If you haven't settled on things: the Parts Express Podzuma was designed for just this application.
Tom.
Tom.
As promised here some pics of last years project.
First the finished one.
Second a little from the side where you can see the reflex port that doubles as a handle.
Here you can inside the handle/reflex port that the driver are mounted back to back ensure stability, slightly more sensitivity, and best of all cancels out magnetic radiation.
In the final one you can see most of the part prior to assembly. I've made them on a CNC router.
First the finished one.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Second a little from the side where you can see the reflex port that doubles as a handle.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here you can inside the handle/reflex port that the driver are mounted back to back ensure stability, slightly more sensitivity, and best of all cancels out magnetic radiation.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
In the final one you can see most of the part prior to assembly. I've made them on a CNC router.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've been looking to build the same.
a Boombax that doubles as HIFI speakers for my PC, and portable and light enough for me to carry outdoors.
At this point in time a carry the stock t-amp and a pair of panasonic speakers from an old hifi using some energizer 2500mah nimhs.
I'm looking to put an SLA instead of NIMHS, I actually opened a post regarding that, but i havent decided which SLA to buy yet.
1.3ah are great size and weight but can only deliver 6 hours of playtime which I think is not enough, OK but not enough for some times.
2.2ah are twice the size weight and runtime for the same price.
funnily enough I can get a 7ah big heavy thing for the same price as the previous 2 (AUD$15) but theyre just too big.
I'm still very tempted because id get an incredible runtime, for the price.
For some reason any SLA between 2ah and 7ah are about twice the price,
What do you guys reckon? which one should I choose (i know its a personal choice really but i need some tips to decide)
Going back to the boombox.
I bought 2 FE127Es and was going to build 2 separate BR boxes as per the manufacturers specs, since i have no idea how to calculate a box myself.
Has anyone ever built a boombox for those?
Cheers!!!
a Boombax that doubles as HIFI speakers for my PC, and portable and light enough for me to carry outdoors.
At this point in time a carry the stock t-amp and a pair of panasonic speakers from an old hifi using some energizer 2500mah nimhs.
I'm looking to put an SLA instead of NIMHS, I actually opened a post regarding that, but i havent decided which SLA to buy yet.
1.3ah are great size and weight but can only deliver 6 hours of playtime which I think is not enough, OK but not enough for some times.
2.2ah are twice the size weight and runtime for the same price.
funnily enough I can get a 7ah big heavy thing for the same price as the previous 2 (AUD$15) but theyre just too big.
I'm still very tempted because id get an incredible runtime, for the price.
For some reason any SLA between 2ah and 7ah are about twice the price,
What do you guys reckon? which one should I choose (i know its a personal choice really but i need some tips to decide)
Going back to the boombox.
I bought 2 FE127Es and was going to build 2 separate BR boxes as per the manufacturers specs, since i have no idea how to calculate a box myself.
Has anyone ever built a boombox for those?
Cheers!!!
fostex stuff.
yeah, I agree about the higher q stuff as being more versatile for outdoor use, without a room load. 127e versus 126e. go for 127e. for high output, why not go for the fe207e and get real output? beta 12lta? mono? something like that... for boom boxes, I tend to go for more of a "portable PA system" for those particular outdoor bbqs, where everyone is chatty and playing frisbee across the feild.
actually though, the real ticket should be pioneer b20 8 inch full range in sealed or bass reflex with the goldwood tweeter and 1.0 cap. cheap, killer dynamics, easy sound, musicality, and wide dispersion... interesting writeup on on godzilla's homepage. one of the cain and cain shop systems consists of these drivers with a rat shack supertweeter in a vented box. I love them. if I purpose built an outdoor system, that would be it...
but since I am a salvager,
my current portable system is an old panasonic rx-5200 that I threw some vintage fe103 drivers into from a thrift store salvage mated with a bazooka tube car subwoofer. it is really more of a "portable plug in" and it only sounds good when playing near its max spl. it got me through half a summer of painting houses... man did the neighbors like deltron 3030...neil young, lee perry, classical music on the radio.
the other system uses the same subwoofer with a salvaged el48 pentode amp from an old radio into fe103e speakers mounted in nagaoka "periscope" enclosures (small bass reflex). this is more of a portable plug in system for use at cabins, freind's houses, etc when I feel like classy nice sound.
battery stuff is frustrating. I recommend an extention cord. but eh, this is my life... you have yours.
