I'm not understanding.......the bottom of the string is as far down as it can get on the arm i'm building.....it is simply trapped/wrapped around the screw, right there at the magnet, at the point where the magnet is screwed into the bottom of the arm. I don't see how it could be placed any lower......
Happy New Year Frank and all. We had 14C for Christmas day and 16C before. Today is sunny, not very English that. How was/is Berlin? As Aldi and Lidl are as British as myself these days Stollen fills our cupboards. As my tastes are very German my Christmas would pass I am sure. I had the new ELO LP for Christmas from Colleen. It's obviously modern era, not bad. Jeff Lynne like herself is a Birmingham chap ( Colleen in a fight I am sure is a chap, tough lady ). Colleen is a very serrious football fan, ELO's Mr Blue Sky is Birmingham City's theme tune. ELO should be on any list if you don't have it. The new one is very worthy.
My old boss got his JVC L5 turntable. It sounds great and he loves it. The arm and the motor seem to be the real deal whilst looking like all the rest ( or worse ). He gave me some LP's he knew I liked. Charlie Haden Closeness duets, that alone was worth the turntable in value. The system L5-E A&R A60 ( mid era, very very nice, so much space in the music ) LS3/5A clones with Audax tweeter instead of KEF. Works well and perhaps better than the KEF. Since 1997 Julian has had no system, just the LP's. The JVC seems able to track any warp. The PU is like AT93/95. I got a NOS DSC stylus for £6 that is of good quality. The motor to my ears sounds better than a SP10 ( makes fewer mistakes ). It doesn't seem to slow on fast bass and no HF spitting, good depth. It's a great turntable as a spare or to play old vinyl that should not go near an expensive PU. The L3-E looks better ( Colleen's ) and I think the L5-E sounds better. Not much in it. The L5 seems to have more movement in the arm. It feels badly made because off this. Not at all. Just allowing bad records to play. It has a near standard bearing in addition to the linear tracking and servo's. It needs something so why not make it able to play very bad examples. On the L3 they seem to hold the arm in tighter limits to make it seem what you would exspect. The L5 almost seems broken until this is understood. The bearings of this arm to support what you say. It is a gimble and sounds fantastic. Hat's off to JVC. they have made something impossible work OK. It is against nearly every false rule in the book. The turntable does sound something like a mastertape.
Has this anything to do with your arm? Well yes. It is a turntable one can live with after knowing the best. It is many times better than it should be and makes a LP12 Ekos seem a bit wrong. LP12 Ekos is a supurb turntable so L3 or 5 is not bad. In terms of hearing the mastertape I suspect L3/5 is better. No wobble or transient slow down obvious. Microphone to speaker direct sound if Buddy Holly.
My old boss got his JVC L5 turntable. It sounds great and he loves it. The arm and the motor seem to be the real deal whilst looking like all the rest ( or worse ). He gave me some LP's he knew I liked. Charlie Haden Closeness duets, that alone was worth the turntable in value. The system L5-E A&R A60 ( mid era, very very nice, so much space in the music ) LS3/5A clones with Audax tweeter instead of KEF. Works well and perhaps better than the KEF. Since 1997 Julian has had no system, just the LP's. The JVC seems able to track any warp. The PU is like AT93/95. I got a NOS DSC stylus for £6 that is of good quality. The motor to my ears sounds better than a SP10 ( makes fewer mistakes ). It doesn't seem to slow on fast bass and no HF spitting, good depth. It's a great turntable as a spare or to play old vinyl that should not go near an expensive PU. The L3-E looks better ( Colleen's ) and I think the L5-E sounds better. Not much in it. The L5 seems to have more movement in the arm. It feels badly made because off this. Not at all. Just allowing bad records to play. It has a near standard bearing in addition to the linear tracking and servo's. It needs something so why not make it able to play very bad examples. On the L3 they seem to hold the arm in tighter limits to make it seem what you would exspect. The L5 almost seems broken until this is understood. The bearings of this arm to support what you say. It is a gimble and sounds fantastic. Hat's off to JVC. they have made something impossible work OK. It is against nearly every false rule in the book. The turntable does sound something like a mastertape.
