i just found the greatest deal on monochrome lcds - $20 for a 7.5" 640 x 480, the only problem is it doesnt have a controller. the only controller i can find for this is the puma 2, which i have no clue as to how much it costs. it seems a little too fancy for my needs. anyone know of a cheap monochrome vga controller? or how to build one?
thanks
Jeff
thanks
Jeff
7" LCDs will require a very large box to align all the optics and LCDs themselves.
I know of a site where you can get an over head panel for $175. Same specs, but color. Probably has better inputs for upgrading too.
http://www.hammerheadtech.com/index.html
As for the monochrome LCD:
You might want to post your question here.
http://www.eio.com/lcdintro.htm
on LCD Hyper-Email Discussion Group
The Puma 2 is for OEMs only. I tried.
There are other options. You have to just check around.
Vince
[Edited by vdi_nenna on 09-19-2001 at 03:43 PM]
I know of a site where you can get an over head panel for $175. Same specs, but color. Probably has better inputs for upgrading too.
http://www.hammerheadtech.com/index.html
As for the monochrome LCD:
You might want to post your question here.
http://www.eio.com/lcdintro.htm
on LCD Hyper-Email Discussion Group
The Puma 2 is for OEMs only. I tried.
There are other options. You have to just check around.
Vince
[Edited by vdi_nenna on 09-19-2001 at 03:43 PM]
If there are no pictures for a while, how about some specifics on what parts you're using? we know quite a bit about the ultra brights, a little less about the lcd screen and next to nothing on the lenses you're using. I'm sure there are a lot of people reading this thread who are just waiting for enough information to safely begin their own endevours.
Ok.
LCD is actually a Sharp w/ 640x480 native resolution, but can go up to 800x600. Has S-Video, RGB inputs w/ 15 pin connector. It's 8.5" in diameter. $150
LEDs are 48 5600mcd ultra bright white. I may add more. $80
The first frensel is a 2x3" reading magnifier. $3
The second is an 8-1/2"x11" reading magnifier, which I may resize to slightly larger then the LCD screen. $8
The lense after the LCD is a 72.5mm convex/aspheric (semi-convex) made specifically for projectors. It's glass and very clear. $8
The projection lense is an US Optics either Delta 67 or 68, I'm not sure. It's made for rear projection TVs. I have 2 models. I'm using the 3" lense. 2 for $11.50
That's about it. I'm making the box, or remaking it I should say.
I've been a bit busy, and then this weekend I have to work 2-12 shifts. But after that, I'm not doing a thing on the weekend!!! Just building stuff!!!
Hope this helps some. Sorry if I got you guys too fired up.
This was suppose to be experimental.
Later,
Vince
LCD is actually a Sharp w/ 640x480 native resolution, but can go up to 800x600. Has S-Video, RGB inputs w/ 15 pin connector. It's 8.5" in diameter. $150
LEDs are 48 5600mcd ultra bright white. I may add more. $80
The first frensel is a 2x3" reading magnifier. $3
The second is an 8-1/2"x11" reading magnifier, which I may resize to slightly larger then the LCD screen. $8
The lense after the LCD is a 72.5mm convex/aspheric (semi-convex) made specifically for projectors. It's glass and very clear. $8
The projection lense is an US Optics either Delta 67 or 68, I'm not sure. It's made for rear projection TVs. I have 2 models. I'm using the 3" lense. 2 for $11.50
That's about it. I'm making the box, or remaking it I should say.
I've been a bit busy, and then this weekend I have to work 2-12 shifts. But after that, I'm not doing a thing on the weekend!!! Just building stuff!!!
Hope this helps some. Sorry if I got you guys too fired up.
This was suppose to be experimental.
Later,
Vince
cheap short life lights?
Since some of you would like to experiment cheap, I would suggest using low cost bulbs but use them at a slightly higher voltage than their design voltage. Bulbs become very bright and very white. Depending on the voltage they may last 15 hours or less than a second.
