Covered Planars Part 1 - Imgur
A selection of my finished full range planars, using neo and ferrite magnets. These range from 17Hz to 20KHz.
A selection of my finished full range planars, using neo and ferrite magnets. These range from 17Hz to 20KHz.
Planars
Bandsei,
I salute you--you ARE an artist, Bandsei!! Your quality of work is....artistic! And I wont be alone if I say that I envy your workshop and your work! Congrats! Congrats! Congrats!!!
Now one request--again, I suppose I am not alone in this.
As soon as you've done some critical listening and evaluation, do think of posting a FULL, step by step tutorial that would benefit a lot of us--newbies as well as those who have been following the thread from the sidelines till now, but who lacked the confidence to jump in at the deep end.
Of course, availability of parts is a headache often; still when you give us the advantage of your experience and judgment, it will be easier for us to decide on suitable alternatives. No, I am not advocating the abolition of the thrill of learning by doing; rather, it would benefit all if we pool our experience and expertise so that a larger number of our fraternity can share the fruits of our collective labours and collective wisdom.
Wishing all success to you, Sir. I am hoping you will soon be able to 'tame' your tapered new design. It looks so 'logically correct'; dont abandon it too soon. Eagerly awaiting developments.
Bandsei,
I salute you--you ARE an artist, Bandsei!! Your quality of work is....artistic! And I wont be alone if I say that I envy your workshop and your work! Congrats! Congrats! Congrats!!!
Now one request--again, I suppose I am not alone in this.
As soon as you've done some critical listening and evaluation, do think of posting a FULL, step by step tutorial that would benefit a lot of us--newbies as well as those who have been following the thread from the sidelines till now, but who lacked the confidence to jump in at the deep end.
Of course, availability of parts is a headache often; still when you give us the advantage of your experience and judgment, it will be easier for us to decide on suitable alternatives. No, I am not advocating the abolition of the thrill of learning by doing; rather, it would benefit all if we pool our experience and expertise so that a larger number of our fraternity can share the fruits of our collective labours and collective wisdom.
Wishing all success to you, Sir. I am hoping you will soon be able to 'tame' your tapered new design. It looks so 'logically correct'; dont abandon it too soon. Eagerly awaiting developments.
Hi båndsai
Looks really impressive
Looks like you have moved away from Micropor tape, and are using some plastic as basis for the membrane. Is it Mylar?? And how thick?
Would guess this has improved the highs ...
The alu, you are using, do you still cut that as one long serpentine first, before gluing it to the membrane?
Are you using the type with paper backing or just plain alu? ... how thick is the alu?
Kind regards Baldin
PS. Where in DK do you live .... would love to hear the speakers
Looks really impressive
Looks like you have moved away from Micropor tape, and are using some plastic as basis for the membrane. Is it Mylar?? And how thick?
Would guess this has improved the highs ...
The alu, you are using, do you still cut that as one long serpentine first, before gluing it to the membrane?
Are you using the type with paper backing or just plain alu? ... how thick is the alu?
Kind regards Baldin
PS. Where in DK do you live .... would love to hear the speakers
Hi båndsai,
i admire your style of working too ...
If you mind telling us: Can you describe what it is you do
not like with the tapered one ?
Have you tried driving the tapered one with your
"old style" magnet and conductor set ?
That implies the question if "whole area driving" must be
an advantage necessarily.
Kind Regards
i admire your style of working too ...
If you mind telling us: Can you describe what it is you do
not like with the tapered one ?
Have you tried driving the tapered one with your
"old style" magnet and conductor set ?
That implies the question if "whole area driving" must be
an advantage necessarily.
Kind Regards
Here are the rest of my planar pictures that I have finally managed to get uploaded.
Covered Planars Part 2 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 3 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 4 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 5 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 6 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 7 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 2 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 3 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 4 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 5 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 6 - Imgur
Covered Planars Part 7 - Imgur
Here is a picture that shows how i remowe the paper that is on my alufolie.It only needs some dischwasher water to soften it up.
I have tried different materials for the membrane: mylar,PVDC polyvinylidenclorid,LDPE polyethylene.And i like PVDC best.It is app.10my and my alufoil without the paper 7my.
Planars
Bandsei,
Please show us some closeups of the foil mounting and the magnet structure etc so that we can pick up your technique. I am still not fully clear about your foil fabrication techniques.
Do include comments about the new unit, the finer points about the spacings, how it sounds etc.
Keep up the great work!
Sincerely.
Bandsei,
Please show us some closeups of the foil mounting and the magnet structure etc so that we can pick up your technique. I am still not fully clear about your foil fabrication techniques.
Do include comments about the new unit, the finer points about the spacings, how it sounds etc.
Keep up the great work!
Sincerely.
Here is a closeup of a membrame.
I am not sure wich planarspeaker is the best .When i know it i would like to show in details how its made.
This is from the one above.And it have app. +9db. from 5khz.It sounds impressive with a subwoofer.But maybee my latest are more correct ballanced.
I live in Odense sv.Send me a PM. Baldin, if you are interested.
Hi Båndsei
Odense ... well that's not too far (I live in CPH). Yes indeed, I'll get back to you Thanks.
