heya chase, this isnt a parabolic reflector, its an eliptical so it will work with a condenser, i tried it out with a condenser and a frensel and it works fine, though i did get blind from it lol.
Ya very true, and this one had a hole too small too, u have to cut it out for the cdm-t to fit as i did in this one.
Trev
mathias said:
here
http://donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/enh_ansi.html
"ENH ANSI bulb specifications:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
category: Projector
volts: 120
amp/watt: 2.08A / 250W
base: GY5.3 - Oval, 2-pin; flat .7mm x 2mm; 5.3mm centered
(found on high voltage MR bulbs)
glass: MR-16
filament: CC-8
m.o.l.: 1-3/4 inches
burn pos: burn lamp in Base DOWN to HORIZONTAL position
lumens: 15000 initial lumens
color temp: 3250 degrees Kelvin
notes:
Beam Angle: 25 degrees
Dichroic Reflector
Enlarger Lamp
fd:5.6
Multi-Facet Reflector
mod
Photoflood
Photoprinter Lamp
Rim mount
Reflector Multi-Facet
Tungsten Halogen "
When it comes to the lumen output from a halogen bulb it´s true that you can get the same as a HID-lamp, but not with the same wattage. Halogen bulbs give max 37lm/W and HID 80-100lm/W. The halogen bulbs they use in slideprojectors and oh-projectors are not real halogen bulbs, they use a mix of xenon-gas instead of krypton, this give more lumens but less lifttime.
Here are some exemples of same wattage bulbs:
250W 24V xenon-halogen 50h 10000lm
250W 24V xenon-halogen 300h 8000lm
250W 24V halogen 2000h 5000lm
As I have said before the filament in a halogen bulb is smaller than the arc in a hid-bulb, this makes it much harder to control the light from a hid lamp, you need a bigger reflector with a hid-lamp than a halogen-lamp if you want use all light from the bulb. You can infact compare the halogen (12V-36V) filament size with a uhp-lamp arc size, they have about the same size and if you then compare the reflector size you find that they also are the same. This is why I recommend the PAR30 reflector it´s made to handel 10mm arc-sizes.
Here are some exemples of same wattage bulbs:
250W 24V xenon-halogen 50h 10000lm
250W 24V xenon-halogen 300h 8000lm
250W 24V halogen 2000h 5000lm
As I have said before the filament in a halogen bulb is smaller than the arc in a hid-bulb, this makes it much harder to control the light from a hid lamp, you need a bigger reflector with a hid-lamp than a halogen-lamp if you want use all light from the bulb. You can infact compare the halogen (12V-36V) filament size with a uhp-lamp arc size, they have about the same size and if you then compare the reflector size you find that they also are the same. This is why I recommend the PAR30 reflector it´s made to handel 10mm arc-sizes.
Hm.....maybe because you change a MH-bulb to another MH-bulb, if I was you I had put back the lamp-modul in the projector and tried to start it. Are you sure the reflector is eliptical, it looks very parabolic to me, you can get the same collecting effect to a focuspoint with a parabolic-reflector.
When it comes to do the same on a UHP-lamp modul, I can only say one thing, forget it. The reflector in a UHP-lamp is really small mine is 37mm (1.45") wide and 37mm (1.45") high and the cdm-t lamp is 20mm (0.78"), not so very much left of the reflector after you have cut a 21mm hole in it.
mathias said:
Yes there are diff halogens. Example. Standard halo flood light 100watt is around 1400 lumens 4k hour bulb, no special coated reflector. Now like you said diff gasses BUT more importantly the ENH uses Tungsten filiment. Which can be very small and run very hot meaning small reflector (under 2") with higher lumen per watt output. Tungsten and xenon halo's arent house lights also as you said. They (PJ bulbs) burn out faster, this one in 150hours (vs 4k from standard) due to more heat from higher output. The pj bulbs reflectors remove IR/UV they are actually a FS dichrotic cold mirror. MUCH better then hot mirror for removing heat from visible light. I dont know why ALOT here think heat mirrors are the answer. Heat mirrors not only dont remove as much heat from light, most only doing a 25% diff to pro ones doing upwards 60% but they loose more of the visible spectrum due to passing through mirror coating. Better to reflect needed light and avoid absorbtion. Most ALL pro projectors use cold mirro arrays to handle heat in small enclosures. It "can" depending on grade of mirror reflect on avg. 90% visible and remove upwards 85% heat per mirror! They incidently do get "hot" but were named cold mirrors for their ability to remove MORE heat then HOT mirros do. And cause they reflect cooler visible light more efficient. Hot mirrors are toys for laser guro's primarily. Sorry long post. LOL.