Since some of you would like to experiment cheap, I would suggest using low cost bulbs but use them at a slightly higher voltage than their design voltage. Bulbs become very bright and very white. Depending on the voltage they may last 15 hours or less than a second.
I have been following this thread and have since started ordering parts. I would like to what particular LCD panels and Controllers or Driver boards people are getting the best results from...Also, is everyone using the LED's? They seem a little much, compared to mirrors and reflected conventional lights..Thanks
Hi,
Using a conventional light source isn't a bad idea. Finding inexpensive halogen lamps is easy. Stocking up on them would be helpful since the ones readily available last about 40 hours. I have seen them as cheap as $3-$4 for a sealed lamp on surplus electronics web sites.
Just remember to us a UV filter after the lamp and a
cold mirror after the UV filter. The LCD will react badly to excessive heat. If you have been following along, you'll already know that it absorbs heat and passes on light. The mirror itself gets really hot, so be careful. Fan(s) must be used.
You already know what I'm using for this project, so I won't go into it again.
Anybody made any progress out there??
Vince
Using a conventional light source isn't a bad idea. Finding inexpensive halogen lamps is easy. Stocking up on them would be helpful since the ones readily available last about 40 hours. I have seen them as cheap as $3-$4 for a sealed lamp on surplus electronics web sites.
Just remember to us a UV filter after the lamp and a
cold mirror after the UV filter. The LCD will react badly to excessive heat. If you have been following along, you'll already know that it absorbs heat and passes on light. The mirror itself gets really hot, so be careful. Fan(s) must be used.
You already know what I'm using for this project, so I won't go into it again.
Anybody made any progress out there??
Vince
slide projector?
Hi,
well, i found my old slide projector...
Wouldn't it be great to use this beast, it has a way to adjust focus and the lense.
The lens assembly and focus adjustment is what i think one of the key elements in a projector and seems hard to DIY to me.
The light from the slide projector cannot be used because it's too hot, it has to be replaced by a LED cluster (no problem, can even use the 12V halogen power supply).
The problem with this approach is that i'd have to find a color LCD panel approximately the size of a slide. Production projectors typically use 0.8" to 1.3" panels and these would fit.
Now, does anyone know if these can be bought as replacement parts, with the matching input board?
Or any other source for small, hi-res panels?
The usual 5" panel available from Conrad has only 960x234 pixels. I think this is too little, and the board is too big.
Vince, IIRC you used exactly this resolution on your first proto. Was text (subtitles?, credits?) readable on it?
I'm watching alot of subtitled movies so this is a very important question to me.
Price is not soo important because my monitor broke and now i'm kinda desperate to get a projector.
Any ideas where to get <4", color, hi-res (640x480 and more), preferably with computer style input, are very much appreciated.
The "Crystaloid" 1.8" module looks interesting but has even worse res (528x220). The Kopin microdisplays are too expensive as Vince has already found out.
For me the next option is a normal 15" TFT screen, OHP lens + some box etc for focussing (this is the hard part i guess).
Third option: find used beamer with broken light source for next to nothing (yea right, and i need it soon!)
Best,
Timo
Hi,
well, i found my old slide projector...
Wouldn't it be great to use this beast, it has a way to adjust focus and the lense.
The lens assembly and focus adjustment is what i think one of the key elements in a projector and seems hard to DIY to me.
The light from the slide projector cannot be used because it's too hot, it has to be replaced by a LED cluster (no problem, can even use the 12V halogen power supply).
The problem with this approach is that i'd have to find a color LCD panel approximately the size of a slide. Production projectors typically use 0.8" to 1.3" panels and these would fit.
Now, does anyone know if these can be bought as replacement parts, with the matching input board?
Or any other source for small, hi-res panels?
The usual 5" panel available from Conrad has only 960x234 pixels. I think this is too little, and the board is too big.
Vince, IIRC you used exactly this resolution on your first proto. Was text (subtitles?, credits?) readable on it?
I'm watching alot of subtitled movies so this is a very important question to me.
Price is not soo important because my monitor broke and now i'm kinda desperate to get a projector.
Any ideas where to get <4", color, hi-res (640x480 and more), preferably with computer style input, are very much appreciated.