I have now also read, skimmed, through the danish pages on HIFI4ALL.dk .... just super great .... man you must have spent a lot of hours
A couple of thoughts:
1. I basically think you have to chose between a loose membrane (like a real ribbon) or a membrane which is tightly stretched on all sides. The last is not really easy or possible if you want to bend the membrane as well.
2. If you want it to go down to say 100 Hz the membrane needs to be fastened on al sides ... otherwise you will loose a lot og bass outphasing on the sides of the membrane.
3. If you g for a membrane which is supported on all sides (I would), you really need to be very very carefull when stretching the membrane in place, otherwise you are sure to make a speaker that will rattle ... Take a look at some of the Apogee patetns. They used a very elaborate system to stretch and tune the membrane ... but there are easiers ways
4. on the picture in post #95 I dont thing the outer tracks adds to a positive drive of the membrane. The magnet field will only be effective between the rows of magnets, which must be of alternating polarity N S N S N. They of course serve as return paths i guess, but they will add weight to the membrane. So I would run some thick cable away from the membrane to serve as return path instead.
Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing
Beat regards Baldin
Odense ... well that's not too far (I live in CPH). Yes indeed, I'll get back to you
Thanks.I have now also read, skimmed, through the danish pages on HIFI4ALL.dk .... just super great .... man you must have spent a lot of hours
A couple of thoughts:
1. I basically think you have to chose between a loose membrane (like a real ribbon) or a membrane which is tightly stretched on all sides. The last is not really easy or possible if you want to bend the membrane as well.
2. If you want it to go down to say 100 Hz the membrane needs to be fastened on al sides ... otherwise you will loose a lot og bass outphasing on the sides of the membrane.
3. If you g for a membrane which is supported on all sides (I would), you really need to be very very carefull when stretching the membrane in place, otherwise you are sure to make a speaker that will rattle ... Take a look at some of the Apogee patetns. They used a very elaborate system to stretch and tune the membrane ... but there are easiers ways
4. on the picture in post #95 I dont thing the outer tracks adds to a positive drive of the membrane. The magnet field will only be effective between the rows of magnets, which must be of alternating polarity N S N S N. They of course serve as return paths i guess, but they will add weight to the membrane. So I would run some thick cable away from the membrane to serve as return path instead.
Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing
Beat regards Baldin
there might be sidewards movement as well
hard to say what that will do
to keep the ineffective area small we could use small magnets, like 1/4"
but they are really weak compared to bigger ones
push-pull magnets might help on that
but then we are approaching a 2way, again
Makes one wonder how a big AMT "ribbon" would work
I have left the idea of curved panels as they can´t be streched to prevent rattle.I don´t use mylar,as it tends to tattle more than PVDC. I use rubber under the membranes sides to prevent rattle as well.There is a magnetfield at the outher traks as well ,but it´s weaker.I have no problems with sensivity at all.My gess is 90 db,
I am right now building a pair of speakers for the living room. It´s Siegfrieds Pluto model.It has a vertical mounted bas/midrange speaker and sounds alike planars.
I still build planarspeakers for my work/listening room.At the picture above the magnets are forced together.I tend to try this on my faorite model to see if the more homogen field could bring more bas/mid,or maybe less "tweeter" or both.My FEMM simm. shows that polarity in the gaps are rewersed.I think this can prevent the membrane from moving synkrone.
Thank you for all the comments.
Bernt "Båndsei".
I am right now building a pair of speakers for the living room. It´s Siegfrieds Pluto model.It has a vertical mounted bas/midrange speaker and sounds alike planars.
I still build planarspeakers for my work/listening room.At the picture above the magnets are forced together.I tend to try this on my faorite model to see if the more homogen field could bring more bas/mid,or maybe less "tweeter" or both.My FEMM simm. shows that polarity in the gaps are rewersed.I think this can prevent the membrane from moving synkrone.
Thank you for all the comments.
Bernt "Båndsei".
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Makes one wonder how a big AMT "ribbon" would work
I'm rather sure, that you can't make an AMT work much lower than 1k ..... I'm not so sure exactly why that is, but it does have very different physics ...
Take a look at the freq response for a small unit and compare to one of the rather big ones ... the small will roll of at 2 k and the larger at 1 k .....
That's a pitty thought, because the distortion levels seems much lower (in general) than for planars (and especially compared to domes etc.) ..... have seen a lot of test in the german Hobby HIFI magazin lately. Especiallt the Mundorf units have just much lower distortion compared to e.g. some of the best ScanSpeak units!!!
But making membranes for an AMT is even harder than for a planar
It would ofcourse be nice if you could achieve a ruler flat response without any EQ help. But if you are usin a digital eq anyway, this is maybe not so important.
I would be more concerned about dips an peaks. These will indicate brakeup and will impare the sound.
Try to do a waterfall plot. Her you will see break ups quite easily. Break up must be dampened away. Also remember that peaks is much worse than dips.
If you play a single tone, up through the frequencies, you will also be able to determine any rattle. Rattle will be seen on a scope/spectrum analyser, as a lot of distortion.
When rattle and peaks/break up is handled, you can eq the rest.
(Or that is at least what I'm thinking. Have only done some experiments on planer ... a lot less than you
)
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