Good read for the diff in bulb types.....
http://www.pti-nj.com/obb_lamps.html
"Tungsten Lamps
Technical lamps consist of a coiled tungsten filament mounted in a precision glass envelope. The envelope may have a vacuum or, more commonly, be filled with an inert gas such as argon or krypton. Typical technical lamp operating parameters are 2.5 to 12 volts and .02 to 1 amp. Color temperature ranges from 2,200 to 3,000 degrees Kelvin; lamp life may be as high as 30,000 hours.
Tungsten-Halogen lamps feature a tungsten coil filament mounted in a quartz glass envelope that has been filled with an inert gas plus a trace of halogen (normally bromine). This gas creates the “halogen cycle”: tungsten that has evaporated from the filament combines with the halogen gas. Convection currents within the bulb carry this gas to the quartz wall where it is cooled and then returned to the proximity of the filament. The heat of the filament causes the tungsten and bromine to separate, and the tungsten is then deposited on the cold portion of the filament.
This regenerative process prolongs the life of the filament considerably, and also eliminates blackening of the bulb by preventing the evaporated tungsten from condensing on the envelope. The Halogen lamp color temperature runs from 2900 to 3400 deg. Kelvin and are available in wattages from 10 to 250 at operating voltages from 6 to 24; lamp life ranges from 10 to 2500 hours. Luminous efficiency is approximately 22 lumens per watt.
Tungsten-Halogen lamps must be operated at voltages that maintain an envelope temperature between 250 and 350 deg. C. Cooler temperatures will not allow the halogen cycle to take place, thus causing bulb blackening and shorter life; higher temperatures will cause oxidation of the conductors and lead to premature lamp failure."
So Tungsten is similar to Xenon output per watt just aimed at lower watt range. Makes sense. Cept Halo doesnt emit UV and need that filtering. Xenon more color correct but be carefull with it. The guys link I posted earlier that listed enh spec was dead wrong. Which I can agree with I couldnt believe it myself. thats what my 175watt mh gives! Anyhow even though lower lumen its controled heat removed and focusable. So overall what gets to screen TONS brighter. The light engine is lots smaller too. So...at 22lumen per watt. Enh is 5,500 lumens. By reg. tungsten watt rating that is. Sorry for any confusion. I hate specs that are WRONG.
Hmmm you might want to run up a few tests for yourself on the cold mirror, i have some here thats far more efective then any dichoric reflector ive owned, and thats testing with a pro reflector as i posted a couple of posts ago. A dichoric reflector will only cool the light that it reflects, thus being not all so a large quantity of heat still comes from the light source, now if you run all of your light onto a cold mirror and reflect the visible light to the lcd, all of the light from the source is filterd and yealds a much cooler light.
How to run a cold mirror cold? well dont have a metal backing plate on the back of it as sujested by manny leading manufactures, so the heat doesnt build up on the metal plate at the back of the mirror, redirect it to a metal plate 2inches behind it and the mirror will just get warm, the metal plate will only get hot which u can easily cool with a fan or convection.
Trev
How to run a cold mirror cold? well dont have a metal backing plate on the back of it as sujested by manny leading manufactures, so the heat doesnt build up on the metal plate at the back of the mirror, redirect it to a metal plate 2inches behind it and the mirror will just get warm, the metal plate will only get hot which u can easily cool with a fan or convection.
Trev
led spot
http://www.lightshop24.de/Datenblatt LED-PAR38-G.htm
what did u think this one?
http://www.lightshop24.de/Datenblatt LED-PAR38-G.htm
what did u think this one?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
"Hmmm you might want to run up a few tests for yourself on the cold mirror, i have some here thats far more efective then any dichoric reflector ive owned, and thats testing with a pro reflector as i posted a couple of posts ago. "
I agree cold mirrors are best. I already have 5 here to test with. One is in now and planning on staying there. hehe. But what you mean by they are better then dichrotic mirros I dont understand. They are a dichrotic mirror. So are hot mirrors. And many other types of special mirrors. Dichrotic just means its multiple layers of diff metal on glass in such a way that it filters and reflects. If you look into it or through it you see the multi colors of reflector from different fine metal layers that are imposed staticly to the glass. Dichrotic simply mean-multi colored. The ENH has a cold mirror reflector now. But I also have it aimed at another 4 3/4" one.
"How to run a cold mirror cold? well dont have a metal backing plate on the back of it as sujested by manny leading manufactures, so the heat doesnt build up on the metal plate at the back of the mirror, redirect it to a metal plate 2inches behind it and the mirror will just get warm, the metal plate will only get hot which u can easily cool with a fan or convection."