The "Crystaloid" 1.8" module looks interesting but has even worse res (528x220). The Kopin microdisplays are too expensive as Vince has already found out.
For me the next option is a normal 15" TFT screen, OHP lens + some box etc for focussing (this is the hard part i guess).
Third option: find used beamer with broken light source for next to nothing (yea right, and i need it soon!)
Best,
Timo
Nice to hear from you guys!
I can't remember if the tiltles looked bad. There was a screen door effect however.
I worked for 8 hours today to finish my projector. I'll be done tomorrow.)
The best deal I caould find in a hi rez screen was what you suggested- video panel.
I'll post good or bad tomorrow!
Later!
Vince
I can't remember if the tiltles looked bad. There was a screen door effect however.
I worked for 8 hours today to finish my projector. I'll be done tomorrow.
)The best deal I caould find in a hi rez screen was what you suggested- video panel.
I'll post good or bad tomorrow!
Later!
Vince
Sharp 8.4" color LCD
Yes, the guts are a Sharp 8.4" color LCD. The driver board is huge! It's in an "L" shape, like half a frame. I'm going to have to leave the driver board outside the box; later to figure out how to contain it.
So far, I mounted the LCD holder. Next I'm going to make a holder for the aspheric lense.
I'm making this box modular, so I can move components from slot to slot.
Unfortunatley, my ISP is no longer in the website buisness. The web people, homestead.com, are not providing free web space (I'm not paying for it). It end Nov. 1st.
So getting pictures out will be difficult, if they don't let me post.
But, I signed up for Yahoo Geocities, but there is nothing there yet. I can FTP files up to my new site, but it will be a mess.
More later.
Vince
[Edited by vdi_nenna on 10-07-2001 at 09:39 AM]
Yes, the guts are a Sharp 8.4" color LCD. The driver board is huge! It's in an "L" shape, like half a frame. I'm going to have to leave the driver board outside the box; later to figure out how to contain it.
So far, I mounted the LCD holder. Next I'm going to make a holder for the aspheric lense.
I'm making this box modular, so I can move components from slot to slot.
Unfortunatley, my ISP is no longer in the website buisness. The web people, homestead.com, are not providing free web space (I'm not paying for it). It end Nov. 1st.
So getting pictures out will be difficult, if they don't let me post.
But, I signed up for Yahoo Geocities, but there is nothing there yet. I can FTP files up to my new site, but it will be a mess.
More later.
Vince
[Edited by vdi_nenna on 10-07-2001 at 09:39 AM]
Failed!
It didn't work. I couldn't get it to project correctly for some reason. It was dim too. The new setup didn't work out like I'd hoped.
The LEDs seem bright enough when the LCD panel isn't in-line with the optics.
I'm very disappointed right now. But, I'm not going to give up just yet. I'm going to get some more info on optics and see if I can do this w/ calculations, instead of experimenting w/ trial and error.
Sorry.
Vince
It didn't work. I couldn't get it to project correctly for some reason. It was dim too. The new setup didn't work out like I'd hoped.
The LEDs seem bright enough when the LCD panel isn't in-line with the optics.
I'm very disappointed right now. But, I'm not going to give up just yet. I'm going to get some more info on optics and see if I can do this w/ calculations, instead of experimenting w/ trial and error.
Sorry.
Vince
Hi,
sorry that it didn't work out Vince.
I'll buy a used projector now in the 500$ price range. That's 640x480. I have a choice between one with 8" TFT and 400W halogen light, and 3" TFT and gas light with 700 hours on it. The latter model has better contrast too, 200:1 vs. 100:1 for the halogen model.
The halogen projector is cheaper and would be easier to convert to LEDs (it's bigger and has a useable power supply).
What do you think? Is the better contrast (b/w) worth paying almost double?
I found some info on LEDs vs. Halogen lights, and how to convert the brightness ratings:
http://www.caves.org.uk/led/
This might explain why the light in your projector was too dim, compared to a halogen light. Somewhere in the text it says that you need approximately the same wattage with LEDs as with normal bulbs. (each LED: 70mW) I don't think that's true however. LEDs seem to be more efficient after all.