Clark
yeah, I agree about the higher q stuff as being more versatile for outdoor use, without a room load. 127e versus 126e. go for 127e. for high output, why not go for the fe207e and get real output? beta 12lta? mono? something like that... for boom boxes, I tend to go for more of a "portable PA system" for those particular outdoor bbqs, where everyone is chatty and playing frisbee across the feild.
actually though, the real ticket should be pioneer b20 8 inch full range in sealed or bass reflex with the goldwood tweeter and 1.0 cap. cheap, killer dynamics, easy sound, musicality, and wide dispersion... interesting writeup on on godzilla's homepage. one of the cain and cain shop systems consists of these drivers with a rat shack supertweeter in a vented box. I love them. if I purpose built an outdoor system, that would be it...
but since I am a salvager,
my current portable system is an old panasonic rx-5200 that I threw some vintage fe103 drivers into from a thrift store salvage mated with a bazooka tube car subwoofer. it is really more of a "portable plug in" and it only sounds good when playing near its max spl. it got me through half a summer of painting houses... man did the neighbors like deltron 3030...neil young, lee perry, classical music on the radio.
the other system uses the same subwoofer with a salvaged el48 pentode amp from an old radio into fe103e speakers mounted in nagaoka "periscope" enclosures (small bass reflex). this is more of a portable plug in system for use at cabins, freind's houses, etc when I feel like classy nice sound.
battery stuff is frustrating. I recommend an extention cord. but eh, this is my life... you have yours.
Clark
aussiebuddha said:
http://www.commonsenserc.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_35&products_id=68
42$ will get you 2x 11.1v (12.6 v fresh out of the charger) 150 gram 2000mah LiPoly packs. Get an appropriate charger (a 30$ Apache 2030 will do fine for a 3-hour charge) and wire them in paralell; you'll have 4Ah at only 300 grams. This should get you 20+ hours.
These packs support a maximum sustained output of 32 amps when wired in paralell, so current draw is not much of a problem. I would, however, pack them in some sort of shock-mount, while making sure they get adequate ventilation.
Thinking about a boombox/ghetto blaster as well...
Design goals: max size about 20 liters, max weight about 10 kg (20lbs), as cheap and loud as possible.
The amp will probably be AMP6-BASIC from 41hz.com and the battery either a motorcycle battery or an array of AA cell batteries.
I would like to go either mono-channel 2-way bi-amped or stereo full range drivers or possibly even stereo 2-way... Haven't come up with a killer setup yet.
Getting a good efficiency at high frequencies is trivial, it's the low frequencies that are tricky. First I tried modelling a horn loading scheme, you can actually fit a >100dB at 100Hz-1500Hz per watt producing horn in less than 20 liters but actually doing one without folding/bending the horn is easier said than done and wouldn't be the most portable design ever made. So I've dropped the crazy horn ghetto blaster idea for now..
Any other crazy, but more doable box ideas?
How efficient are transmission lines?
And what drivers to use? TangBand elements would be pretty cheap but their efficiency isn't that good (around 88dB etc). The Fostex full ranges seem to be significantly more efficient but I can't find a price for them at the moment, but they are probably too expensive for this project..
So, if you have good recommendations for efficient and cheap drivers then please let me know. By cheap I mean about 20 euros per driver. The amp6 will be 40 euros shipped and I hope not to exceed 100euros... too much...
Then again, an A/B class amp would only cost like 10eur...
Design goals: max size about 20 liters, max weight about 10 kg (20lbs), as cheap and loud as possible.
The amp will probably be AMP6-BASIC from 41hz.com and the battery either a motorcycle battery or an array of AA cell batteries.
I would like to go either mono-channel 2-way bi-amped or stereo full range drivers or possibly even stereo 2-way... Haven't come up with a killer setup yet.
Getting a good efficiency at high frequencies is trivial, it's the low frequencies that are tricky. First I tried modelling a horn loading scheme, you can actually fit a >100dB at 100Hz-1500Hz per watt producing horn in less than 20 liters but actually doing one without folding/bending the horn is easier said than done and wouldn't be the most portable design ever made. So I've dropped the crazy horn ghetto blaster idea for now..
Any other crazy, but more doable box ideas?
How efficient are transmission lines?And what drivers to use? TangBand elements would be pretty cheap but their efficiency isn't that good (around 88dB etc). The Fostex full ranges seem to be significantly more efficient but I can't find a price for them at the moment, but they are probably too expensive for this project..
So, if you have good recommendations for efficient and cheap drivers then please let me know. By cheap I mean about 20 euros per driver. The amp6 will be 40 euros shipped and I hope not to exceed 100euros... too much...
Then again, an A/B class amp would only cost like 10eur...
Here's some relavent threads-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=94464
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=93285&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95089
My box-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1137106#post1137106
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=94464
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=93285&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95089
My box-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1137106#post1137106
Thank you for the links, durable looking boom box you got there, Pekar
The Fostex full-ranges are too expensive for my project, for example the FE166 is about 85 euros (110 USD) a piece locally (with taxes).
I'm thinking about making the box from PVC pipe or possibly Sonotube type material, that would make it lighter than wood and pretty durable still, about 6" diameter maybe, with plywood end caps perhaps. We'll see...
The Fostex full-ranges are too expensive for my project, for example the FE166 is about 85 euros (110 USD) a piece locally (with taxes).
I'm thinking about making the box from PVC pipe or possibly Sonotube type material, that would make it lighter than wood and pretty durable still, about 6" diameter maybe, with plywood end caps perhaps. We'll see...
It's funny to find a thread based on something that I have been thinking about for the last 2 years. Unfortunately I'm not any closer to a real solution than I was when I started!
