Rancho does not intend to separate the channels, only one 3-pos terminal blk and one set of wires is required, correct? I thought this was rather clever of RodE, frankly, but perhaps I remember wrong.
And if you cut the board like I did, then you can allow as much space for wire bend as you need.
Checked my board and the traces are joined across both sides of the board....
Very happy now as I can go to Jaycar later today and get a 3-pos terminal. Only drama now is the speaker out terminals - I don't think 2-pos screw terminals will fit in those positions. I may just solder them using PCB pins in the packet Rod sent me (although they are a loose fit in the holes...)
Very happy now as I can go to Jaycar later today and get a 3-pos terminal. Only drama now is the speaker out terminals - I don't think 2-pos screw terminals will fit in those positions. I may just solder them using PCB pins in the packet Rod sent me (although they are a loose fit in the holes...)
Do not use those pins for the speaker out. They may be able to carry a few amps in theory, but they were not really designed for that kind of duty, not over time...
Look at how thick the average speaker cable is, and the size of the contact area in a banana-type speaker terminal and plug. Then compare it to the size of that pin.
Not much besides a tab connector will fit there, you are too close to those large resistors. You can get a crimp style male connector from a hardware store, and use it with a short piece of the same wire you plan on connecting to the back of your chassis. So, you would still have a quick-disconnect. and later you can replace it with the right connector.
You would think so, but what we find in this country is thousands of sellers, retail and internet, selling just crimp terminals for automotive wiring and general use - nothing thru-hole to fit PCBs.
Fixed 0.25" spade terminals will usually be the bolt-on type. Only PCB manufacturing suppliers and one or two electronic kit suppliers offer solder types and these are rare indeed these days. Interestingly, hi-fi loudspeakers may may use impressive heavy cable but drivers and crossovers use only the tiny, 3.2 mm width fastons.
Buy Crimp Tab Terminals Connector,Faston Tabs,63mm,PCB tab,vertical TE Connectivity 62409-1 online from RS for next day delivery.
These are about the best value here, if the stock level is not just typical BS.
btw. take a look at the crimp tool price in the related products section below the product details.
Woooeeeee! about a grand US!
I think I'll settle for my $39 Taiwanese ratchet version.
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Thanks Ian, you have been most helpful. I placed an order with RS for the terminals you suggested. The ones I ordered from Farnell a couple of days ago were very similar. Unfortunately I got an order the next day to say they were on backorder until 8/7/13 even though they had thousands in stock when I placed the order. Go figure...
I use the "consumer" version crimp tool from a local hardware store for the wire connectors. Not as nice to use, and no ratchet adjustment, but for a few wires it works fine. They are usually sold in the home electrical section, or automotive wiring. Not nearly as cool looking as the professional tool for $1K tho...
I am really surprised. Serbia is a poor country and the town I live in is only 50 thousand inhabitants and yet there is electronic components store at 5 minutes walk from my home crammed with everything diy-er needs. There is even this same pcb faston in 90 degrees angled version! And there is also both 1 mm and 1,3 mm pcb pins both male and female.
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Do not use those pins for the speaker out. They may be able to carry a few amps in theory, but they were not really designed for that kind of duty, not over time...
Look at how thick the average speaker cable is, and the size of the contact area in a banana-type speaker terminal and plug. Then compare it to the size of that pin.
Not much besides a tab connector will fit there, you are too close to those large resistors. You can get a crimp style male connector from a hardware store, and use it with a short piece of the same wire you plan on connecting to the back of your chassis. So, you would still have a quick-disconnect. and later you can replace it with the right connector.
I think you are fine using those screw terminals. Maybe you should consider how thin the PCB track is compared to speaker cable and how thin the speaker coil's wire is compared to speaker cable.
Interesting... I live in a city with a population of 2M+ and there is no such store here AFAIK. The best we have is Jaycar however their range is limited. We used to have a very good electronics chain called Dick Smith Electronics however nowadays they were taken over by an even larger retail chain years ago and they now mostly cheap consumer audio/visual/computer rubbish.
Try here: RS Australia | World Leading Distributor of Electronics, Electromechanical and Industrial Components they deliver to your door in two days at most.
Yes, agreed, but I think the OP was talking about a 1-mm square pin (!).
The screw terminal does not fit on the footprint of the output connector. It only fits on the footprint of the power connectors... this is why not being able to post board pics is a PITA!
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Unfortunately that's the logic of consumerism: if it doesn't sell in huge quantities, we do not keep it! There is more and more of that each day, nobody cares for the peoples needs, they only care about how high the profit is. Good thing about shop in my hometown is that the owner and his wife are both EEs who care about their customers in spite of the fact that keeping these little cheap accessories is NO profit for them.
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