Earl, about the clay that you use to smooth the interface between driver and waveguide - is there a particular kind that you have found stays in place reliably over time? My concern would be that a clay that dries would crack and bits could fall down, or a clay that stays soft could droop, and in either case you could end up with clay in the phase plug, on the diaphragm, or down in the gap.
Thanks,
Duke
Thanks,
Duke
I've found that normal "kids" clay works fine. It doesn't dry up and I have not seen it droop at all as yet. It is a very small amount and it is trapped in place. But we did have a concern for the pro systems where the drivers could get very hot. There we used silicone instead as it was heat proof, but harder to apply.
Hi Earl and others!
I read recently that you do not recommend bi-amping for your speakers. I also remember that you once said that the amps you are using with your Summa are not mega buck, ultra high end (etc…) but carefully selected devices.
Is it possible to know what kind of amps you are using in your set up or maybe what kind of amp do you recommend for the kit you are selling? A precise model might not be the most interesting answer as I am more looking for the criteria of your choice.
(I hope this is the right thread for this kind of questions…!)
Regards,
Etienne
I read recently that you do not recommend bi-amping for your speakers. I also remember that you once said that the amps you are using with your Summa are not mega buck, ultra high end (etc…) but carefully selected devices.
Is it possible to know what kind of amps you are using in your set up or maybe what kind of amp do you recommend for the kit you are selling? A precise model might not be the most interesting answer as I am more looking for the criteria of your choice.
(I hope this is the right thread for this kind of questions…!)
Regards,
Etienne
Etienne88 said:
I recommend a "good" amp. I use a Pioneer receiver. It has chip amps. These amps were measured with a spectrum analyzer down to the noise floor with no sign of any increase in harmonic order or level. This means that there is no crossover distortion and that they are very linear for very low level signals. MOST amps are not this good. This amp was the best of more than a dozen that I tested. Some were downright terrible at low signal levels - which is a disaster.
gedlee said:
It is nice having you making fun!
Thank you for the answer, I noticed afterward that I should have done my homework better... You speak about it in the Geddes about distortion measurements thread!
Another question: is it the same amp for your subs? I mean, do you use the remaining channels of the receiver for the subs?
Regards,
Etienne
The Nathan 10s are shipping now, still a little short of some small but key parts, mostly screws and terminals for the crossovers, but in another week I'll have parts enough for a lot of kits. I can fill Nathan 10 orders in a couple of weeks now. When I get clear of the backlog of Nathan orders I'll start on the Abbeys. I already have the molds so this should go fairly quickly.
In all honesty the Abbey will be the better system, of that I have no doubt, but it is bigger and more expensive. If you have the room and can afford them get the Abbeys, if not then the Nathans work quite well and you won't be disappointed.
I don't think anybody but myself has finished a set of kits as they just started to ship.
In all honesty the Abbey will be the better system, of that I have no doubt, but it is bigger and more expensive. If you have the room and can afford them get the Abbeys, if not then the Nathans work quite well and you won't be disappointed.
I don't think anybody but myself has finished a set of kits as they just started to ship.
Yes, you can buy the 15" waveguides, but I make no promises about if or when the Abbey+ will be available. The idea is to use the fiberglass waveguides for these, thats why I am having them done, but I have no idea how practical that will be until I try it. If it turns out to not work then I won't be doing it.
The Abbey+ would "probably" use the B&C 12TBX100 as this is a very good driver. But the 15" one is better so I might just jump up to that. All in all I haven't decided on anything beyond the Abbey and the next steps will all depend on how well the first two products go.
The Abbey+ would "probably" use the B&C 12TBX100 as this is a very good driver. But the 15" one is better so I might just jump up to that. All in all I haven't decided on anything beyond the Abbey and the next steps will all depend on how well the first two products go.
Hello Dr. Geddes
Firstly i want to thank you for all information that you are kindly sharing. I follow you threads very carefully. Im about to buy one of kit from you /for stereo/. I have just two add on questions.
I understand your point with multiple subs - but i dont know how is stereo channels distributed to particular subwoofers. Are they summed at first and then amplified as mono signal? Do you use your receiver for that? My first concern is stereo not HT. It is possible to use for example two pair of subs /two ULF and two WB/ and place them on each side as L and R channel /i know that this uniform pattern isnt very good for LF reproduction/? So what is your opinions and finding about this?
And second question
I believe in line level filtering and active amplification. I understand that in case of hi ef two way system as suma is there is no such a benefit as with for example 3 way boutique hifi system with 83db/w.
Also LF where is active advantage most obvious is active in your system too.
Are you experimented with this? Do you expect some benefits?
Its there possibility that you design line level filter for your kits?
I suppose that "reverse engineering" of passive filter to make line level filter will be very difficult if not impossible.
Thank you very much!
Tomas Vojtek
Firstly i want to thank you for all information that you are kindly sharing. I follow you threads very carefully. Im about to buy one of kit from you /for stereo/. I have just two add on questions.
I understand your point with multiple subs - but i dont know how is stereo channels distributed to particular subwoofers. Are they summed at first and then amplified as mono signal? Do you use your receiver for that? My first concern is stereo not HT. It is possible to use for example two pair of subs /two ULF and two WB/ and place them on each side as L and R channel /i know that this uniform pattern isnt very good for LF reproduction/? So what is your opinions and finding about this?
And second question
I believe in line level filtering and active amplification. I understand that in case of hi ef two way system as suma is there is no such a benefit as with for example 3 way boutique hifi system with 83db/w.
Also LF where is active advantage most obvious is active in your system too.
Are you experimented with this? Do you expect some benefits?
Its there possibility that you design line level filter for your kits?
I suppose that "reverse engineering" of passive filter to make line level filter will be very difficult if not impossible.
Thank you very much!
Tomas Vojtek
I just use the mono sub output from my receiver. But you can just derive a mono signal to LP to the subs with no problem.
I have used active filters for my sepeakers on several occasions, they were never very succesful. I have no plans to make an active filter set. I could supply a plot of the transfer functions, but youd be on your own to implimenting them and based on what I found with the active filters, they never work right and need to be "tweaked". So basically its a scratch design.
I have used active filters for my sepeakers on several occasions, they were never very succesful. I have no plans to make an active filter set. I could supply a plot of the transfer functions, but youd be on your own to implimenting them and based on what I found with the active filters, they never work right and need to be "tweaked". So basically its a scratch design.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.