Were thinking the same! My pj is doing just that. No backing to cold mirror. Just a 50cfm (HOLLY COW!) fan behind bulb drawing out. I have cool air intake flow directed so it must pass cold mirror first and the hot backside at that. Should work. Yes? I will know tonight, Im THAT close to done. I'll be happy with a bright 5-6' image. From there its on to rear pj with same light engine.
I agree cold mirrors are best. I already have 5 here to test with. One is in now and planning on staying there. hehe.
But what you mean by they are better then dichrotic mirros I dont understand. They are a dichrotic mirror. So are hot mirrors. And many other types of special mirrors. Dichrotic just means its multiple layers of diff metal on glass in such a way that it filters and reflects. If you look into it or through it you see the multi colors of reflector from different fine metal layers that are imposed staticly to the glass. Dichrotic simply mean-multi colored. The ENH has a cold mirror reflector now. But I also have it aimed at another 4 3/4" one."How to run a cold mirror cold? well dont have a metal backing plate on the back of it as sujested by manny leading manufactures, so the heat doesnt build up on the metal plate at the back of the mirror, redirect it to a metal plate 2inches behind it and the mirror will just get warm, the metal plate will only get hot which u can easily cool with a fan or convection."
Were thinking the same! My pj is doing just that. No backing to cold mirror. Just a 50cfm (HOLLY COW!) fan behind bulb drawing out. I have cool air intake flow directed so it must pass cold mirror first and the hot backside at that. Should work. Yes? I will know tonight, Im THAT close to done. I'll be happy with a bright 5-6' image. From there its on to rear pj with same light engine.
Hmmm was like a kind of figure of speech
lol well what i meant to say is that a cold mirror can more efficently cool the light from a source at 45deg as all of the light from the source (reflected and non reflected light) is filterd by the mirror, compared to just having a dichoris reflector that wikll only filter just the reflected light bouncing from the reflector.All your setup sounds good bud, to give you a helpful idea, why dont you rivet a heatsink on the metal plate thats taking the heat from the back of the cold mirror? this will help keep things cool
.Trev
As no one is looking into the other thread, I post it here again:
Controller for UXGA resolution:
Datasheet
Manual
But that won't help me because I'm searching for a WUXGA-controller for the mighty 16:10 display...
As I found out, the only chipset capable of this resolution is the new gm1601 from Genesis Microchip Inc. and I'm sure as hell, that this is the controller used in the Dell notebooks as Dell mentioned Genesis as their primary provider on this stuff. But there are no freaking controllers with this chipset on the market. I already mailed Dr. Berghaus aka Kontron but I didn't get any reply by now.
Those Kontron guys are already using chips by Genesis in their existing controllers and I hope they will introduce a new one with the gm1601 soon!
Optional TV-controller:
Datasheet
You can find this stuff here:
http://www.dr-berghaus.de/frame_start.html
Controller for UXGA resolution:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Datasheet
Manual
But that won't help me because I'm searching for a WUXGA-controller for the mighty 16:10 display...
As I found out, the only chipset capable of this resolution is the new gm1601 from Genesis Microchip Inc. and I'm sure as hell, that this is the controller used in the Dell notebooks as Dell mentioned Genesis as their primary provider on this stuff. But there are no freaking controllers with this chipset on the market. I already mailed Dr. Berghaus aka Kontron but I didn't get any reply by now.
Those Kontron guys are already using chips by Genesis in their existing controllers and I hope they will introduce a new one with the gm1601 soon!
Optional TV-controller:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Datasheet
You can find this stuff here:
http://www.dr-berghaus.de/frame_start.html
Hi!
I haven't been reading the posts on this site for a long time cause my own project has been on hold after the last freakishly hot, kind of yellowish (and relatively dim compared all the problems it produced) 250W halogen blew up after its lame 300h lifetime. Well, I'm getting 150W HQI TS/NDL HID bulb and ballast from a friend (should be here monday), and decided to come here and read a bit.
And what do I see, still a lot of stuff about the paraller light beams and point sources...
Um.... I've tested this with many kinds of screens that are illuminated (and also with tv) that if you put a projection lense in front of any kind of illuminated or bright surface, it will be projected. The brighter the image, the brighter the projection.
Would someone care to explane why does the light before the LCD have to be in any kind of specially directed beams or point source, I somehow dont seem to get it? Maybe I am stupid. Isn't it all the same what kind of light it is before the lcd if the LCD gets lit up as brightly and evenly as possible?
