Okay I made a "3d" design for my furniture setup since I have nothing much else to do for my project so check it out if intrested.. Remember to click it after the page fully loaded to see what's inside. When looking at just tells me to get some old shelf and put the stuff in 
LCD Image properties
Hello all, I was wondering if any one has seen this?
The effect is that when I have the contrast turned up all the way (which is very good) I can get an even sharper projected image by tilting the display (top back) by about 20 degrees. The problem then arises of the keystone effect. I also lose some of the brightness in the projected image, But the image does improve a great deal.
BTW Myren. The tin foil is best put to use as a reflector in the back of the LOA housing, I just taped a section of foil to the existing white reflector, it made a marked improvement in the brightness of the image. I do think in the end it will take atleast two LOA lights and a good mirror to get the amount of light needed.
LOA light
One problem I originally had with the LOA light was hot spots on the tube when the contrast was turned up. This can be overcome by placing a mask
of opaque scotch tape directly to the glass on the light side of the LCD panel. Place the tape only in the areas of the hotspots (vertical or horizontal) lines of the fluorex tube. I also tried to place a frosted glass between the Light and the screen, but that appeared to dim the whole image.
Web site updated again more pics shortly
<a href="http://bstv.timlewellyn.com/" target="_blank">bstv.timlewellyn.com/</a>
Hello all, I was wondering if any one has seen this?
The effect is that when I have the contrast turned up all the way (which is very good) I can get an even sharper projected image by tilting the display (top back) by about 20 degrees. The problem then arises of the keystone effect. I also lose some of the brightness in the projected image, But the image does improve a great deal.
BTW Myren. The tin foil is best put to use as a reflector in the back of the LOA housing, I just taped a section of foil to the existing white reflector, it made a marked improvement in the brightness of the image. I do think in the end it will take atleast two LOA lights and a good mirror to get the amount of light needed.
LOA light
One problem I originally had with the LOA light was hot spots on the tube when the contrast was turned up. This can be overcome by placing a mask
of opaque scotch tape directly to the glass on the light side of the LCD panel. Place the tape only in the areas of the hotspots (vertical or horizontal) lines of the fluorex tube. I also tried to place a frosted glass between the Light and the screen, but that appeared to dim the whole image.
Web site updated again more pics shortly
<a href="http://bstv.timlewellyn.com/" target="_blank">bstv.timlewellyn.com/</a>
Table
I am building a coffee table to house my video projector, keeps it out of the way and looks liek you don't have a video projector, will have to be a little bit higher then a normal coffee table. Good work everyone, everything is coming along well, now everyone is building something after so much working out! I am going to stop using my OHP and make my coffee table projector as well as using the fresnel lens. Someone posted about some OHP for like $130 use, why not buy that and use the fresnel lens and rip the other lens out and use them, although it would have to be long becuase of the lens distance requirments from the LCD.
I am building a coffee table to house my video projector, keeps it out of the way and looks liek you don't have a video projector, will have to be a little bit higher then a normal coffee table. Good work everyone, everything is coming along well, now everyone is building something after so much working out! I am going to stop using my OHP and make my coffee table projector as well as using the fresnel lens. Someone posted about some OHP for like $130 use, why not buy that and use the fresnel lens and rip the other lens out and use them, although it would have to be long becuase of the lens distance requirments from the LCD.
Hey guys.. theres a good Lcd Projection Panel on Ebay ..
http://cgi.ebay.ca/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1693740419
I'll be getting my test shots with a similar Projection Panel up soon.. probably a week.. and I'll try and put some plans up on a website..
I've been lucky in that my grandfather gave me one of those nice screens with that funny glass bits.. kinda sandy.. but it helped even my old 100 inch tv design work nicer..
Best Regards
Darryl
http://cgi.ebay.ca/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1693740419
I'll be getting my test shots with a similar Projection Panel up soon.. probably a week.. and I'll try and put some plans up on a website..
I've been lucky in that my grandfather gave me one of those nice screens with that funny glass bits.. kinda sandy.. but it helped even my old 100 inch tv design work nicer..