Has this anything to do with your arm? Well yes. It is a turntable one can live with after knowing the best. It is many times better than it should be and makes a LP12 Ekos seem a bit wrong. LP12 Ekos is a supurb turntable so L3 or 5 is not bad. In terms of hearing the mastertape I suspect L3/5 is better. No wobble or transient slow down obvious. Microphone to speaker direct sound if Buddy Holly.
Hi Nigel,
Since the L5 features a motor that is based on the TT-71, I completely understand...
Try to get your hands on a TT-101, one of the all-time great DD motors! You got to come over again and hang out for a few days...
Went fishing this morning, then had three root canals filled in at noon(what am I doing here in front of the computer?...
Now to Plexi's(your real name is?) problem. I looked at the two pics you posted earlier, but it is very hard to see where the thread exits the screw and wether it is going into the sackhole in the arm, all the way down to the magnet. Your counterweight is not excentrically drilled. How did you plan to adjust azimuth?
Could you post a few more pics? That would be helpful.
The above may call for more replies before the year is over , but let me wish all diyaudio members a happy and healthy 2016 already!
Cheers,
Frank
Since the L5 features a motor that is based on the TT-71, I completely understand...
Try to get your hands on a TT-101, one of the all-time great DD motors! You got to come over again and hang out for a few days...
Went fishing this morning, then had three root canals filled in at noon(what am I doing here in front of the computer?...
Now to Plexi's(your real name is?) problem. I looked at the two pics you posted earlier, but it is very hard to see where the thread exits the screw and wether it is going into the sackhole in the arm, all the way down to the magnet. Your counterweight is not excentrically drilled. How did you plan to adjust azimuth?
Could you post a few more pics? That would be helpful.
The above may call for more replies before the year is over , but let me wish all diyaudio members a happy and healthy 2016 already!
Cheers,
Frank
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As I understand it the same motor was develloped into the cutting lathe as used by Mobile Fidelity. As the lathe worked at half speed it needed to be good. Paul Stewart was at JVC then and the imformation comes from him. I would say if people knew this the price would have been high. I was very heavy with Paul about not selling JVC on sound quality criteria. He said the hi fi press didn't want to know. JVC X1 was the first modern generation pick up I heard. I suspect is one of the greats. It is the basis of the advanced styli we use now.
Sorry about your teeth.
Sorry also eveyone to put the JVC into this thread. Thought good news is worth sharing. That JVC arm must have answers. How to make it DIY is a tough one. It is so unlike the Schroeder and yet it isn't. My main point is the arm wand is the big deal. The bearing might make it worse, that's certain.
One thing you guys don't know. Frank is interested in sound in a way that would be unwise for many as it would be a whole life and more. Somehow familly, cooking and fishing happens. That is the part of Frank's arm you might find hard to copy. Knowing when something sounds wrong and working to fix it. Doubtless of things to copy it is a good one. The JVC has something and with some thought might be a path to sucess.
Sorry about your teeth.
Sorry also eveyone to put the JVC into this thread. Thought good news is worth sharing. That JVC arm must have answers. How to make it DIY is a tough one. It is so unlike the Schroeder and yet it isn't. My main point is the arm wand is the big deal. The bearing might make it worse, that's certain.
One thing you guys don't know. Frank is interested in sound in a way that would be unwise for many as it would be a whole life and more. Somehow familly, cooking and fishing happens. That is the part of Frank's arm you might find hard to copy. Knowing when something sounds wrong and working to fix it. Doubtless of things to copy it is a good one. The JVC has something and with some thought might be a path to sucess.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://postimg.org/image/cx0ahc7yv/
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://postimg.org/image/9fggdl87l/
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://postimg.org/image/5ebv868s5/
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://postimg.org/image/a05d0oier/
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://postimg.org/image/vcygf2io9/
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://postimg.org/image/q8we3p5fx/
http://postimg.org/image/v68cmr7zn/
thanks in advance for looking at my build.
Q: ........is very hard to see where the thread exits the screw and wether it is going into the sackhole in the arm, all the way down to the magnet.