Still, reality rears it's ugly head. We might need more LEDs than we want to pay for.
Best,
Timo
sorry that it didn't work out Vince.
I'll buy a used projector now in the 500$ price range. That's 640x480. I have a choice between one with 8" TFT and 400W halogen light, and 3" TFT and gas light with 700 hours on it. The latter model has better contrast too, 200:1 vs. 100:1 for the halogen model.
The halogen projector is cheaper and would be easier to convert to LEDs (it's bigger and has a useable power supply).
What do you think? Is the better contrast (b/w) worth paying almost double?
I found some info on LEDs vs. Halogen lights, and how to convert the brightness ratings:
http://www.caves.org.uk/led/
This might explain why the light in your projector was too dim, compared to a halogen light. Somewhere in the text it says that you need approximately the same wattage with LEDs as with normal bulbs. (each LED: 70mW) I don't think that's true however. LEDs seem to be more efficient after all.
Still, reality rears it's ugly head. We might need more LEDs than we want to pay for.
Best,
Timo
Led's won't work I am sorry!
Hello I have been reading this thread since some of the first, I have not posted however becuase I could not get it to work before. I have always thought about making my own video projector and when I read this I was very interested. I worked out the cost in Australian $$$ and it would be much to expensive, I rembered that my school had a Sharp Video Projection panel so I enquired and they sold it dirt cheap. It is a top of the range Sharp brand with every feature possible including a remote contol with a mouse that allows you to plug the panel into a computer so you can do wireless video presenations. LED's will not work Vince, I have my projector running with a 250watt halogen globe and I use it in a room that is nearly pitch black and in dark scenes it is still laking brightness, the instruction manuel recomends 575watts but that is for fairl bright room, I just use mine in a room with the cuirtains closed. I am sorry to disapoint you but LED's are just much to weak. If someone can program a PIC controler that can produce an on off signal able to drive an electromagnet, it would need to oprate at the rate a television does, both horizontal and vertical I then have the answer to all our problems, using technology from 1929 with moder technology and we have a high quality video projector able to work with LED's.
Paul
Hello I have been reading this thread since some of the first, I have not posted however becuase I could not get it to work before. I have always thought about making my own video projector and when I read this I was very interested. I worked out the cost in Australian $$$ and it would be much to expensive, I rembered that my school had a Sharp Video Projection panel so I enquired and they sold it dirt cheap. It is a top of the range Sharp brand with every feature possible including a remote contol with a mouse that allows you to plug the panel into a computer so you can do wireless video presenations. LED's will not work Vince, I have my projector running with a 250watt halogen globe and I use it in a room that is nearly pitch black and in dark scenes it is still laking brightness, the instruction manuel recomends 575watts but that is for fairl bright room, I just use mine in a room with the cuirtains closed. I am sorry to disapoint you but LED's are just much to weak. If someone can program a PIC controler that can produce an on off signal able to drive an electromagnet, it would need to oprate at the rate a television does, both horizontal and vertical I then have the answer to all our problems, using technology from 1929 with moder technology and we have a high quality video projector able to work with LED's.
Paul
may be u can get some info from this people.??
http://dutch.phys.strath.ac.uk/David_Cairns/about.htm
http://dutch.phys.strath.ac.uk/David_Cairns/about.htm
Fiat1, I don't complete doubt what you're saying. It look pretty grim last night. But, you might want to take a look at Faidzir's link.
I'm doing something wrong, and I don't know what it is. The light is very white and bright. I'm just not applying it properly. This link myght have some good insight.
Switching to halogan is no big problem either. It's just a few more parts. I'd rather not have he heat, but if I have to, I'll use it.
Vince
I'm doing something wrong, and I don't know what it is. The light is very white and bright. I'm just not applying it properly. This link myght have some good insight.
Switching to halogan is no big problem either. It's just a few more parts. I'd rather not have he heat, but if I have to, I'll use it.
Vince
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