Best Regards
Darryl
I guess it could be smaller, if that's what you mean. Anyhow somesort of glass needs to be there instead of wood/metal that the projected stuff from the ohp head can reach it's destination.
How on earth are you going to make your projector look like a giraffe or elephant?!
Uh.. I don't know what sphinx or off-axis projection means. Well if I understood correclty, you want to place your projector at the floor and aim it quite much upwards to the screen and the image will look weird
Since I don't know too much about anything, I can't really help you. Expensive OHPs have keystone correction but I have no idea how it works or not ever even actually seen one with it. I don't know how are you going to accomplish it with the software either. I have hard time imaging "Keystone corrector v4.7". Is the keystone correction anything same than the trapezoid and other tweaks in monitor settings?Fiat, coffee table is good
But you probably can't place anything between the coffee table and the projection screen.?One more thing to say.. It so much pisses me off when every now and then writing some stuff and then accidently press escape and the stuff I wrote just vanishes. But this up to microsoft so **** them.
This thing doesn't allow me to edit my post anymore so...
anyway Lokos, I forgot to ask: Isn't your image going to be quite small if the projector is near the screen? At least to the wall (presented in my pictures) the projector (ohp tested so far) has to be almost at the other end of the room to fill the whole wall.
anyway Lokos, I forgot to ask: Isn't your image going to be quite small if the projector is near the screen? At least to the wall (presented in my pictures) the projector (ohp tested so far) has to be almost at the other end of the room to fill the whole wall.
Bitch,
Hard to believe, but I can do a cool 80" x 45" from about 4 feet (based on some sloppy experimentation) with the $15 Fujinon lens from Surplushed. The problem is the projector is going to block the viewers view; that is why I am trying to figure out how to keep the projector on the floor and shoot the image without blocking the viewers. Yes, I am planning to warp the image in real time and project it.
On your projector, I thought you would make the projector lens sit on top of box, like some sort of gozilla with one eye.
Hard to believe, but I can do a cool 80" x 45" from about 4 feet (based on some sloppy experimentation) with the $15 Fujinon lens from Surplushed. The problem is the projector is going to block the viewers view; that is why I am trying to figure out how to keep the projector on the floor and shoot the image without blocking the viewers. Yes, I am planning to warp the image in real time and project it.
On your projector, I thought you would make the projector lens sit on top of box, like some sort of gozilla with one eye.
questions and ideas...
Hi again.
I'll buy a mini LCD TV from streethawkers to start
building of my prototype. It is cheaper and faster
method to buy such equipment rather than buying
from electronics component distributors such as
Farnell in my country. But I am not sure about
will it be useful for me. I may be impossible to
use LCD of TV after removing if they connected
it to the PCB by flat ribbon cables with special
connectors or in worst case, if they used carbon
strips like in the cellular phone and clock displays.
Anyway, I'll try...
I'd some experiments with a negative photograph
film and I get 80" sharp but with poor brightness
and contrast image in ten minutes with
a stupid lamb and with one of the my photo-camera's
lenses. I think it will be better if I could
find very small but high resolution (at least
720x550 pixels) LCD displays. Then, we don't need
fresnel lenses and we can easily focus the image
by using photo-camera lens's built in adjustment.
Epson Seiko develops such HTPS LCDs (high temperature
poly silicon) for projectors but I don't hope
I can buy in less volumes. -only one... ;-)
I really wonder about contrast of the image when
we use standart LCDs. I wish to see some photos
from your prototype's screen if available.
I'm worry about gaining good contrast will be
much more harder than gaining brightness.
Beause of the diffraction from edges of LCD's
pixels and "if dark pixels have some transparency".
Please let me know about this....
As I read in this forum, some people trying to
use ultra bright white LEDs instead of lambs.
What about the experimental results? How many
LEDs did you use and how was the lum. in mcd?
Hi again.