With the halogen I did lots of experiments with reflectors and lamp positioning, and although I got a bit brighter image with reflectors it wasnt a huge difference, and also the position of the lamp and the reflector didnt seem matter much, if the lamp was in a position that most of its light got to direction of the lcd's and optics the image appeared and was ok :B Of course it could be that the optics in the projector which I am retrofitting fixed the light or something, but I dont think so as the original lamp had such a specially designed reflector.
These are just some of my thoughts, comment and answer if you like but I do understand that as I am just retrofitting the projector it might differ from those projects where you build a projector from a scratch, so these thoughts might not have anything to do with those.... I dunno....
Regards
HB
I haven't been reading the posts on this site for a long time cause my own project has been on hold after the last freakishly hot, kind of yellowish (and relatively dim compared all the problems it produced) 250W halogen blew up after its lame 300h lifetime. Well, I'm getting 150W HQI TS/NDL HID bulb and ballast from a friend (should be here monday), and decided to come here and read a bit.
And what do I see, still a lot of stuff about the paraller light beams and point sources...
Um.... I've tested this with many kinds of screens that are illuminated (and also with tv) that if you put a projection lense in front of any kind of illuminated or bright surface, it will be projected. The brighter the image, the brighter the projection.
Would someone care to explane why does the light before the LCD have to be in any kind of specially directed beams or point source, I somehow dont seem to get it? Maybe I am stupid. Isn't it all the same what kind of light it is before the lcd if the LCD gets lit up as brightly and evenly as possible?
With the halogen I did lots of experiments with reflectors and lamp positioning, and although I got a bit brighter image with reflectors it wasnt a huge difference, and also the position of the lamp and the reflector didnt seem matter much, if the lamp was in a position that most of its light got to direction of the lcd's and optics the image appeared and was ok :B Of course it could be that the optics in the projector which I am retrofitting fixed the light or something, but I dont think so as the original lamp had such a specially designed reflector.
These are just some of my thoughts, comment and answer if you like but I do understand that as I am just retrofitting the projector it might differ from those projects where you build a projector from a scratch, so these thoughts might not have anything to do with those.... I dunno....
Regards
HB
Also, I might add that there are people on this site who use soup ladles as reflectors, and myself I have some metal bowl I found in my kitchen :B
Works nicely and I am pretty sure those reflectors mentioned have nothing to do with accurate controlling of light or making beams paraller, they just reflect more light to the general direction of the lcd :B
Regards
HB
Works nicely and I am pretty sure those reflectors mentioned have nothing to do with accurate controlling of light or making beams paraller, they just reflect more light to the general direction of the lcd :B
Regards
HB
Helllo
Dear All
I have been following this project for a very long time now , and i am very amazed at the dedication and persistance of your goals in this project , and I was hoping that maybe i could become part of your wonderfull idea. I have been looking into the light source side of things for the last few weeks here in the UK. The super bright LED which you have been looking at are very cheap here in the Uk. You are looking at around £5 for a pack of 10.
So for £50 (which isnt much when u count cost of bulbs) you can get 100 of these beutys producing a serious amount of light. 1000 luminas is easily achiveable from the LED at a angle of 10% or less. I have several firms in the Uk working on my idea for a light source at the moment , and will post my findings on here if you so wish. My project is only going to be a rather small one comprising of a 2.,5 inch STN screen and a few odds and sodds i found around the house. (normal still cameras have nice lenses on them). If I can be of any assistance with electronics or information then please drop me a line i would be pleased to help in any way i can
Kind Reagrds
David
Dear All
I have been following this project for a very long time now , and i am very amazed at the dedication and persistance of your goals in this project , and I was hoping that maybe i could become part of your wonderfull idea. I have been looking into the light source side of things for the last few weeks here in the UK. The super bright LED which you have been looking at are very cheap here in the Uk. You are looking at around £5 for a pack of 10.
So for £50 (which isnt much when u count cost of bulbs) you can get 100 of these beutys producing a serious amount of light. 1000 luminas is easily achiveable from the LED at a angle of 10% or less. I have several firms in the Uk working on my idea for a light source at the moment , and will post my findings on here if you so wish. My project is only going to be a rather small one comprising of a 2.,5 inch STN screen and a few odds and sodds i found around the house. (normal still cameras have nice lenses on them). If I can be of any assistance with electronics or information then please drop me a line i would be pleased to help in any way i can
Kind Reagrds
David
MrMonopoly, sorry to break this to you :B
"The super bright LED which you have been looking at are very cheap here in the Uk. You are looking at around £5 for a pack of 10."