A: In short, yes the thread goes all the way down to the magnet.....but the issue i;ve got is :When I drilled that top hole (in top plate) I tried to put it off center so that when I ran the thread through it would just lay up on one side of the screw and then be closer to center in terms of relations to the lower magnet. But I am finding that the hanging thread just follows the inner thread of the screw and gets wrapped around it. REsulting in a totally arbitrary and imperfect resting place. And that is part of why my thread is crooked and not perpendicular from top to bottom. The other variable in why its crooked is the exact location of the arm hanger in relation to the bottom magnet. This I can fine tune later as I oversized the mounting dado for the arm hanger and will shim it to where i need it later.....but I need to find a better way to deal with the thread.
by the way. the method of mounting that thread here is just basically trapping the thread in between the screw threads and the screw hole. Again I doubt this is the accepted technique and I need to go back and find out that detail, but this is the best I could conjur at the moment.....
Q: Your counterweight is not excentrically drilled. How did you plan to adjust azimuth?
A: If I understand azmuth is the squareness of the cartridge body and particularly the stylus in terms of coming down straight to the groove. I'm not quite seeing how the counterweight on the back of the arm is involved in that? I usually adjust azimuth just by shimming the cart at the headshell (if needed).......
Unless by eccentric hole. You mean that by drilling the hole for the counterweight off center, one could set it off center a bit and lock it down with an allen screw at that point, and maybe this tilts the cartridge (and entire arm ) left or right from top dead center ? and therefore adjusts azimuth? If so, that would be a fine point for me. I'd be happy just to get this arm to be decently set up. I've seen several challenges so far and foresee more ahead! This is not an easy project. But for me , most projects turn out to be challenging the limits of my abilities
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ok, read some of the thread again and see that the thread ideally should be 'attached' to the top magnet by a knot... and through a tiny center drilled hole
......the problem I have is that the predrilled hole in my magnets are too large for a knot of any kind ......unless I make my own small washer and drill a tiny hole in it..... is all i can think of at the moment if I decide to try and use the knot method
The top thread point however has no magnet or knot so that must be a different attach method... I need to figure that out as well. Back to reading. I recall seeing that detail before
......the problem I have is that the predrilled hole in my magnets are too large for a knot of any kind ......unless I make my own small washer and drill a tiny hole in it..... is all i can think of at the moment if I decide to try and use the knot method
The top thread point however has no magnet or knot so that must be a different attach method... I need to figure that out as well. Back to reading. I recall seeing that detail before
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Id like to know, If I make a thin brass 'washer' and glue it to the underside of the upper magnet, so I can drill a tiny hole in it to accept a tied knot, will this brass interfere with the magnets' function? .....to be clear, this washer would be between the two magnets.....
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regarding the top attach point and antiskate. I now understand what should be done. on page 57 there is a good pic of the 'grub screw' and antiskate wheel. The two turn independent of one another and I need to drill a small hole in the grub screw to accept the thread and knot.....
so I just need to find a solution for the bottom thread attach method....I will search for pic of your arm zeonrider. Im currently going through the earlier thread and gathering frank's posts in particular into one word document that i will then study...
ok so I see your pic but its not clear as to whether there is a washer under that magnet or not and so my question is still out there
http://postimg.org/image/dj53ybbo1/
so I just need to find a solution for the bottom thread attach method....I will search for pic of your arm zeonrider. Im currently going through the earlier thread and gathering frank's posts in particular into one word document that i will then study...
ok so I see your pic but its not clear as to whether there is a washer under that magnet or not and so my question is still out there
http://postimg.org/image/dj53ybbo1/
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Hi all,
I spent last past 6 month tryng to setting up my turntable, I like how it sound, by the way I have some problem with ground loops.
I twisted all 4 3avg cardas calbles together, maybe this is the real peoblem that cause a little but annoyng groun loop.
So, should I twist every way and then again twis together or what?
I also connect the aluminium head shell to the pipe with the upper magnet housing with a piece of copper, but I've not connect the pipe with the 5th ground cable like some people did.
So, wich is the correct method to twist and connect properly the stylus to the rca connectors ?
Thanks to all people especially to Sir Frank Schroeder for the support.
Luigi
I spent last past 6 month tryng to setting up my turntable, I like how it sound, by the way I have some problem with ground loops.
I twisted all 4 3avg cardas calbles together, maybe this is the real peoblem that cause a little but annoyng groun loop.
So, should I twist every way and then again twis together or what?
I also connect the aluminium head shell to the pipe with the upper magnet housing with a piece of copper, but I've not connect the pipe with the 5th ground cable like some people did.
So, wich is the correct method to twist and connect properly the stylus to the rca connectors ?
Thanks to all people especially to Sir Frank Schroeder for the support.
Luigi