zardoz
Thanks for the info. I'll check out happy harry's as soon as I can. I think AW demolition(also in burnside) might have something as well.
Right now my gear consists of a telex 640x480 LCD projection panel, and a 3000 lumen overhead. I will try and attach a picture of the projected image when i get home. It's just barely bright enough, which is why I'm looking into lights. The plan is to use a page magnifier fresnel behind the LCD, and the projection lens from the OHP. I would like a way to increase contrast somehow, but more brightness would satisfy me for now. If you've got any working bulbs with ballasts you want to sell, please let me know. Are you in the halifax area?
Axeman
Thanks for the info. I'll check out happy harry's as soon as I can. I think AW demolition(also in burnside) might have something as well.
Right now my gear consists of a telex 640x480 LCD projection panel, and a 3000 lumen overhead. I will try and attach a picture of the projected image when i get home. It's just barely bright enough, which is why I'm looking into lights. The plan is to use a page magnifier fresnel behind the LCD, and the projection lens from the OHP. I would like a way to increase contrast somehow, but more brightness would satisfy me for now. If you've got any working bulbs with ballasts you want to sell, please let me know. Are you in the halifax area?
Axeman
Axeman
I do have a couple of ballasts I think, I'll take a look for you. As I said though I dont have any spare mogul bases, but those are prety cheap at the electrical supply stores. AW thats the other guy I was thinking about, he didnt have much selection left after I got through with him. But that was quite a while ago. There is also another place near Lower Sackville (name unknown) he had a couple left after I got to him. I live up near Windsor. Good source of supply of what I think is a useable reflector is Saan's I got a 13 3/4 inch by 6 inch deep bowl (very shiny SST) for 7 bucks. And a 12 by 6 for 5 bucks. I'm in debate as to whether or not to use "both" (see the MH with enclosed luminaries thread) look at the "stage light reflector". I still have no idea how this design will work with a HID light (heat issues, also will it take some of it's light energy being sent back to the arc tube) I'll know more about that today, gonna go visit my lighting friend in the park. I use the 13.75 for the reflctor and the 12 for the other half of the "clamshell". Two pairs of sunglasses on and I can see it well enough to work on positioning, without sunglasses? Blindness! If you wish send me an email and we can go into some more detail, maybe hook up and go cruising for parts in one vehicle.
keep in touch
zardoz
I do have a couple of ballasts I think, I'll take a look for you. As I said though I dont have any spare mogul bases, but those are prety cheap at the electrical supply stores. AW thats the other guy I was thinking about, he didnt have much selection left after I got through with him. But that was quite a while ago. There is also another place near Lower Sackville (name unknown) he had a couple left after I got to him. I live up near Windsor. Good source of supply of what I think is a useable reflector is Saan's I got a 13 3/4 inch by 6 inch deep bowl (very shiny SST) for 7 bucks. And a 12 by 6 for 5 bucks. I'm in debate as to whether or not to use "both" (see the MH with enclosed luminaries thread) look at the "stage light reflector". I still have no idea how this design will work with a HID light (heat issues, also will it take some of it's light energy being sent back to the arc tube) I'll know more about that today, gonna go visit my lighting friend in the park. I use the 13.75 for the reflctor and the 12 for the other half of the "clamshell". Two pairs of sunglasses on and I can see it well enough to work on positioning, without sunglasses? Blindness! If you wish send me an email and we can go into some more detail, maybe hook up and go cruising for parts in one vehicle.
keep in touch
zardoz
Halogen
Check this out : Halogen bulbs
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/expresslighting/halogenbulbs.html
Check this out : Halogen bulbs
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/expresslighting/halogenbulbs.html
I'm new to this forum but not new to forums (joining on christmas, what a loser)
. Well, all this does seem a bit jumbled to me as well. I've been visiting sites and browsing this board a bit for almost a week. I was surfing and I just came across this by accident. It seems pretty feasible and not too hard to do. This question may be redundant but I'm thinking of using an OHP. All I can think I'd have to do is maybe adjust the light a bit and possibly get a new one... and just plop the lcd panel on top. Am I missing something or is this basically what you do? I have a friend who's going to undertake this project with me. We've both been researching. It just doesn't seem too hard. It seems the hardest part will be finding a good LCD panel. Thanks.
