I drew up a rough driver shape to fit into the box. The main central brace had to be adjsuted by 18mm as I had drawn it wrong.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Righto, had a few changes to the design over the last few weeks. Mainly necessitated by changing space requirements in the new living room area.
I'll pop some pics of the new CAD design on tonight, but it is now going to be about 100 x 40 x 22cm (hxwxd) in size, with a slot port (2 x 36cm) across the front base just below the driver. The port will be tuned to somewhere between 20-24Hz depending on the final enclosure volume (trying to hit 90-95L internally) with the aim of having a -3dB point at 20hz, if possible.
If one works well then I'll make the second.
Amp wise still looking at using the Alesis RA500, for good value and it looks nice too.
I'll pop some pics of the new CAD design on tonight, but it is now going to be about 100 x 40 x 22cm (hxwxd) in size, with a slot port (2 x 36cm) across the front base just below the driver. The port will be tuned to somewhere between 20-24Hz depending on the final enclosure volume (trying to hit 90-95L internally) with the aim of having a -3dB point at 20hz, if possible.
If one works well then I'll make the second.
Amp wise still looking at using the Alesis RA500, for good value and it looks nice too.
Some pics as promised.
The input speakon will probably be on one side near the base towards the back. Not sure yet, as it's an aesthetics thing.
The sub will most likely sit on spikes (4) one in each corner-ish. The carpet in the flat is quite deep in places so this will help the sub(s) stay upright.
22mm MDF used throughout, due to cost, availability (ie have quite a bit already), finish likely to be undercoat white at the moment to blend a bit into the rooms alls (that are slowly going white). Also nice and easy to change the colour to suit the decor afterwards too.
The volume is approx 95L, taking into account the port, driver and bracing etc. The port is tuned to 20Hz, giving a theoretical -3dB point of 19Hz, port length is 50cm, 2cm 'high' and 36cm wide. Flared on both ends. All rounds are 19mm diameter.
The input speakon will probably be on one side near the base towards the back. Not sure yet, as it's an aesthetics thing.
The sub will most likely sit on spikes (4) one in each corner-ish. The carpet in the flat is quite deep in places so this will help the sub(s) stay upright.
22mm MDF used throughout, due to cost, availability (ie have quite a bit already), finish likely to be undercoat white at the moment to blend a bit into the rooms alls (that are slowly going white). Also nice and easy to change the colour to suit the decor afterwards too.
The volume is approx 95L, taking into account the port, driver and bracing etc. The port is tuned to 20Hz, giving a theoretical -3dB point of 19Hz, port length is 50cm, 2cm 'high' and 36cm wide. Flared on both ends. All rounds are 19mm diameter.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Extra pic with outer dimensions.
The subs are suitabley proportioned that, if needed, they could act as good surround speaker stands, for my Jamo THX D6SURR.
The subs are suitabley proportioned that, if needed, they could act as good surround speaker stands, for my Jamo THX D6SURR.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Those are some neat drawings, very nice. I was wondering how you calculated for your slot port with the substancial flares? Is there a rule of thumb that you use, or a formula?
Anyhow, it looks very attractive and should fit right in to your living room. Mine never do, but then, I guess poor taste is better than none at all
Best Regards,
TerryO
Anyhow, it looks very attractive and should fit right in to your living room. Mine never do, but then, I guess poor taste is better than none at all
Best Regards,
TerryO
I've used WinISD Pro for the port dimensions, primarily the length, as the width is determined by the enclosure width. The cross sectional area is equivilent to that of a 10cm diameter circular port, as used on the BK Monolith that the basic besign is based on. The port length I was given (50cm) measures from just inside flared parts at both ends.
buggsson said:
In this case, you need to consider whether the shelf brace between any other 2 braces (or a top or bottom & brace divides the subpanel into equal rectangles -- it shouldn't. The braces would be more effective if run up the height of the box, with the front-to-back one bracing the woofer to the box.
dave
Ofcourse Dave, you are absolutely right about the vertical bracing
But I would do both vertical and horisontal bracing, to have the best of all, MATRIX
Though matrix works better with closed, B&W speakers use it with their BR designs
Just make sure not to make it too "tight", but with large holes ... not sqared holes, that is as good as useless or may even make things worse
Also it should actually work better with bracing made of thin material, like say 12mm
The glue should be soft
Personally I route the panels to fit with the bracing, which then just slides into the box
Its made with a very little "loose" fit, just a tiny bit and not too loose ... I let the foamy polyurethane glue do the filling
I wont be completely dead, but without any ringing which a hard box would have
But I would do both vertical and horisontal bracing, to have the best of all, MATRIX
Though matrix works better with closed, B&W speakers use it with their BR designs
Just make sure not to make it too "tight", but with large holes ... not sqared holes, that is as good as useless or may even make things worse
Also it should actually work better with bracing made of thin material, like say 12mm
The glue should be soft
Personally I route the panels to fit with the bracing, which then just slides into the box
Its made with a very little "loose" fit, just a tiny bit and not too loose ... I let the foamy polyurethane glue do the filling
I wont be completely dead, but without any ringing which a hard box would have
Something like this?
The top brace cross is made of only 2 parts that interlock.
The top brace cross is made of only 2 parts that interlock.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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