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Donkey Kong Baffles

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fastbike1 you certainly seems not to be aware how OB work....

Fastbike: Don't take the criticism personally. Every diy project is met with skepticism by some. If these sounded like Donkey dung, I would have documented such. However, as many "rules" as these break, they sound magical to the five sets of audiophile ears that have now heard them.:D
 
Trust me, it doesn't bother me, particularly when the commenter "seems to not be aware" of the point of my comment. ;)

You have clearly understood the point. To often folks forget about the music. My personal thought is that if the speakers can't make you forget about "critical listening" and draw you into the music, they're not "working".


Fastbike: Don't take the criticism personally. Every diy project is met with skepticism by some. If these sounded like Donkey dung, I would have documented such. However, as many "rules" as these break, they sound magical to the five sets of audiophile ears that have now heard them.:D
 
Let's be constuctive... Fasbike, you can use the EDGE calculator to check the efects of offset-mounting drivers on baffles, and how lifting them off the floor affects the bass response.

I agree. Definitely run the numbers. EDGE is a useful tool.

And to Nicoch58: Since you indicated you are here to learn, which I intrepret as a solicitation for expanding your knowledge concerning all things open baffle, I will give the following advice:

What I have found "constructive", and the greatest way to learn about real life baffle acoustics, is by building test baffles. It's about the simplest diy audio project one can tackle. Since the room size, room acoustics and placement of the baffle within the room play a MAJOR role in the sonics of an open baffle, make a few of various sizes out of the cheapest sheet goods you can find.

Saw them in various different shapes, sizes and cut your holes, varying offset to test that too. You can even cut them in the center to start, then cover up the center hole and put one off center, covering the other with thin wood stock. Then, use cinder blocks, a chair, dumbells, small children, etc. to prop them up.

Try them in various places in your listening room. Then, another room in the house. Close to the back wall, far away, different listening positions, close together, close to the side walls, etc. This is good, constructive learning in addition to using Edge. I guarantee you'll have learned a lot about open baffles after doing this.
 
Let me try to be clear, one more time. I know about all of these tools. I understand OB design as well as other types. I understand the various effects, yet the OP produced a satisfying result.

The point that some still just can't see is that the OP was happy with the results of the design, AFTER LISTENING. Yet people who didn't hear the speakers had detailed opinions on why they didn't/wouldn't work.


Let's be constuctive... Fasbike, you can use the EDGE calculator to check the efects of offset-mounting drivers on baffles, and how lifting them off the floor affects the bass response.
 
Understand what? Will Urchinn be committing some unforgiveable sin by building this design? Will the world come to an end? What will happen to your position if Urchinn likes the results? Further, who really cares?

Why does it matter to you so much that someone built something that didn't follow the "rules"? But thanks, it's clear to me that you don't / won't see the other viewpoint. Enjoy your narrow perspective, it's safer.

fastbike1 understand now ??
 
Hiya Urchinn: Actually, the center portion is 36" square. Then, there is a 4" border/frame around the center section. 44" square total. The legs are not 18". I'm not at home currently, but I'll measure them tonight and post the exact length. My plywood distributor cut the 3' x 3' sections and I ripped the 4" frame stock from the same type of birch ply. I used biscuits and glue to join the outside border to the inside 3x3 baffle. This build took me one day from start to finish and was under $100.

So these are a 38" square, lifted 18" off the ground? Those legs look shorter than 18" to me. And there is no baffle correction of any kind? I am going to try to make these...but I just want the dimensions correct!
 
This is turning into a very interesting post. I love all the excellent thoughts, opinions, and off-the-cuff comments! Thanks, Cervelorider, for the specs. Don't forget to tell me how tall the feet are (from floor to bottom of "frame", I guess). Also, I recognize that logo of yours. Are you a fellow Uke fan?
 
This is turning into a very interesting post. I love all the excellent thoughts, opinions, and off-the-cuff comments! Thanks, Cervelorider, for the specs. Don't forget to tell me how tall the feet are (from floor to bottom of "frame", I guess). Also, I recognize that logo of yours. Are you a fellow Uke fan?

Sorry for the late reply. The feet are 8.5 inches from the ground to the bottom of the baffle.
 
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