. Well, all this does seem a bit jumbled to me as well. I've been visiting sites and browsing this board a bit for almost a week. I was surfing and I just came across this by accident. It seems pretty feasible and not too hard to do. This question may be redundant but I'm thinking of using an OHP. All I can think I'd have to do is maybe adjust the light a bit and possibly get a new one... and just plop the lcd panel on top. Am I missing something or is this basically what you do? I have a friend who's going to undertake this project with me. We've both been researching. It just doesn't seem too hard. It seems the hardest part will be finding a good LCD panel. Thanks.Lurk Mode = OFF
Please read with LIGHT-HEARTED Mode = ON
I have been reading since September both at work and home.
I have read all threads over these last months and went to all of the suggested links (that were not broken nor expired) where I found more reading.
I want to congratulate all of the efforts and triumphs as well as the failures achieved by the collective known as DIY-LCDVIDEOTS (not meant to be derogatory). I have enjoyed your insights, even failure is knowledge.
I'll try to condense some of my discoveries gathered by the now published practitioners with some of my observatory comments peppered throughout.
Quick and dirty Method:
Buy an OHP and a display intended for use with an overhead.
Issues that arise are:
- Light bleeding into the room thus adding to ambient light and causing picture wash-out.
Fix: homemade masks and shields.
Caution: be careful not to decrease airflow around the OHP and Display Panel.
- Insufficient light due to either too much ambient light (daytime viewing) or pushing the projector to very large screen sizes.
Fix: some have swapped out the OEM bulbs and even sockets for much brighter units.
Caution: watch the temperature!!
- resolution of the display panels is lacking.
Fix: some are using line doublers either buying the expensive stand-alone hardware or setting up a PC based version. Another fix is experimenting with PC LCD displays, by trying to remove the case and backlighting as well as relocating the electronics on the PCBs by cable manipulation or lengthing.
Caution: It is "extremely" easy to break one of these fragile ribbon cables and you won't exactly find a replacement at your friendly neighborhood RadioShack.
Lighting:
LEDs, Spotlights, Floodlamps, 6k Lumen Flourescents and Metal Halide even headlights from cars have all been tried with mixed successes.
Observation: It would be easy to buy a true projector lamp, most have built-in reflectors and some even have IR glass to reduce transmitted heat to the lenses and LCD assemblys. Now in keeping with the DIY spirit we want to cut costs, improve the usual bulb life and perhaps even crank it up a notch or two when it comes to actual lumens output.
LED's are expected to be the absolute coolest to operate yet have thus far proven to be expensive and on the verge of developing a sufficient light output to be practical for those of us attempting to do the impractical.
FloureX (Flourescent Light) distributed by LOA (Lights Of America) these are about the size of a loaf of bread, they are intended to be used as outdoor floodlights and even have a daylight sensor built-in. They use 65 watts and have an output of 8,225 lumens
and a Kelvin rating of 6500 (similar to Metal-Halide). They are very cool at about 100 degrees farenheit. They sell for about $30.00USD and are found in Home Improvement stores. Note:no additional ballast required.
At issue with these is the fact that the light produced is very diffuse. Most projectors use point-source lights which is then converted with lenses to create a "field of parallel light" to present to the LCD.
Metal-Halide lamps are currently the DIY choice to use Brute-Force and get the maximum available (note: I said available not useable) light to the LCD. These are being used in 150 watt and even up to 500 watts or beyond type arrangements. They do require a ballast and an immense amount of cooling help. Some are using fans, cold mirrors and even low-E glass to isolate the heat from the other components.