I'll buy a mini LCD TV from streethawkers to start
building of my prototype. It is cheaper and faster
method to buy such equipment rather than buying
from electronics component distributors such as
Farnell in my country. But I am not sure about
will it be useful for me. I may be impossible to
use LCD of TV after removing if they connected
it to the PCB by flat ribbon cables with special
connectors or in worst case, if they used carbon
strips like in the cellular phone and clock displays.
Anyway, I'll try...
I'd some experiments with a negative photograph
film and I get 80" sharp but with poor brightness
and contrast image in ten minutes with
a stupid lamb and with one of the my photo-camera's
lenses. I think it will be better if I could
find very small but high resolution (at least
720x550 pixels) LCD displays. Then, we don't need
fresnel lenses and we can easily focus the image
by using photo-camera lens's built in adjustment.
Epson Seiko develops such HTPS LCDs (high temperature
poly silicon) for projectors but I don't hope
I can buy in less volumes. -only one... ;-)
I really wonder about contrast of the image when
we use standart LCDs. I wish to see some photos
from your prototype's screen if available.
I'm worry about gaining good contrast will be
much more harder than gaining brightness.
Beause of the diffraction from edges of LCD's
pixels and "if dark pixels have some transparency".
Please let me know about this....
As I read in this forum, some people trying to
use ultra bright white LEDs instead of lambs.
What about the experimental results? How many
LEDs did you use and how was the lum. in mcd?
Don't use negatives, use a slide image. A negative it too dark.
Contrast is always an issue, just look for the best ratio.
The LEDs are a questionable solution. I don't think it's their time just yet. But, I see it happening in the near future. They are made stronger every year.
If you are going to experiment, use the least expensive components first, then you can think about ways to improve on it.
Like taking base meaurements. Get the optic right first, even if it is dim or pixelated.
Vince
Contrast is always an issue, just look for the best ratio.
The LEDs are a questionable solution. I don't think it's their time just yet. But, I see it happening in the near future. They are made stronger every year.
If you are going to experiment, use the least expensive components first, then you can think about ways to improve on it.
Like taking base meaurements. Get the optic right first, even if it is dim or pixelated.
Vince
Hey everybody. Good job on getting the websites together. It's good to know that this thing can be done! A couple of quick questions:
1) What type of lens or lenses are used on the arm of an overhead projector? I know some use one lens and a mirror...is the lens a convex-convex? Does anyone have specifications on one? I'm having a tough time with optics these days. I think the lens assemly I had in mind for this project would project a large image close to the screen (appropriate for a rear projection TV or something similar).
2) Has anyone heard of the 0.7" LCD's that were available from BGmicro.com a few years ago? I think they were used for "virtual reality" type glasses. I think they had 180,000 pixels. That's not too ad considering its size! I'm having a tough time finding small LCDs with a resolution higher than the roughly 320x234 (or 960x234, depending on how you count the RGB pixels) for a resonable price.
I'm thinking about focusing on the OHP panel type LCD because of the resolution/cost issue. If I do this, I would like to figure out a way to do:
LOA---->LCD panel---->OHP lens w/o mirror
Ideally, I would like to find a lens that would not need such a long distance from the image to the lens, since I won't need to write on it like an OHP. I just need to figure out the numbers and math to calculate it.
Good luck everyone!
-f4
1) What type of lens or lenses are used on the arm of an overhead projector? I know some use one lens and a mirror...is the lens a convex-convex? Does anyone have specifications on one? I'm having a tough time with optics these days. I think the lens assemly I had in mind for this project would project a large image close to the screen (appropriate for a rear projection TV or something similar).
2) Has anyone heard of the 0.7" LCD's that were available from BGmicro.com a few years ago? I think they were used for "virtual reality" type glasses. I think they had 180,000 pixels. That's not too ad considering its size! I'm having a tough time finding small LCDs with a resolution higher than the roughly 320x234 (or 960x234, depending on how you count the RGB pixels) for a resonable price.
I'm thinking about focusing on the OHP panel type LCD because of the resolution/cost issue. If I do this, I would like to figure out a way to do:
LOA---->LCD panel---->OHP lens w/o mirror
Ideally, I would like to find a lens that would not need such a long distance from the image to the lens, since I won't need to write on it like an OHP. I just need to figure out the numbers and math to calculate it.