Um, that's not very very cheap...
"So for £50 (which isnt much when u count cost of bulbs) you can get 100 of these beutys producing a serious amount of light. 1000 luminas is easily achiveable from the LED at a angle of 10% or less."
... especially if you compare that with about £50 you can get a 150W MH and ballast that gives you over 10000 luminas and doesnt need lots of cooling...
"I have several firms in the Uk working on my idea for a light source at the moment , and will post my findings on here if you so wish."
We most definetly wish. Many (me too) have been wondering if LEDs could be used and about everyone have decided not to even try them after doing few calculations. You might wanna search the forum for posts about leds. Although it would be great if you'd try the led way and report the results to everyone, and I myself do really hope that all the calculations made before would be proved wrong by you.
Regards
HB
"The super bright LED which you have been looking at are very cheap here in the Uk. You are looking at around £5 for a pack of 10."
Um, that's not very very cheap...
"So for £50 (which isnt much when u count cost of bulbs) you can get 100 of these beutys producing a serious amount of light. 1000 luminas is easily achiveable from the LED at a angle of 10% or less."
... especially if you compare that with about £50 you can get a 150W MH and ballast that gives you over 10000 luminas and doesnt need lots of cooling...
"I have several firms in the Uk working on my idea for a light source at the moment , and will post my findings on here if you so wish."
We most definetly wish. Many (me too) have been wondering if LEDs could be used and about everyone have decided not to even try them after doing few calculations. You might wanna search the forum for posts about leds. Although it would be great if you'd try the led way and report the results to everyone, and I myself do really hope that all the calculations made before would be proved wrong by you.
Regards
HB
MrMonopoly:
In addition to the first answer I might add that there is a reason why it might be possible to use LEDs. If you calculate lumens you end up with the answer "naah, thats not enough, no way", but there is the issue of the angle. The light comes out of led like from a spot light, you can use about all of the light if you position it correctly. With other bulbs there has to be reflectors, condenser lenses and so on to get the light on the right direction, with leds there just might be a change they are not needed.
How much does this have effect on the matter? Probably not 90% (which you'd need to get the same amount of light on the wall than with a 150WMH), but if the LEDs stay cool (they probably wont if theres that many ) and last long and you get even 200 ANSI lumens, that'd be a nice little projector.
Regards
HB
In addition to the first answer I might add that there is a reason why it might be possible to use LEDs. If you calculate lumens you end up with the answer "naah, thats not enough, no way", but there is the issue of the angle. The light comes out of led like from a spot light, you can use about all of the light if you position it correctly. With other bulbs there has to be reflectors, condenser lenses and so on to get the light on the right direction, with leds there just might be a change they are not needed.
How much does this have effect on the matter? Probably not 90% (which you'd need to get the same amount of light on the wall than with a 150WMH), but if the LEDs stay cool (they probably wont if theres that many
) and last long and you get even 200 ANSI lumens, that'd be a nice little projector.Regards
HB
I did an experiment a while back with a cluster of 20 - 16,000 mcd 10 degree LED's. My findings were that the light produced was of extremely poor color quality, and though the light was absolutely blinding to look into, it wasn't nearly enough to drive an LCD projector. The experiment was to put the tightly packed cluster behind a projection panel and then attempt to project that small region of the image onto the wall. The image was very dark and there wasn't enough image color detail to make the image usable even if it were bright enough.
Thanks
Thanks for the speedy responces and suggestions. I have told the company I am working with at the moment what the project was for. They do infact sell clusters of special LED to power the outside light that shines onto buldings. They cpme complete with the lenses fitted. Now these type of lights must be very powerfull indead. I am holding Hi hopes that together with this optics company we can in fact come to a solution to the problem. So bare with me , I am working on it. if it turns into a totall disaster then nothing ventured nothing gained. Watch this space .
Thanks for the speedy responces and suggestions. I have told the company I am working with at the moment what the project was for. They do infact sell clusters of special LED to power the outside light that shines onto buldings. They cpme complete with the lenses fitted. Now these type of lights must be very powerfull indead. I am holding Hi hopes that together with this optics company we can in fact come to a solution to the problem. So bare with me , I am working on it
. if it turns into a totall disaster then nothing ventured nothing gained. Watch this space .
well if they are bright enough for outdoor lighting, then that is indeed impressive! Perhaps the lens that they fit to the front of the assembly holds some key to collecting more light that I was able to get. I hope that my comments previously didn't seem overly critical - in fact I hope that your LED clusters do work because LEDs could help make our projectors more energy efficient, smaller, and run cooler and quieter ... that would be most excellent!
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