I am happy to share my new discovery. I recently purchased some Entré MC1 phono cartridges. Non of them were in woking condition but after opening them up and a little service they are singing wonderfully. I have to admit that I was not expecting such sound from these little gems.
They are way better than the Denon DL-103 family. I tend to listen more and more using this cartridge.
I am not saying that it over performs an Audio Note, Kondo, Kiseki or such cartridges but I am very-very impressed with their sound.
They are way better than the Denon DL-103 family. I tend to listen more and more using this cartridge.
I am not saying that it over performs an Audio Note, Kondo, Kiseki or such cartridges but I am very-very impressed with their sound.
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Excellent build.
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Excellent sound
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I hope you like the photos.
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Stylish look
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almost finished
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Finished and ready to play.
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Thanx for sharing the pix!
If someone wanted to buy a hollow boron tube with a small line contact laser or drilled thru and bonded with the plate only and no wire,, how much would this cost?
I,m considering trying it on an old Megasonics MC 10 cart that I would use as a base MC rebuild.
Don't know if I could do it, but would like to at least give it a go
Regards
David
If someone wanted to buy a hollow boron tube with a small line contact laser or drilled thru and bonded with the plate only and no wire,, how much would this cost?
I,m considering trying it on an old Megasonics MC 10 cart that I would use as a base MC rebuild.
Don't know if I could do it, but would like to at least give it a go
Regards
David
I'm happy you like the pics.
I am afraid I did not understand your question...
Regarding boron tube I am not sure if anybody is selling such cantilever. Boron is usually solid. I've seen a patent about making boron tube but it is very complicated so I am not sure if anybody would make that and how much would it cost.
Solid boron cantilevers are normally not drilled thru like aluminium ones but the stylus is glued to it.
What do you mean by plate only and no wire?
Best regards,
László
I am afraid I did not understand your question...
Regarding boron tube I am not sure if anybody is selling such cantilever. Boron is usually solid. I've seen a patent about making boron tube but it is very complicated so I am not sure if anybody would make that and how much would it cost.
Solid boron cantilevers are normally not drilled thru like aluminium ones but the stylus is glued to it.
What do you mean by plate only and no wire?
Best regards,
László
Thanx for sharing the pix!
If someone wanted to buy a hollow boron tube with a small line contact laser or drilled thru and bonded with the plate only and no wire,, how much would this cost?
I,m considering trying it on an old Megasonics MC 10 cart that I would use as a base MC rebuild.
Don't know if I could do it, but would like to at least give it a go
Regards
David
What kind of damping pads are there? And what compliances? What glues are used to bond everything?
Inquiring minds want to know
Sorry, but this is something that nobody would tell you.
Regarding glue, different services use different glue and I am sure that every manufacturer has his preferred glue.
I have a few MCs with hollow boron tubes, Audioquest 404i highoutput, and recently a Monster Cable Sigma 2000 with hollow boron tube and a coating of some kind overlayed.
Quite easy to see under my scope and reading the literature specs
The plate mentioned is where the wire is wound around.
I don't like the idea of gluing a diamond directly, and would prefer a press fit and glue. I have no evidence as to why I don't like a glued on needle or if it matters at all, but it seems with the forces transmitted, this should be as rigid as humanly possible.
I can appreciate those can rebuild them however any way they can without my nitpicking
Quite easy to see under my scope and reading the literature specs
The plate mentioned is where the wire is wound around.
I don't like the idea of gluing a diamond directly, and would prefer a press fit and glue. I have no evidence as to why I don't like a glued on needle or if it matters at all, but it seems with the forces transmitted, this should be as rigid as humanly possible.
I can appreciate those can rebuild them however any way they can without my nitpicking
OK, now I understood. You are talking about the coil former (plate) - cantilever assembly.
I tried to explain that boron tubes are not that common and I don't know where you could buy them.
Monster Cable | Cartridge Data | Vinyl Engine
Sorry, but I don't know where you could buy coil formers with glued-in cantilever.
Perhaps from cartridge manufacturers but I am not sure if they would sell you any.
Despite of this I encourage you to try and contact them.
I tried to explain that boron tubes are not that common and I don't know where you could buy them.
Monster Cable | Cartridge Data | Vinyl Engine
Sorry, but I don't know where you could buy coil formers with glued-in cantilever.
Perhaps from cartridge manufacturers but I am not sure if they would sell you any.
Despite of this I encourage you to try and contact them.
ENTRÉ MC1 SPECIFICATIONS
Here are some technical details about this wonderful cartridge:
Frequency Response: 10 Hz – 50.000 Hz
Output Voltage: 0,2 mV (3.54cm/s, 1000 Hz, 45 degree)
Channel Balance: within 1 db (1000 Hz)
Channel Separation: better than 28 db (1000 Hz)
Compliance: 10 x 10-6cm/dyne
Impedance: 3.0 Ohms
Tracking Force: 1.8 grams + 0.3 grams
Vertical Tracking: 20 Degree
Stylus: diamond Elliptical, with a radius of 0.3 mil x 0.8 mil
Mass: 5.8 grams
Mounting: ½” or 12.7 mm
Here are some technical details about this wonderful cartridge:
Frequency Response: 10 Hz – 50.000 Hz
Output Voltage: 0,2 mV (3.54cm/s, 1000 Hz, 45 degree)
Channel Balance: within 1 db (1000 Hz)
Channel Separation: better than 28 db (1000 Hz)
Compliance: 10 x 10-6cm/dyne
Impedance: 3.0 Ohms
Tracking Force: 1.8 grams + 0.3 grams
Vertical Tracking: 20 Degree
Stylus: diamond Elliptical, with a radius of 0.3 mil x 0.8 mil
Mass: 5.8 grams
Mounting: ½” or 12.7 mm
Was this a complete replacement of the entire canteliver + coils, or a rewind on the existing parts?
I seem to note finer wire and a greater number of turns in the final version? Probably that gives more output?
_-_-bear
No, this particular unit did not need recoiling. Actually the factory coils are not the nicest, I am making nicer ones but these were built many-many years ago.
All parts are original.
So what was broken?
This particular unit needed a good clean, resoldering the wires and alignment of the coil and suspension.
Can you explain what you did to align the cantilever? No matter what cartridge you look at, it seems the majority have either azimuth errors (difficult for many tonearm mfgs.) or more commonly, slightly skewed cantilever assembles (relative to the cartridge body) and easily compensated for by end user.
You must cut the "rubber" or silicone substance to do this and superglue right?
I say silicone only because I have had 20 year old MC,s that have not collapsed at all or shown anything you expect to occur under the sun.
You must cut the "rubber" or silicone substance to do this and superglue right?
I say silicone only because I have had 20 year old MC,s that have not collapsed at all or shown anything you expect to occur under the sun.
Which solder was used for resoldering of such a thin wire?This particular unit needed a good clean, resoldering the wires and alignment of the coil and suspension.
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