I can't say, the only experience I have with them is replacing the 5534s in the analog output stage of my Rotel CD Player. They were a nice, well rounded improvement to what already sounded very good!
And all I did was a swap, I still have to change some decoupling caps and resistor values and the output caps to optimum values and material.
Then I can really praise them!
Try researching here, that's where I found the best choice for the 5534 replacement (OPA627)!
And all I did was a swap, I still have to change some decoupling caps and resistor values and the output caps to optimum values and material.
Then I can really praise them!
Try researching here, that's where I found the best choice for the 5534 replacement (OPA627)!
I believe TDA1541A is a very good DAC chip but depend on the circuit surround it. Some infos told that your NE5532 is a good opamp. Please look at this link : http://www.dself.dsl.pipex.com/ampins/webbop/opamp.htm
I am not a fan of opamp in the output stage circuit. I have tried the OPA604, OPA627BP, LM4562 and NE5534 but nothing of them reach my expectation to be the optimal output stage for the TDA1541A. Tube will be my first choice for that.
I've looked at your PCB. I think it is a good PCB indeed, but if I were you I will consider to replace the yellow decoupling caps of the TDA1541A and decoupling of opamp with the better one. MKP type is the better choice, IMO. I always think that the leakage current of the decoupling caps takes the responsibility of the DAC output and the MKT is not as good as MKP for this job.
Please consider this little tweak before you change your opamp chip to another one.
Good luck.
- ims -
I am not a fan of opamp in the output stage circuit. I have tried the OPA604, OPA627BP, LM4562 and NE5534 but nothing of them reach my expectation to be the optimal output stage for the TDA1541A. Tube will be my first choice for that.
I've looked at your PCB. I think it is a good PCB indeed, but if I were you I will consider to replace the yellow decoupling caps of the TDA1541A and decoupling of opamp with the better one. MKP type is the better choice, IMO. I always think that the leakage current of the decoupling caps takes the responsibility of the DAC output and the MKT is not as good as MKP for this job.
Please consider this little tweak before you change your opamp chip to another one.
Good luck.
- ims -
I agree 100%, "Don´t waste time with changing op-amps"
go for Burson Discrete Opamp
http://www.bursonaudio.com/Burson_HDAM_Module.htm
they's not a cheap, but after some months you forgot about money You spend, but still live with excellent sound !
Biggest size Low ESR PS capacitors must.
go for Burson Discrete Opamp
http://www.bursonaudio.com/Burson_HDAM_Module.htm
they's not a cheap, but after some months you forgot about money You spend, but still live with excellent sound !
Biggest size Low ESR PS capacitors must.
The OP is right, randomly swapping op-amps in and out of circuits without regard to the design parameters of either the op-amp or the circuit IS a waste of time. You're relying on luck to give you an "improvement". Fortunately for all of us, there are engineers in the world who were willing to do the long, hard work of getting an education so they would not have to rely on luck to make things work.
If you want improvement in your audio system, you may just as well pray for it as randomly swap op-amps. Both methods are about equally likely to improve your system.
I_F
If you want improvement in your audio system, you may just as well pray for it as randomly swap op-amps. Both methods are about equally likely to improve your system.
I_F
John007 said:
Yes.
100nJ100 is fine but choose the better caps for decoupling.
You can search for this matters and here some of them:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=30025&perpage=25&highlight=&pagenumber=1
and related to the op amp:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=25814&perpage=25&highlight=&pagenumber=1
- ims -
John007,
Can you post the schematic to your DAC unit?
Some here are quite capable of offering tweaks to (sometimes) many parts of the whole unit (PS, DAC, Analog Stage, etc.).
After and only after you replace all those caps around the DAC, look at the overall Analog stage. You might only need to tune the op amps you have with different decoupling caps, some resistor changes and look at how your muting circuit works.
With PS caps and decoupling caps both, they affect how much power you have stored for big passages of music. If they don't store enough power, Bass can seem weak, sloppy, etc. If they are too big, the highs are weak, out of phase or worse. So the right one is important. And then there is bypassing and that is another avenue.
The output cap can sometimes be adjusted for a different value and material and give surprising results.
Then there is the PS with caps and diodes and rectifiers. All the right ones can help! The cleaner the PS, the better the DAC and internal clock (timing) perform and that means better resolution.
Can you see now how many things can affect the performance. More than likely the op amp wouldn't be as bad as you say. It might be actually nice. It might just be everything is just a little under par and the sum is exponentially bad.
Watch out, this can turn into an addiction!
All this, I picked up here so trawl the threads! You might turn this into a hot DAC!
Do this methodically, it will prevent wastes of time and money and having to live in a bad mood! LOL
Good luck!
Regards//Keith
Can you post the schematic to your DAC unit?
Some here are quite capable of offering tweaks to (sometimes) many parts of the whole unit (PS, DAC, Analog Stage, etc.).