One suggestion here guys: Don't fight natural laws, heat rises. Don't use fans to push the air down from the top! Go with the flow and if you are using fans push the cool air in from the bottom, it will also push some of the fan noise into the box, thus muffleing some of the noise generated by the fan. I want to be able to hear the actors whispering. The life of these bulbs is something like 10 to 20 thousand hours.
Reflector: Next you need some way to gather the light generated by one of these sources and presenting an even flow of this light to the surface of the LCD panel. This is usually accomplished with some sort of lense.
My insight: If your LCD had a backlight it probably had some sort of polarizing or diffuser coating/film, this may explain Moire patterns when a Fresnel is placed next to it. You can re-create this effect by sliding two fresnels lenses together. So if the backlight was on the side of the LCD I would suggest the light optics were designed to spread the light across the back of the LCD then twist 90 degrees to move through the screen towords the viewer.
The Flourex is already diffuse but due to the folding of the tubes there is a lot of wasted light. Thus most of the reflector experiments are concieved.
Once you have chosen a bright but not too hot or expensive light source, with a good reflector, you need a diffuser/lense to gather and create a wash of parallel light to present to the surface of the LCD, keeping in mind you want as much efficiency as possible.
Once this light has gone through the LCD you can imagine the LCD as your "Phantom" light source and the next operation is to get this "light image" to project. This is where you may need to reduce the resultant picture to fit your projection lense.
If we can pull all of this together, a small, cool running, quiet and inexpensive projector is within our grasp.
Don't give up, I certainly won't. Unless I get a couple of thousand bucks to buy a projector and worry about the short yet expensive bulb life.
Please read with LIGHT-HEARTED Mode = ON
I have been reading since September both at work and home.
I have read all threads over these last months and went to all of the suggested links (that were not broken nor expired) where I found more reading.
I want to congratulate all of the efforts and triumphs as well as the failures achieved by the collective known as DIY-LCDVIDEOTS (not meant to be derogatory). I have enjoyed your insights, even failure is knowledge.
I'll try to condense some of my discoveries gathered by the now published practitioners with some of my observatory comments peppered throughout.
Quick and dirty Method:
Buy an OHP and a display intended for use with an overhead.
Issues that arise are:
- Light bleeding into the room thus adding to ambient light and causing picture wash-out.
Fix: homemade masks and shields.
Caution: be careful not to decrease airflow around the OHP and Display Panel.
- Insufficient light due to either too much ambient light (daytime viewing) or pushing the projector to very large screen sizes.
Fix: some have swapped out the OEM bulbs and even sockets for much brighter units.
Caution: watch the temperature!!
- resolution of the display panels is lacking.
Fix: some are using line doublers either buying the expensive stand-alone hardware or setting up a PC based version. Another fix is experimenting with PC LCD displays, by trying to remove the case and backlighting as well as relocating the electronics on the PCBs by cable manipulation or lengthing.
Caution: It is "extremely" easy to break one of these fragile ribbon cables and you won't exactly find a replacement at your friendly neighborhood RadioShack.
Lighting:
LEDs, Spotlights, Floodlamps, 6k Lumen Flourescents and Metal Halide even headlights from cars have all been tried with mixed successes.
Observation: It would be easy to buy a true projector lamp, most have built-in reflectors and some even have IR glass to reduce transmitted heat to the lenses and LCD assemblys. Now in keeping with the DIY spirit we want to cut costs, improve the usual bulb life and perhaps even crank it up a notch or two when it comes to actual lumens output.
LED's are expected to be the absolute coolest to operate yet have thus far proven to be expensive and on the verge of developing a sufficient light output to be practical for those of us attempting to do the impractical.
FloureX (Flourescent Light) distributed by LOA (Lights Of America) these are about the size of a loaf of bread, they are intended to be used as outdoor floodlights and even have a daylight sensor built-in. They use 65 watts and have an output of 8,225 lumens
and a Kelvin rating of 6500 (similar to Metal-Halide). They are very cool at about 100 degrees farenheit. They sell for about $30.00USD and are found in Home Improvement stores. Note:no additional ballast required.
