diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide

[dewdrop]

For the use of CL-60, if I were to have 2 CL-60 wired within the primaries of the AN-6225, do I still need to have a 3rd CL-60 connected to the chassis and ground as what Papa Nelson recommends?

 

[6L6]

Have to? No.

It's it a good ground noise breaker? Yes.

 

[dewdrop]

Have to? No.

It's it a good ground noise breaker? Yes.

As always, thanks Jim! So exciting, the parts are finally arriving early next week. The F5T building will start.

 

[syracuze]

Further increasing capacitor values

1) No, that would actually make the filtering worse.
2) Leave empty. You won't need them. (well, maybe perhaps possibly if you have a horrible and nasty transformer, the input snubber, but the output snubber? Nope)
3) Where are you going to order parts from? I'll happily look and give a specific recommendation.

That said, the most important criteria are that they fit...

Electrolytic capacitor
snap-in
10mm lead spacing 2-pin (normal on 10mm, but make sure)
Max. 35mm diameter
No real limit to height
At least 15,000uF
At least 25V rated

More voltage rating will give longer life.
Also, generally speaking, a bigger can for a given capacitance will have more ripple rating, and, more life due to running it at a lower than maximum load.
105C rated caps will also give longer life since you'll be running them under that rating.

If I was to order tonight from Mouser, I'd get these -

SLP223M035H9P3 Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser

Thanks a lot 6L6 for all the build guides, they are incredibly helpful!
Quick question on capacitor choice, I am tempted to go for even higher capacitor ratings for my F5 build, I have seen this on Digikey, almost 3x higher capacitor rating compared to original specs.

380LX473M035A082 Cornell Dubilier Electronics (CDE) | Capacitors | DigiKey

Is there watch out that I need to be aware of?
I am planning the rest of the power supply as; CL60 thermistors as described in the datasheet, 400 VA transformer (2x18 V) and 2 monolithic bridges (GBPC3502)

 

[mbedwani]

Hi Guys, I'm building the F5T v2, I'm using a 1000VA 24v+24v transformer. I'm trying to source some PSU Caps, they seem to be sold out from most suppliers. I did fine these Rubycon USC series caps 22,000uF 50v, what are your thoughts?

50USC22000MEFCSN35X50 Rubycon | Capacitors | DigiKey

 

[Telstar]

Rubycon is a very good brand.

 

[angrypat]

with 18,000uf caps (647-LLS1H183MELC) in an f6 universal psu, will I be blowing fuses on start up w/o a soft start?

 

[angrypat]

Also I see 2000 and 3000 hour lifespan ratings, and some with no life span rating, should those w/o a life span rating be avoided?
I am trying to go for large 35mm dia x 45 mm or 50 mm hieght, worth the effort?
Most are 35 x 35.

 

[dewdrop]

with 18,000uf caps (647-LLS1H183MELC) in an f6 universal psu, will I be blowing fuses on start up w/o a soft start?

I use 18,000uF caps for F5T without issues.

 

[6L6]

You can't buy those caps... they are out of stock! Here's a good one with 1000+ in stock SLPX183M050H9P3 Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser

Really though, they or similar will work great.

Don't overthink the caps - 10mm snap-in, 35mm diameter, 15,000uF or bigger, 25V or higher.

 

[mbedwani]

I agree @6L6,

I ended up with these Nichicon 35v 22,000uF 105Deg for my F5T. 175 pcs left in stock.

LGU1V223MELC Nichicon | Mouser Australia

Mark.

 

[angrypat]

Thanks for the quick replies fellas, and especially the part number / link, that makes life much easier. I'm new to this, so looking up parts can be tedious, and sometimes confounding! Ordering those tonight, the price isn't bad either.

 

[kpsthakur]

with 18,000uf caps (647-LLS1H183MELC) in an f6 universal psu, will I be blowing fuses on start up w/o a soft start?

If your transformer is rated anything above 250-300VA, it sure will...try using CL60 thermistor in series with live...you will be all good

 

[angrypat]

Ordered rectifiers for psu, both Mouser and Digikey show FEP30dp-e3/45 as out of stock, after sniffing around I ordered these 625-FEP30CP-E3.The only difference I see is Vr-Reverse Voltage is down to 150v from 200v, hopefully still adequate. Enough for tonight, my eyes have glazed over.

 

[angrypat]

6L6, my Pop is / was an electrical engineer, mentioned on the phone what I ordered and he said "oh yeah, "double - ear" is a good outfit, that's what we always called them anyway". Got a chuckle out of that.

 

[danilom]

Few helps for Danilo (newbie)

Hello from Danilo (first post, newbie, Italy, Rome).
I've few questions... maybe someone want help me?

1) I would like to buy the Antek AS-4218 Transformer; how to get 18V from input AC =230V (and not 115V) ?? Is it sufficient following the 240V section of the attached schema?

2) I don't understand how to choose the capacity: In the web I can find both 10-15.000 uF and 33000 uF. How the output depends upon the capacity?


Thanks a LOT!!

Danilo

 

[migkiller1971]

Man, Went through all these post. I'm Building a sneaky Pete M2 Clone amp in a Denon enclosure. I've seen two different grounding schemes. First: has all grounds connecting to the star ground on the PSU board including ground from the transformer on the Chassis. Second: Two different grounding points. IEC Ground to Chassis and Star on PSU everything else. Any preferences? Also I have an Antek AS-3218 transformer so ground (Purple Wire) always goes to the Star PSU ground on either Configuration? Cheers

 

[6L6]

Purple goes directly to the chassis. Same place the safety earth from the wall attaches. Do not connect to audio ground.

Starground on the PSU works pretty well, but the PSU ground should be elevated off the chassis by a CL-60 or a couple big diodes. CL-60 is easiest.

Check your PM

 

[migkiller1971]

Purple goes directly to the chassis. Same place the safety earth from the wall attaches. Do not connect to audio ground.

Starground on the PSU works pretty well, but the PSU ground should be elevated off the chassis by a CL-60 or a couple big diodes. CL-60 is easiest.

Check your PM

Got it! Makes sense. Thanks! Just waiting on some bypass Caps for the full build. Dude, You are really close. Stonegate!





http://s22.photobucket.com/user/migkiller/media/20180406_093334.jpg.html

 

[Blk Dynamite]

Question regarding the resistors on the PSU Board. R5-R8; it looks like the flow goes from the bleeder resistor (R9), to the LED, the resistor to the LED to R8 down to R5. Due to space constraints I only want to use the space for R6 for an Inductor. Can I jumper R8 and R7 so the circuit completes to R6 where the inductor will take over?