After and only after you replace all those caps around the DAC, look at the overall Analog stage. You might only need to tune the op amps you have with different decoupling caps, some resistor changes and look at how your muting circuit works.
With PS caps and decoupling caps both, they affect how much power you have stored for big passages of music. If they don't store enough power, Bass can seem weak, sloppy, etc. If they are too big, the highs are weak, out of phase or worse. So the right one is important. And then there is bypassing and that is another avenue.
The output cap can sometimes be adjusted for a different value and material and give surprising results.
Then there is the PS with caps and diodes and rectifiers. All the right ones can help! The cleaner the PS, the better the DAC and internal clock (timing) perform and that means better resolution.
Can you see now how many things can affect the performance. More than likely the op amp wouldn't be as bad as you say. It might be actually nice. It might just be everything is just a little under par and the sum is exponentially bad.
Watch out, this can turn into an addiction!
All this, I picked up here so trawl the threads! You might turn this into a hot DAC!
Do this methodically, it will prevent wastes of time and money and having to live in a bad mood! LOL
Good luck!
Regards//Keith
Maybe you should try to tweak opamps power supply.... Just a guess - if there are 470uF after the regulator, try to replace them with something bigger and better, as i think those green caps are Nichicon Muse, and they're not that good. Go for Rubycon ZL-Series or Panasonic FC/FM. I don't know if they are available that easy, here in Austria you'll get the Panasonic from RS-Components, and Rubycons from distrelec.
As it was said a thousand times here in the forum, the type of opamp is mostly not that important. What is important is the supporting circuit.
Guess what opamps are in high grade studio equipments? You'll be lucky if you find NE5532's. MC33078 and equivalent is the king there.
Even the Studer A723 used a lot of NE5532's ....
As it was said a thousand times here in the forum, the type of opamp is mostly not that important. What is important is the supporting circuit.
Guess what opamps are in high grade studio equipments? You'll be lucky if you find NE5532's. MC33078 and equivalent is the king there.
Even the Studer A723 used a lot of NE5532's ....
@John007:
I can't share your opinion!
Opamps aren't bad sounding constructions at all. Almost every CD-Player has some in output stage.
It depends on the whole circuit. It isn't comparable with tire change at your car.
I got a very well designed preamp from KR Audio (I think they come from Prague, too) which had OPA2134 from BB inside. The preamp (2.000 €) sounded good but not perfect (for my ears). After the replacement with LM4562 (the same like LME49720) the sound was better. More accurate and fuller. I have a full bass and clear highs which never are sharp or screaming.
Both OPamps has similiar technical data so they are good subsitutes.
OPA2604 isn't my favorite. In the circuits I have tested it, the sound was very laid back with less details and covered at all. 2134 is more "natural".
Just my 2 cents.
I can't share your opinion!
Opamps aren't bad sounding constructions at all. Almost every CD-Player has some in output stage.
It depends on the whole circuit. It isn't comparable with tire change at your car.
I got a very well designed preamp from KR Audio (I think they come from Prague, too) which had OPA2134 from BB inside. The preamp (2.000 €) sounded good but not perfect (for my ears). After the replacement with LM4562 (the same like LME49720) the sound was better. More accurate and fuller. I have a full bass and clear highs which never are sharp or screaming.
Both OPamps has similiar technical data so they are good subsitutes.
OPA2604 isn't my favorite. In the circuits I have tested it, the sound was very laid back with less details and covered at all. 2134 is more "natural".
Just my 2 cents.
Tolu said:
Pretty much my findings too, and I totally agree. Upgrading from the OPA2604 and 2132's in my Sony SCD-777ES sacd player to LM4562 along with some other rather significant component upgrades was as close to a revelation as anything I have heard.
The 4562 and its cousins do a good job of highlighting problems elsewhere. (passive components, circuit topology errors, and poor power supply performance.) Fix those issues and try the 4562 again would be my advice..
Of course YMMV
Congratulation John007,
You've got what are you looking for.
I just check the information from "Application Guide for WIMA Capacitors" http://www.wima.com/EN/applicguide.htm
and... there are no polypropylene suggested for decoupling/bypassing.
But I do like using MKP for TDA1541A decoupling and it sounds smoother and I got clean and tight bass compared to MKT. Using MKT/MKS will shift the sound to be lighter in my ears and I don't like it. I like the 'strong bass' like you too
But it's my opinion, you can try it by yourself.
Good luck.
- ims -
You've got what are you looking for.
I just check the information from "Application Guide for WIMA Capacitors" http://www.wima.com/EN/applicguide.htm
and... there are no polypropylene suggested for decoupling/bypassing.
But I do like using MKP for TDA1541A decoupling and it sounds smoother and I got clean and tight bass compared to MKT. Using MKT/MKS will shift the sound to be lighter in my ears and I don't like it. I like the 'strong bass' like you too
But it's my opinion, you can try it by yourself.
Good luck.
- ims -
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