At issue with these is the fact that the light produced is very diffuse. Most projectors use point-source lights which is then converted with lenses to create a "field of parallel light" to present to the LCD.
Metal-Halide lamps are currently the DIY choice to use Brute-Force and get the maximum available (note: I said available not useable) light to the LCD. These are being used in 150 watt and even up to 500 watts or beyond type arrangements. They do require a ballast and an immense amount of cooling help. Some are using fans, cold mirrors and even low-E glass to isolate the heat from the other components.
One suggestion here guys: Don't fight natural laws, heat rises. Don't use fans to push the air down from the top! Go with the flow and if you are using fans push the cool air in from the bottom, it will also push some of the fan noise into the box, thus muffleing some of the noise generated by the fan. I want to be able to hear the actors whispering. The life of these bulbs is something like 10 to 20 thousand hours.
Reflector: Next you need some way to gather the light generated by one of these sources and presenting an even flow of this light to the surface of the LCD panel. This is usually accomplished with some sort of lense.
My insight: If your LCD had a backlight it probably had some sort of polarizing or diffuser coating/film, this may explain Moire patterns when a Fresnel is placed next to it. You can re-create this effect by sliding two fresnels lenses together. So if the backlight was on the side of the LCD I would suggest the light optics were designed to spread the light across the back of the LCD then twist 90 degrees to move through the screen towords the viewer.
The Flourex is already diffuse but due to the folding of the tubes there is a lot of wasted light. Thus most of the reflector experiments are concieved.
Once you have chosen a bright but not too hot or expensive light source, with a good reflector, you need a diffuser/lense to gather and create a wash of parallel light to present to the surface of the LCD, keeping in mind you want as much efficiency as possible.
Once this light has gone through the LCD you can imagine the LCD as your "Phantom" light source and the next operation is to get this "light image" to project. This is where you may need to reduce the resultant picture to fit your projection lense.
If we can pull all of this together, a small, cool running, quiet and inexpensive projector is within our grasp.
Don't give up, I certainly won't. Unless I get a couple of thousand bucks to buy a projector and worry about the short yet expensive bulb life.
nice post Doktor_Ssyko. You educated me. I'm getting there guys. I'm about ready to start my own projector despite everyone ignoring my posts
. So the LCD panel goes ON TOP of the projector. I get it jk. You guys will all be jealous of my projector. I got an extra $120 for christmas that I'm putting towards the projector so I'm jumping for a really nice LCD panel. You only live once, eh?
. So the LCD panel goes ON TOP of the projector. I get it jk. You guys will all be jealous of my projector. I got an extra $120 for christmas that I'm putting towards the projector so I'm jumping for a really nice LCD panel. You only live once, eh?
Good results.....
Hi All,
I've finally got hold of another OHP an Grafoskop-OH Anglia, never heard of the make but it's ok.
Picture quality is fine, but it really needs a larger bulb.........the bulb that is fitted at the moment is a A1/223 24v 250w quartz halogeon bulb.....is there a 400w bulb out there to fit my ohp ??
Screen sizes have been anything from 12' x 10' super sharp (Bigger than my wall !! LOL) to 7' x 6' fits wall perfect !!
If anyone out there knows of a uk supplier for the above bulbs, put in a reply or e-mail me.
Cheers
Cosmic023
Hi All,
I've finally got hold of another OHP an Grafoskop-OH Anglia, never heard of the make but it's ok.
Picture quality is fine, but it really needs a larger bulb.........the bulb that is fitted at the moment is a A1/223 24v 250w quartz halogeon bulb.....is there a 400w bulb out there to fit my ohp ??
Screen sizes have been anything from 12' x 10' super sharp (Bigger than my wall !! LOL) to 7' x 6' fits wall perfect !!
If anyone out there knows of a uk supplier for the above bulbs, put in a reply or e-mail me.