Good luck everyone!
-f4
High Res LCDs...
Hello everybody,
I have followed this thread for a few days and fing it higly encouraging.
I want a home theater myself and cannot afford a commercial projector.
I actually found a high-res lcd (WXGA), less than an inch in diameter...
Unfortunately, I think that it is not available quite yet to the public:
"The compact size of the LightCaster WXGA display panel simplifies the rear-projection, opto-electronic systems in an HDTV and encourages systems with better image color, resolution, and clarity. The current 1280x768 device features a 0.78-inch diagonal active area with a 90% aperture ratio. The microdisplay's small form factor makes it simple to integrate into consumer products. Size, however, is not the only reason LightCaster is an exceptionally flexible imaging component. LightCaster's all-digital design simplifies the electronics required to drive the display, resulting in more durable and more reliable products. Further, the low drive voltages needed for FLCs conform to standard CMOS voltages (3.3V and 5.0V), making the microdisplays simple to drive, low power and low heat."
Get more info at http://www.displaytech.com/products/projection/index.html
I hope that everything will be available soon.
Cooltalkingfrog.
Hello everybody,
I have followed this thread for a few days and fing it higly encouraging.
I want a home theater myself and cannot afford a commercial projector.
I actually found a high-res lcd (WXGA), less than an inch in diameter...
Unfortunately, I think that it is not available quite yet to the public:
"The compact size of the LightCaster WXGA display panel simplifies the rear-projection, opto-electronic systems in an HDTV and encourages systems with better image color, resolution, and clarity. The current 1280x768 device features a 0.78-inch diagonal active area with a 90% aperture ratio. The microdisplay's small form factor makes it simple to integrate into consumer products. Size, however, is not the only reason LightCaster is an exceptionally flexible imaging component. LightCaster's all-digital design simplifies the electronics required to drive the display, resulting in more durable and more reliable products. Further, the low drive voltages needed for FLCs conform to standard CMOS voltages (3.3V and 5.0V), making the microdisplays simple to drive, low power and low heat."
Get more info at http://www.displaytech.com/products/projection/index.html
I hope that everything will be available soon.
Cooltalkingfrog.
Wow, cooltalkingfrog, that's a nice LCD. Too bad it probably costs a fortune, if it can even be bought individually, and I'm not sure how much it would take to get it working with a video signal. If someone would make an LCD with the same specs, an S-video input, and a $100 price tag, I would be in good shape! Oh well, I'll probably have to wait a few years for that one. Let us know if you find anything else about it (distibutor, price, etc.).
By the way, in my previous post, I asked about the OHP lens setup. I realized later that it is the fresnel after the light and before the panel that would focus the light/image to the projection lens. Does anyone know the optical specifications of a typical page magnifier/fresnel that is available at Office Depot? Thanks.
-f4
By the way, in my previous post, I asked about the OHP lens setup. I realized later that it is the fresnel after the light and before the panel that would focus the light/image to the projection lens. Does anyone know the optical specifications of a typical page magnifier/fresnel that is available at Office Depot? Thanks.
-f4
Like the additude vince but you are probably right.
Anyway, I started to build the "real thing" today, the furniture. I'm making it out of wood, and the stuff came more expensive than I expected cause the guy sold me some expensive **** as I was supposed to buy cheap stuff. My budget was like $30-40 but the stuff actually costed $100. Life is hell ain't it. Anyway now that the thing is somewhat in one piece one problem is that the LCD doesn't fit there with the video cable attached to it. It requires weirdly lot of space but it seems to be standard printer cable connector so I'll probably solve the problem by getting printer extension cable which doesn't require so much space.
Initial tests are satisfying although either the ohp head is too high up (it has the adjusting thing in it as well but still) or the LCD is too low. When I lift the LCD up a bit with my hands the image comes grreat. The distance of the thing from the wall changes the need of the space between the ohp lens and LCD but I coudln't get it proper even when I moved the thing more away from the wall (it actually went worse, urgh).
Anyway this isn't a problem right now but the cooling is.