I think my problem is that I want it all. Smooth undistorted sound from around 35 hz up to at least 18khz. I have built a couple of prototypes and am currently playing around with two HiVi B3N's per side in a Bose style trasmission line. Still no deep bass and limited dynamics. I have considered splitting up the duties between subwoofer and mid/tweeter but am enamored of the idea of being able to use a t-amp and sla charged from a solar panel!
If I had to plug it in it seems the Keiga "multimedia" amp seems perfect for making a compact and very dynamic sub/sat system.
I am not opposed to the idea of using a single larger high effeciency driver. Would you just use one channel of the t-amp? I suppose this would allow even longer battery time.
Anybody come up with a solution they are ecstatic about please post it!
I think my problem is that I want it all. Smooth undistorted sound from around 35 hz up to at least 18khz. I have built a couple of prototypes and am currently playing around with two HiVi B3N's per side in a Bose style trasmission line. Still no deep bass and limited dynamics. I have considered splitting up the duties between subwoofer and mid/tweeter but am enamored of the idea of being able to use a t-amp and sla charged from a solar panel!
If I had to plug it in it seems the Keiga "multimedia" amp seems perfect for making a compact and very dynamic sub/sat system.
I am not opposed to the idea of using a single larger high effeciency driver. Would you just use one channel of the t-amp? I suppose this would allow even longer battery time.
Anybody come up with a solution they are ecstatic about please post it!
Slight side track
Hi,
I am doing a similar thing, but for a proper hifi for my car.
I had a modded T-amp, fostex 126 drivers and was going to run it from my MP3 player.
I did all the tests using my main CDP it sounded awsome, as soon as i plugged in the MP3 things sounded AWFUL!
What can I do for a source in a car that will work? not wanting to spend more than £40 or so, unless someone got a great idea
Hi,
I am doing a similar thing, but for a proper hifi for my car.
I had a modded T-amp, fostex 126 drivers and was going to run it from my MP3 player.
I did all the tests using my main CDP it sounded awsome, as soon as i plugged in the MP3 things sounded AWFUL!
What can I do for a source in a car that will work? not wanting to spend more than £40 or so, unless someone got a great idea
"What can I do for a source in a car that will work? not wanting to spend more than £40 or so"
ipod shuffle?
portable cd player?
-------------------
"I want it all. Smooth undistorted sound from around 35 hz up to at least 18khz"
I think to have it all, either a two way system, or a 2.1 system will have to be the answer.
I wanted it all as well, but wanted a more power efficient and less bulky system.
Step one is to look for speaker designs that meet your needs, then paste two together, choose an amplification system, and voila!
...OK, it's a lot more work than that.
ipod shuffle?
portable cd player?
-------------------
"I want it all. Smooth undistorted sound from around 35 hz up to at least 18khz"
I think to have it all, either a two way system, or a 2.1 system will have to be the answer.
I wanted it all as well, but wanted a more power efficient and less bulky system.
Step one is to look for speaker designs that meet your needs, then paste two together, choose an amplification system, and voila!
...OK, it's a lot more work than that.
Make sure the bitrate of the MP3's you're playing is at least 128 Kbps.
Portable CD players with digital outs are scarce. Portable DVD players sometimes have them.
Probably a good Sony discman, or a similar unit is your easiest option.
You will probably have to use AA batteries to power it. I haven't been able to get battery sharing to work without the cd players' motor noise coming through the audio.
My personal goal is to make my own with a cdrom drive. Here's a start-
http://flickr.com/photos/47642593@N00/329245582/
Portable CD players with digital outs are scarce. Portable DVD players sometimes have them.
Probably a good Sony discman, or a similar unit is your easiest option.
You will probably have to use AA batteries to power it. I haven't been able to get battery sharing to work without the cd players' motor noise coming through the audio.
My personal goal is to make my own with a cdrom drive. Here's a start-
http://flickr.com/photos/47642593@N00/329245582/
Hi, I followed a bunch of the replys and have two thoughts to offer. I use both "T"s and "Super T"s for various applications. They excel in many ways and would be suitable for your type of application. Problem number one is that I believe SI is defunct and the "T"s are becoming scarce. Second I use the Fostx 126e's as full rangers. They may work for you or not. Their max travel is fairly low and they really don't do much below about 75 HZ. In a smallish box you will need baffle step correction and as a consequence lose about 4 db of sensitivity. Ported is the only way to go for any decent level of bass (especially if you take it ousside). Sealed they start to roll off around 200. I would look for a midbass that has a better bottom end and since it is a general purpose type system not really worry about anything over 10K HZ. It probably won't be audible in your application.
Good listening
gofar99
Good listening
gofar99
Might want to look at the Trends Audio amp as a Super T replacement. They already did some of the major upgrades that DIYers were doing:
http://www.trendsaudio.com/EN/Product/TA-10_desc.htm
http://www.trendsaudio.com/EN/Product/TA-10_desc.htm
have you looked on onther threads..?
have a look here:
a boom box alternative
cheap and no doubt nice to listen to.
have a look here:
a boom box alternative
cheap and no doubt nice to listen to.
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