Cheers
Cosmic023
1st Trial Run......
Hi All,
"Happy new year to ya all !!"
I've did my first projector run on Tuesday, everything went fine i just need more wall space !! ;-)) LOL (Screen size 75")
Here is a picture........
Also the bulbs are used in most disco lighting equipment in the uk, would like to find a 400w bulb, but i haven't found any suppliers yet ??
Cheers 4 now
Cosmic023
Hi All,
"Happy new year to ya all !!"
I've did my first projector run on Tuesday, everything went fine i just need more wall space !! ;-)) LOL (Screen size 75")
Here is a picture........
Also the bulbs are used in most disco lighting equipment in the uk, would like to find a 400w bulb, but i haven't found any suppliers yet ??
Cheers 4 now
Cosmic023
Attachments
Hi Verbose,
Yeah i know it's only test bars but then, i was in the process of setting everything up.
Soon as i get round to it, maybe@ the weekend, i'll post some dvd pics.........
Also the wall, the blemishes / marks had just been painted......so that's why there are bright blobs in the picture.
Cheers
Cosmic023
Yeah i know it's only test bars but then, i was in the process of setting everything up.
Soon as i get round to it, maybe@ the weekend, i'll post some dvd pics.........
Also the wall, the blemishes / marks had just been painted......so that's why there are bright blobs in the picture.
Cheers
Cosmic023
LCD Panel......
Hi Verbose,
I'm using a Ask Impact 24 LCD Panel........
If you need more info go to this link.....
Projector Link
This is where i first had the idea of using a lcd panel / OHP, i was well impressed. Not as good as a proper video projector, but then this unit is well cheap to run, instead of paying big money for bulb costs. For my OHP they are about £5 per bulb !!
Cheers
Cosmic023
Hi Verbose,
I'm using a Ask Impact 24 LCD Panel........
If you need more info go to this link.....
Projector Link
This is where i first had the idea of using a lcd panel / OHP, i was well impressed. Not as good as a proper video projector, but then this unit is well cheap to run, instead of paying big money for bulb costs. For my OHP they are about £5 per bulb !!
Cheers
Cosmic023
I have a quick question for all of you out there. I was wondering what is the best setup for a beginner such as myself. Im sure your tired of this question, but ive searched all over the internet (including ebay) for a quality projection panel to no avail. I would like composite input and perhaps s-video, although not required. Im only 17, so my budgets relatively small, around $300 for the whole setup. Is there anyone out there that has a good projection panel for sale? I'm kinda desperate, though not pitifully so. Ive read about every thread on here and although there is some great info, including good panels, but I can't find any for sale. Thanks for your time.
Lucas
Lucas
My advice is to keep looking for a projection panel.
I found one that accepts computer input, 640x480 resolution, and full 32-bit color for $63 shipped on E-bay that I won. (this was a few weeks ago)
As far as simplicity, this is the only method that's tried-and-true. All the others are hit-and-miss as far as we can tell.
Keep looking for projection panels on E-bay, or try a local office surplus shop -- Tuscon probably has a couple of those. School auctions, college technology sales... the good news is that projection panels are old-tech and everyone's getting rid of them. Keep thinking of new ways to find them... my friend got one (REALLY nice NView) from his college for $55 at a tech sale. E-bay's not the only option.
--Clint
I found one that accepts computer input, 640x480 resolution, and full 32-bit color for $63 shipped on E-bay that I won. (this was a few weeks ago)
As far as simplicity, this is the only method that's tried-and-true. All the others are hit-and-miss as far as we can tell.
Keep looking for projection panels on E-bay, or try a local office surplus shop -- Tuscon probably has a couple of those. School auctions, college technology sales... the good news is that projection panels are old-tech and everyone's getting rid of them. Keep thinking of new ways to find them... my friend got one (REALLY nice NView) from his college for $55 at a tech sale. E-bay's not the only option.
--Clint
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