This is greatly important for me so please assist if you can!
I bought three 20x20cm flects(coolers if that doesn't mean anything).
This is what I was thinking. In number 1 in the picture I don't know would it be better that the cooler which is pushing air in to the box is in the same level with the other ones or in the bottom of the box. Or would it be better just have two coolers, other one pulling in and other pushing out (number 2 in picture) or same thing but two coolers pulling out (number 3).
I really don't know anything about cooling but this is what I was thinking but please help me because once the things are in they can't be moved anymore and the box is screwed.
If you have any better ideas please tell me.
Thanks.
but you are probably right.Anyway, I started to build the "real thing" today, the furniture. I'm making it out of wood, and the stuff came more expensive than I expected cause the guy sold me some expensive **** as I was supposed to buy cheap stuff. My budget was like $30-40 but the stuff actually costed $100. Life is hell ain't it. Anyway now that the thing is somewhat in one piece one problem is that the LCD doesn't fit there with the video cable attached to it. It requires weirdly lot of space but it seems to be standard printer cable connector so I'll probably solve the problem by getting printer extension cable which doesn't require so much space.
Initial tests are satisfying although either the ohp head is too high up (it has the adjusting thing in it as well but still) or the LCD is too low. When I lift the LCD up a bit with my hands the image comes grreat. The distance of the thing from the wall changes the need of the space between the ohp lens and LCD but I coudln't get it proper even when I moved the thing more away from the wall (it actually went worse, urgh).
Anyway this isn't a problem right now but the cooling is.
This is greatly important for me so please assist if you can!
I bought three 20x20cm flects(coolers if that doesn't mean anything).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is what I was thinking. In number 1 in the picture I don't know would it be better that the cooler which is pushing air in to the box is in the same level with the other ones or in the bottom of the box. Or would it be better just have two coolers, other one pulling in and other pushing out (number 2 in picture) or same thing but two coolers pulling out (number 3).
I really don't know anything about cooling but this is what I was thinking but please help me because once the things are in they can't be moved anymore and the box is screwed.
If you have any better ideas please tell me.
Thanks.
Hi all
Just thought i would share with you my exciting results. I have obtained a very watchable and decent quality 5ft by 3ft image on my wall. All for the bargain price of £45/$70. I bought a 5000 lumens overhead projector on ebay for £26. It didnt have a description so i took a gamble which paid off. I then got a proxima ovation 810 ohp lcd panel for £17.80 ebay too. The panel was so cheap because the bottom 25% of the screen doesn't work but as dvds are widescreen it doesn't matter what so ever. The image is great as it is and there are still things I can do to improve the image. I'm projecting it onto a dull beige wall so I might try and buy a cheap screen. I could really do with cleaning the insides of the lcd panel and the ohp aswell. I'v also used my TV card but at uni I have crap TV reception which totally screws up the image, it will be cool when i use it at home where I have a large white wall, great tv reception and can move the ohp further back for a larger image. I think the route to go with this project is to get an OHP and a LCD panel. You can then take them apart and use another light source and build them into a box if you want to.
Andy
Just thought i would share with you my exciting results. I have obtained a very watchable and decent quality 5ft by 3ft image on my wall. All for the bargain price of £45/$70. I bought a 5000 lumens overhead projector on ebay for £26. It didnt have a description so i took a gamble which paid off. I then got a proxima ovation 810 ohp lcd panel for £17.80 ebay too. The panel was so cheap because the bottom 25% of the screen doesn't work but as dvds are widescreen it doesn't matter what so ever. The image is great as it is and there are still things I can do to improve the image. I'm projecting it onto a dull beige wall so I might try and buy a cheap screen. I could really do with cleaning the insides of the lcd panel and the ohp aswell. I'v also used my TV card but at uni I have crap TV reception which totally screws up the image, it will be cool when i use it at home where I have a large white wall, great tv reception and can move the ohp further back for a larger image. I think the route to go with this project is to get an OHP and a LCD panel. You can then take them apart and use another light source and build them into a box if you want to.
Andy
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